I killed my wife's Volvo (was Fault Code Question)

[Tim McNamara]

Chapter 16 in "Tales of a Hamfist"

Well, it finally being warm enough to het under the hood of my wife's
1993 Volvo 245, I decided to have at the problem causing the check
engine light. I checked the codes again- 3-2-2 and 1-1-3. It ran fine.
I unplugged and replugged the AMM plug the requisite 10 times. Took it
for a drive, it ran fine (except there is a separate issue to discuss
sometime). Tried the Seras auto department for contact cleaner and
dielectric grease. No go. Went home and checked the codes again. This
time no "check engine" light. Still got the 3-2-2 but not the 1-1-3.
So far so good.

Ah, if only I'd have left well enough alone. But I didn't. Dang.

Looking at the AMM plug again, I thought to myself, "you know, that does
look a little corroded in there." So I sticks in a metal probe in the
first socket to try to clean it. Unfortunately the ignition key was
still in the "on" position (did I mention "hamfist?"). A little puff of
smoke and some heat in the probe rewards me for my troubles. Uh-oh. I
fried something. There's a bit of a fried smell inside the car, too. I
don't see any blown fuses.

Now the car don't start. Turns over nice, but it don't start. And
interesting to say, the "Check Engine" light doesn't come on when I turn
the key to (attempt to) start the car.

So. What did I **** up? And how do I fix it? Or do I just tow it over
to my usual mechanic (who is fortunately four blocks away) and let
someone who knows WTF they are doing take care of it?

D'oh! My wife is not pleased with Tim, o no, precious, not at all
pleased.

 

[James Sweet]

Chapter 16 in "Tales of a Hamfist"

Well, it finally being warm enough to het under the hood of my wife's
1993 Volvo 245, I decided to have at the problem causing the check
engine light. I checked the codes again- 3-2-2 and 1-1-3. It ran fine.
I unplugged and replugged the AMM plug the requisite 10 times. Took it
for a drive, it ran fine (except there is a separate issue to discuss
sometime). Tried the Seras auto department for contact cleaner and
dielectric grease. No go. Went home and checked the codes again. This
time no "check engine" light. Still got the 3-2-2 but not the 1-1-3.
So far so good.

Ah, if only I'd have left well enough alone. But I didn't. Dang.

Looking at the AMM plug again, I thought to myself, "you know, that does
look a little corroded in there." So I sticks in a metal probe in the
first socket to try to clean it. Unfortunately the ignition key was
still in the "on" position (did I mention "hamfist?"). A little puff of
smoke and some heat in the probe rewards me for my troubles. Uh-oh. I
fried something. There's a bit of a fried smell inside the car, too. I
don't see any blown fuses.

Now the car don't start. Turns over nice, but it don't start. And
interesting to say, the "Check Engine" light doesn't come on when I turn
the key to (attempt to) start the car.

So. What did I **** up? And how do I fix it? Or do I just tow it over
to my usual mechanic (who is fortunately four blocks away) and let
someone who knows WTF they are doing take care of it?

D'oh! My wife is not pleased with Tim, o no, precious, not at all
pleased.

My guess is you blew up the ECU. It's in the right-hand side footwell
behind the panel just in front of the door. It's a silver box that says
JetTronic on it, pull it out and sniff it, if it smells like burning
electronics you found the problem. At that point you can start calling
junkyards and try to locate a replacement, it needs to be the same
version so I think '90-'93 240 or 740 of around the same year. Someone
else can confirm that part though as it's newer than anything I have.

 

[Michael Pardee]

Chapter 16 in "Tales of a Hamfist"

Well, it finally being warm enough to het under the hood of my wife's
1993 Volvo 245, I decided to have at the problem causing the check
engine light. I checked the codes again- 3-2-2 and 1-1-3. It ran fine.
I unplugged and replugged the AMM plug the requisite 10 times. Took it
for a drive, it ran fine (except there is a separate issue to discuss
sometime). Tried the Seras auto department for contact cleaner and
dielectric grease. No go. Went home and checked the codes again. This
time no "check engine" light. Still got the 3-2-2 but not the 1-1-3.
So far so good.

Ah, if only I'd have left well enough alone. But I didn't. Dang.

Looking at the AMM plug again, I thought to myself, "you know, that does
look a little corroded in there." So I sticks in a metal probe in the
first socket to try to clean it. Unfortunately the ignition key was
still in the "on" position (did I mention "hamfist?"). A little puff of
smoke and some heat in the probe rewards me for my troubles. Uh-oh. I
fried something. There's a bit of a fried smell inside the car, too. I
don't see any blown fuses.

Now the car don't start. Turns over nice, but it don't start. And
interesting to say, the "Check Engine" light doesn't come on when I turn
the key to (attempt to) start the car.

So. What did I **** up? And how do I fix it? Or do I just tow it over
to my usual mechanic (who is fortunately four blocks away) and let
someone who knows WTF they are doing take care of it?

D'oh! My wife is not pleased with Tim, o no, precious, not at all
pleased.

I agree with James - likely to be the ECU. Expect to pay about $100 US for a
replacement with a 30 day warranty at a they-pull-it wrecking yard. If it
works 30 days it should work forever.

However, if the Check Engine light doesn't come on when you first turn the
ignition switch to the "run" position (that sounds like what you are saying)
I'd investigate whether the ECU is getting power. I suspect you have
carefully checked the fuses, but the power may come from a fuse that is not
in the fuse block. Anybody with a 240 diagram help poor Tim out with that
part?

Mike

 

[Tim McNamara]

I agree with James - likely to be the ECU. Expect to pay about $100
US for a replacement with a 30 day warranty at a they-pull-it
wrecking yard. If it works 30 days it should work forever.

However, if the Check Engine light doesn't come on when you first
turn the ignition switch to the "run" position (that sounds like what
you are saying) I'd investigate whether the ECU is getting power. I
suspect you have carefully checked the fuses, but the power may come
from a fuse that is not in the fuse block. Anybody with a 240 diagram
help poor Tim out with that part?

James and Michael-

Thank you so much for your nearly instantaneous responses. I went out
to the car and pulled the kick panel to look at the ECU. It smelled
like... nothing. Huh.

So then I looked at the fuse block again, as per Michael's suggestion.
Every fuse was fine. Huh. Then I noticed at the bottom of the fuse
cover panel it said something about four other fuses- A/C, ignition,
main and something else. That jogged my memory and I recalled that my
wife's car has a block of fuses next to the battery. I looked in there
and the first two fuses were fine, but the main (30A) was blown. Aha!
I pulled the other ones to check them, and found that the A/C fuse and
the one next to it were fine, but the ignition (60A) was charred at the
base. I replaced the ignition and the main fuses and the car starts.
My wife is happy with me again. Whew! Let's hear it for the gal or guy
that invented the fuse.

None of this has solved the 3-2-2 code that started all this, but the
"Check Engine" light now comes up as it should when starting and then
goes off as it should. How big a deal is the AMM burnoff? Of course, I
forgot to buy contact cleaner and dielectric grease when I was at the
auto parts store buying fuses. D'oh! A hamfist *and* forgetful!

Thanks again. This newsgroup rocks.

 

[Glenn]

James and Michael-

Thank you so much for your nearly instantaneous responses. I went out
to the car and pulled the kick panel to look at the ECU. It smelled
like... nothing. Huh.

So then I looked at the fuse block again, as per Michael's suggestion.
Every fuse was fine. Huh. Then I noticed at the bottom of the fuse
cover panel it said something about four other fuses- A/C, ignition,
main and something else. That jogged my memory and I recalled that my
wife's car has a block of fuses next to the battery. I looked in there
and the first two fuses were fine, but the main (30A) was blown. Aha!
I pulled the other ones to check them, and found that the A/C fuse and
the one next to it were fine, but the ignition (60A) was charred at the
base. I replaced the ignition and the main fuses and the car starts.
My wife is happy with me again. Whew! Let's hear it for the gal or guy
that invented the fuse.

None of this has solved the 3-2-2 code that started all this, but the
"Check Engine" light now comes up as it should when starting and then
goes off as it should. How big a deal is the AMM burnoff? Of course, I
forgot to buy contact cleaner and dielectric grease when I was at the
auto parts store buying fuses. D'oh! A hamfist *and* forgetful!

Thanks again. This newsgroup rocks.

If I remember I will bring the code book home & enlighten you to what
322 exactly is & how to correct this code
Glenn K
Volvo Certified Technician
ASE Certified Technician

--
"*-344-*Never Forgotten"
Is for the New York City Firemen who lost their lives on September 11,2001.
The official count is 343, but there was also a volunteer who lost his life
aiding in the initial rescue efforts. And I will never forget them as
long as I live,
nor should any American.

 

[Tim McNamara]

None of this has solved the 3-2-2 code that started all this, but
the "Check Engine" light now comes up as it should when starting
and then goes off as it should. How big a deal is the AMM burnoff?
Of course, I forgot to buy contact cleaner and dielectric grease
when I was at the auto parts store buying fuses. D'oh! A hamfist
*and* forgetful!

If I remember I will bring the code book home & enlighten you to what
322 exactly is & how to correct this code[/QUOTE]

3-2-2 is the AMM burnoff code, indicating that the wire in the AMM isn't
being heated after the engine is shut off.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[John Horner]

None of this has solved the 3-2-2 code that started all this, but
the "Check Engine" light now comes up as it should when starting
and then goes off as it should. How big a deal is the AMM burnoff?
Of course, I forgot to buy contact cleaner and dielectric grease
when I was at the auto parts store buying fuses. D'oh! A hamfist
*and* forgetful!

If I remember I will bring the code book home & enlighten you to what
322 exactly is & how to correct this code

3-2-2 is the AMM burnoff code, indicating that the wire in the AMM isn't
being heated after the engine is shut off.

Any help is appreciated![/QUOTE]

The most likely thing is that the AMM has failed. Often the thermostat
in the air filter box which controls the heated input from the little
"stove" above the exhaust manifold fails in the hot position. Then the
AMM is ruined by always being fed hot air, and fuel economy suffers as
well.

John

 

[Tim McNamara]

The most likely thing is that the AMM has failed. Often the
thermostat in the air filter box which controls the heated input from
the little "stove" above the exhaust manifold fails in the hot
position. Then the AMM is ruined by always being fed hot air, and
fuel economy suffers as well.

That's certainly a possibility. The explanations I have found for the
3-2-2 code includes several possibilities, such as a broken wire in the
AMM wiring harness. The AMM is expensive but easy to replace. The
wiring harness is cheaper but harder to replace. Kind of a trade-off.

I have not investigated the airbox thermostat yet, but I know it's at
least two years old- since that's how long she has owned the car- but it
may well be 13 years old. It's been too cold to conveniently work on
the car. I should probably replace it just on general principle.

Thus far the check engine light remains off after clearing the two codes
(3-2-2 and 1-1-3). Driveability remains fine.