happy 89' 240 owner from australia

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snoopy42

Hi everyone,

I bought an 89 240 sedan, wow what a car!!! :)

its done just over 300000k's and drives like a dream.

i would like to know what the average fuel consuption is for a 240 with a
b230f motor/auto. at the moment i am getting about 400k's for about 42ltrs,
is this normal for mixed hiway and suburban driving?

i have cleanded the throatle body.

new plugs and leads.

new air cleaner element.

is there anything else i should do, maybe use premium ulp?

thanks in advance
snoopy :)
 
I have the same car and same kilometrage. I get 460 kilometers to a full
tank. (45ltr) when using the cruise control. Slightly less 400 when not
using cruise.
 
i paid $3500, its in very good nic, new tyres, very good trim, paints good,
probabably had a squirk of paint or 2, but looks nice, a/c works, drives so
well . . . all i need is a hat now :)
 
what sort of cruise control do you have, and why is the consumption better
with the cruise control?
 
i would like to know what the average fuel consuption is for a 240 with a
b230f motor/auto. at the moment i am getting about 400k's for about
42ltrs, is this normal for mixed hiway and suburban driving?

My car gets between 8 - 13L per 100Kms. If I get 10-11 with "normal" driving
then I am happy. Lower figures are when doing longer trips.
I would say you are getting about what I would expect for a reasonable
driver. My car has a few mods and tends to be driven very hard.

is there anything else i should do, maybe use premium ulp?

Flame trap. ALWAYS use Volvo or directly equivalent filters (Mahn?) I've
tried both Ryco and other assorted "quality" filters and the all have issue
with the anti drain back valve. It's a well known "issue". I run premium. My
car hates the "oxygenated" fuels. Optimax, Vortex. Best bet for me is BP
premium.


AJS
 
I don't know if it's a regional variance but my 240 (1983) has a 60L
tank. The car was built in Sweden and sold in the pacific northwest US
somewhere (Washington State I believe).

blurp
 
My 87 240 (205,000kms) gets about 400kms on about 40L. This is a mix
of highway and city driving. I've tried BP Premium but haven't noticed
a difference in performance or fuel economy.

Han.
 
blurp said:
I don't know if it's a regional variance but my 240 (1983) has a 60L
tank. The car was built in Sweden and sold in the pacific northwest US
somewhere (Washington State I believe).

blurp

Mine has a 60 litre tank as well.
244 GL, 1981 in .au :)
 
snoopy42 said:
i paid $3500, its in very good nic, new tyres, very good trim, paints good,
probabably had a squirk of paint or 2, but looks nice, a/c works, drives so
well . . . all i need is a hat now :)

Bit of a contrast to the '88 I just bought for AU$200. :-)

Very straight body but faded paint, an engine that allegedly uses lots of
oil (but didn't on the drive home) and a bit of trim damage in the
interior. A very nice straight body, though. Looks to be totally rust
free but I'll find out for sure when I pull it apart...

Should be a good new home for the 350 chev, etc. that are currently in my
'80 264GLE. :-)
 
what do i do with the flame trap, and what is a anti drain back valve??? is
that something to do with the air cleaner element?
 
snoopy42 said:
what do i do with the flame trap, and what is a anti drain back valve???
is that something to do with the air cleaner element?

It's in the oil filter. Helps keep residual oil in the filter to stop the
engine running dry for the initial second or two.
Flame trap is a small plastic part with holes in it for the crankcase
vapours to pass through. The idea being that if there is a fire ball in the
crankcase venting system it will break the fire front up and extinguish the
fire there by stopping a blown seal or two and a fire. It is a "dirty" part
and when it gets blocked you get high sump pressure which can cause a number
of issues. Including blowing the rear engine seals. It's a cheap part and
can normally be kept clean with a small amount of maintenance. I bought
several years ago and have only used two of them. IF it get's really dirty
or messed up replace it. Also replace at the first sigh the plastic is
ageing. It IS a bastard to get to it as it's right under the manifold. Once
you get the hang of it you will be fine. There are a few good Volvo web
forums which you should look at for more detailed information.
http://brickboard.com/ is one BUT there are a few very arrogant and idiotic
people. If you run across one don't be turned off of them. Not everyone who
claims to know something does. FYI I'm not talking about anyone who posts in
here :) You should also consider buying a decent manual if you wish to
maintain your own car.


AJS
 
Here's some quick info on flametrap maintainance:


--







http://freevision.org/michael/index.html

There really needs to be a weekly FAQ posted here about the flame

trap. On early nonturbo (the turbo doesn't have one) fours, it is

located between the third and fourth branches of the intake manifold, a

bit below the manifold. On '88 and later models, it is located in about

the same place, but is a bit higher - a little above the manifold. It's

a plastic "Y" or "T" - like junction, containing a plastic screen (I

believe the turbo has the junction only). While the screen can be

cleaned and reused, it is much easier to replace the whole unit - it's

cheap. The two large hoses that connect to the trap just need a quick

look to be sure they aren't blocked with gunk, while the small vacuum

hose (that runs from the small (and fragile) plastic nipple on the trap

to a small brass nipple on the intake manifold) should be replaced, or

at least checked carefully for free airflow. The brass nipple should be

unscrewed from the manifold, cleaned out, and replaced. The job takes

from 45 to 90 minutes the first time, but should be much easier and

quicker once you've done it once.

--







"Against ignorance, the Dogs themselves contend in vain."
 
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