D
Doug Warner
One day, I noticed that the tailgate didn't lock when I locked the
rest of the doors, via remote, or key. So, I locked the tailgate with
my key.
Some time later, I noticed that the remote was NOT locking the doors.
I could unlock, but I had to lock it via the driver's door key, which
also locked all the other doors (except the tailgate). The spare
remote exhibited the same behavior, so the problem was in the car.
If I used the key in the driver's door, every other door except the
tailgate would lock and unlock with it.
Some initial troubleshooting revealed that, if the tailgagte was
manually unlocked, then the remote would both lock, and unlock the
car.
I pulled the tailgate latch assy, and noticed that the seam of the
plastic motor housing was split open along the plunger side. (arrows
in this photo:
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/LockFull.jpg
I wish I had remembered to phoograph the innards, but the way is works
is that the motor (in the left side) via reductrion gears, drives a
coarse pitch that runs up the middle of the plunger.
The screw engages a sliding block that travels between the plunger
legs, and carries it up, or down via spring loaded detents. It
releases it's grip on the plunger at the end of it's travel in either
direction, so the key lock is free to move the plunger as well.
At the bottom of it's travel (unlocked), the plunger activates a
switch, that signals to the central locking relay that it's locked.
When it's up, an "unlocked" signal lead is grounded instead..
The casing was split along the plunger side, apparently keeping it
from actuating the switch properly. When unlocked, it was still
signalling the lock relay (which contains some logic) that the rear
door was locked, while the other doors were grounding the "unlocked"
signal. Receiving both "locked" and "unlocked" signals prevented the
locking relay from responding to the input from the remote receiver.
When the tailgate was unlocked, the relay still received mixed signals
in the opposite direction, but somehow, this didn't prevent it from
operating.
I tried gluing the housing with cyanoacrylic cement, but it split open
again on the first cycling of the remote. So, I re-glued it and
reinforced it with shortened staples sunk into the plastic with a
soldering iron, then secured with some more glue"
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/Stapled.jpg
I think that the motor had a bit of overrun, and when the drive block
ran into the stop, the remaining torque worked to split the casing
open.
It works fine now. And, I've finally removed the loose tailgate liner
so I can repair the clip anchor holes.
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Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
rest of the doors, via remote, or key. So, I locked the tailgate with
my key.
Some time later, I noticed that the remote was NOT locking the doors.
I could unlock, but I had to lock it via the driver's door key, which
also locked all the other doors (except the tailgate). The spare
remote exhibited the same behavior, so the problem was in the car.
If I used the key in the driver's door, every other door except the
tailgate would lock and unlock with it.
Some initial troubleshooting revealed that, if the tailgagte was
manually unlocked, then the remote would both lock, and unlock the
car.
I pulled the tailgate latch assy, and noticed that the seam of the
plastic motor housing was split open along the plunger side. (arrows
in this photo:
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/LockFull.jpg
I wish I had remembered to phoograph the innards, but the way is works
is that the motor (in the left side) via reductrion gears, drives a
coarse pitch that runs up the middle of the plunger.
The screw engages a sliding block that travels between the plunger
legs, and carries it up, or down via spring loaded detents. It
releases it's grip on the plunger at the end of it's travel in either
direction, so the key lock is free to move the plunger as well.
At the bottom of it's travel (unlocked), the plunger activates a
switch, that signals to the central locking relay that it's locked.
When it's up, an "unlocked" signal lead is grounded instead..
The casing was split along the plunger side, apparently keeping it
from actuating the switch properly. When unlocked, it was still
signalling the lock relay (which contains some logic) that the rear
door was locked, while the other doors were grounding the "unlocked"
signal. Receiving both "locked" and "unlocked" signals prevented the
locking relay from responding to the input from the remote receiver.
When the tailgate was unlocked, the relay still received mixed signals
in the opposite direction, but somehow, this didn't prevent it from
operating.
I tried gluing the housing with cyanoacrylic cement, but it split open
again on the first cycling of the remote. So, I re-glued it and
reinforced it with shortened staples sunk into the plastic with a
soldering iron, then secured with some more glue"
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/Stapled.jpg
I think that the motor had a bit of overrun, and when the drive block
ran into the stop, the remaining torque worked to split the casing
open.
It works fine now. And, I've finally removed the loose tailgate liner
so I can repair the clip anchor holes.
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
