Fuel Injector Leaks, '86 240

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DL152279546231

Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel
injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak
actually was but in my probing aroud I wiggled the injector around and the leak
stopped. Now, a cold spell has hit us and I have a leak again. I have already
tried turning the injector to see if the leak would stop, don't think it will.
What do I need to replace? and how?

My parts store said they have Bosch seals for about $1.20 ea. but also sell a
"kit" for $4.50 each cylinder (I don't know what it could contain other than 2
seals) and the fuel injector which I am not sure I need cost about $60 as I
recall from pricing them last year. Anyone have a similar experience?

thanks
-Anthony
Memphis TN
 
DL152279546231 said:
Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel
injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak
actually was but in my probing aroud I wiggled the injector around and the leak
stopped. Now, a cold spell has hit us and I have a leak again. I have already
tried turning the injector to see if the leak would stop, don't think it will.
What do I need to replace? and how?

My parts store said they have Bosch seals for about $1.20 ea. but also sell a
"kit" for $4.50 each cylinder (I don't know what it could contain other than 2
seals) and the fuel injector which I am not sure I need cost about $60 as I
recall from pricing them last year. Anyone have a similar experience?

thanks
-Anthony
Memphis TN
Click to expand...
You haven't disclosed why you think you have leak? Is it stumbling the
engine? smelling of unburnt gas? or then what?

Dan
88 245 dl 240,000klms
87 244 dl 196,000klms
 
Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel
injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak
actually was but in my probing around I wiggled the injector around and the
leak
stopped. Now, a cold spell has hit us and I have a leak again. I have already
tried turning the injector to see if the leak would stop, don't think it
will.
What do I need to replace? and how?
Click to expand...

My '71 1800E leaked gas where the neoprene hose that went from the gas
manifold to the injectors was sealed. The factory installed clamps
didn't work. They had to be cut off and replaced. I ended up
experimenting with about a dozen different brands of neoprene hose and
different hose clamps. The problem was sealing to the injectors. The
seal to the manifold was easy. I ended up tightening the hose clamps so
hard that they were extruding neoprene through the little screw thread
holes in the stainless steel band. The gas pressure was high enough
that sealing was a problem. It took constant surveillance and
tightening to keep it sealed.
 
You haven't disclosed why you think you have leak? Is it stumbling the
engine? smelling of unburnt gas? or then what?

Dan
88 245 dl 240,000klms
87 244 dl 196,000klms
Click to expand...

Actually, last year I was under the hood while jumping off another car, I
thought I had been smelling fuel but assumes it was exhaust. I just happened to
look at the injector where it goes into the (manifold?) and there was a pool of
gas sitting there...

This year, I smelled gas and there was indeed a leak in the same area...

I have about decided it is actually the injector leaking... weird to me it
stops leaking when warmed...

Anthony
Memphis TN
 
I think the 240 does not have this problem as the injectors appear to be
connected directly to the fuel rail and then into the manifold with seals at
both ends...

Mine could be the injector itself leaking, the top seal, bottom seal or
combination. I have just about decided to replace the injector and ALL 8
injector seals as I have heard if you disturb them they will leak

Anthony
Memphis TN
 
I think the 240 does not have this problem as the injectors appear to be
connected directly to the fuel rail and then into the manifold with seals at
both ends...
Click to expand...

I may have used the wrong term. The injectors had neoprene tubing
fastened to the top. This tubing connected to a metal tube that was
part of a loop of metal tubing (fuel rail or manifold) that circulated
the fuel from the fuel pump to all injectors and back to a pressure
relief valve that dumped it back into the fuel tank. The leaks were
between the injectors and the neoprene tubing that was fastened to the
injectors at the factory with a heavy crimp type clamp. I had to grind
off the factory clamp to replace the tubing.
 
Last year during cool weather I developed a leak (I think) where the fuel
injector goes into the (manifold?) I never could quite see where the leak
actually was but in my probing aroud I wiggled the injector around and the leak
stopped. Now, a cold spell has hit us and I have a leak again. I have already
tried turning the injector to see if the leak would stop, don't think it will.
What do I need to replace? and how?

My parts store said they have Bosch seals for about $1.20 ea. but also sell a
"kit" for $4.50 each cylinder (I don't know what it could contain other than 2
seals) and the fuel injector which I am not sure I need cost about $60 as I
recall from pricing them last year. Anyone have a similar experience?

thanks
-Anthony
Memphis TN
Click to expand...
You can get replacement seals for the tops of the injectors where they
seat into the fuel rail. Remove the two 6mm screws (10mm wrench) from
the brackets on the manifold. Remove the slide on clips from the
injectors. Replace the top seals. Shake out the fuel rail to minimize
the gas in the rail. Lube the seals with petroleum jelly and install
into the fuel rail. Install the clips. Lube the tip seals and reinstall
the rail and injectors back into the manifold as an assembly. Replace
the two screws holding the fuel rail in place. Keep the ground wires in
their original positions at opposite ends of the rail. IIRC the wires at
the back are electrical grounds and the one at the front is a signal
ground.

Bob
 
My big question is can the injector itself leak and if so why is it only
leaking cold? Hot there is no leak. Does this sound like a leaking injector or
seal?
 
Stephen,

As you've discovered, the high pressure fuel hose from the fuel rail to the
injector, along with the injector seals, are regular wear/replace items. It
seems the heat in those older engines are a little harsher. On my '70
1800E, these items get replaced every 2 years, I think 3 years is pushing
it. Everyone I know replaced the hose the same way you did - cut/grind the
old factory crimp off, install new 5mm high pressure fuel hose, and a heater
hose clamp on both ends. You mention tightening so hard that the hose
extruded through the clamp threads. Many others with our same model have
recommended a different style of hose clamp, as they discovered that your
style shortened the life expectancy of the hose, because it actually slices
into the rubber, and becomes the pinpoint location of a premature leak. For
a picture of the recommended type of clamp, look at Figure 2 in this link.
Some people say they have a hard time finding this type, or it costs more,
but I've always found them at my local pepboys, autozone, etc.

http://www.roberts.ezpublishing.com/croberts/hose.htm
 
It's possible that it is the injector, but more likely that the seal is
expanding and contracting under temperature change and allowing a leak when
contracted/cold.
 
Pat said:
It's possible that it is the injector, but more likely that the seal is
expanding and contracting under temperature change and allowing a leak when
contracted/cold.



injector or
Click to expand...
maybe the injector is being told how much gas to give due to temperature
and the appropriate sensor supposedly telling the computer what the true
temperature is, is/has failing/failed? On top of seals being in need of
replacement, why not re & re fuel rails, replace all o-rings /seals and
observe the engine's performance then decide if any/all injectors are
really necessary? I think the injectors are very long lasting in these
Volvo car models, Do you agree fellow posters?

If a coil had a weaker than normal output could that weaken the spark
enough to cause rough idle and bad emissions from the tail pipe? I had
exactly that with a GM car replaced the 6 pack distributor-less style
coils and everything went back to normal (for a GM LOL)It still
hesitates on accelerating, so typical of the GM Brand, and oddly enough
it begins this phase shortly after any warranty would cover the repairs
for such problems.
I guess they know when to have parts begin to expire and that way they
can pay out less warranty claims. There is madness in their methods?
Well I tink so. LOL
 
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