Just seized my engine in my baby

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by JungleAcid, Jan 8, 2004.

  1. JungleAcid

    JungleAcid Guest

    88 740 Turbo. Water pump went, next day the engine seized. So the
    question is: what sort of engine am I looking for as a replacement?
    Does it have to be same year make and model, or is there latitude with
    these sort of things? The corollary-question is: anybody parting with
    what I need?

    Thanks.
     
    JungleAcid, Jan 8, 2004
    #1
  2. JungleAcid

    Mike F Guest

    Any engine from any 700/900 turbo will work (assuming you're in
    USA/Canada). It'll be easiest to use your manifolds/turbo as there are
    detail differences in various years, and even within the same year.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    NOTE: new address!!
    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jan 8, 2004
    #2
  3. JungleAcid

    Herman Guest

    well,......... you asked.............ha, ha, ha. ..... if the car is in
    good shape you can replace it with a "volvo" engine such as it had
    orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, you could have a V-8.
    I converted my Volvo with a Ford 5.0 H.O.+ T-5 transmission, from an '89
    Mustang, and it's been great. Fits without butchering the car and I
    could change it back to it's original B21FT without anyone being able to
    tell, but I won't ;-)
    Herman, '83 282 Ford 5.0 H.O. formerly 242 Turbo intercooled.
     
    Herman, Jan 8, 2004
    #3
  4. JungleAcid

    James Sweet Guest


    You need a B230FT, anything from an '85 740T to a '94 940T would work, but
    the '89 and newer engines are generally stronger than the originals, the '94
    is the best of the bunch, but all will perform equally in stock
    configuration. I can hook you up with an '87 B230FT core if you're near
    Seattle, needs a rebuild but it's not siezed, but your best bet to get the
    car running is probably to look for a junkyard and pull a good motor, again
    near Seattle I know where you can get a complete engine for $150.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 8, 2004
    #4
  5. hey jungle acid...i saw your posting in the
    volvo newsgroup re a replacement volvo engine...

    i am working on (way over boostin) a 1993 940t...
    i have been advised to look for a spare motor, in the event
    we "blow out" the current engine...we are runnin
    14 - 16 psi boost and "driving it like we stole it"...so
    far...so good...

    but, since i am not in a hurry now...i am casually shopping
    for a replacement turbo...i now have a b230ft...
    so, i would be looking for something that would "fit right in"...

    your advise would be appreciated, along with how much $ i should count
    on spending...i live right outside of boulder, co...


    thank you !!

    richard
    colorado
     
    ~^ beancounter ~^, Jan 8, 2004
    #5
  6. JungleAcid

    Marky Guest

    Or, if one were more bowtie-oriented, Jags That Run (jagsthatrun.com) has
    written books about smallblock swaps into Volvos (and Jags, Datsun Zs,
    Astro vans and S10s).
     
    Marky, Jan 9, 2004
    #6
  7. JungleAcid

    Herman Guest

    The Chevy small blocks require alot more "fitting". Problems with
    distributor clearance at firewall, tranny hump needs to be expanded
    etc., ...... Chevy parts are in abundance though.
    Herman '83 282 5.0 H.O. formerly 242 turbo intercooled.
     
    Herman, Jan 9, 2004
    #7
  8. JungleAcid

    Herman Guest

    The Chevy small blocks require alot more "fitting". Problems with
    distributor clearance at firewall, tranny hump needs to be expanded
    etc., ...... Chevy parts are in abundance though.
    Herman '83 282 5.0 H.O. formerly 242 turbo intercooled.
     
    Herman, Jan 9, 2004
    #8
  9. JungleAcid

    athol Guest

    SBC is a drop-in fit. That's with the big-cap Chev HEI
    dissy. It just needs to be a "short water pump" chev.
    (shorter pump, shorter crank pulley and different
    accessory brackets - basically the pre-'70 style.)

    I bent the flange across the firewall to make sure that
    the cap would go on and off, but it was not really needed.
    No trans tunnel mods. The only body mod was that I used a
    V8 chev down-flow radiator and had to bash the top of the
    front body crossmember down to get the radiator to fit. A
    late model V8 cross-flow radiator wouldn't need that - I
    just used as many existing parts as possible.

    New crossmember bolted through the chassis rails ahead of the
    suspension crossmember to take the stock chev engine mounts.

    Stock chev '70s-'80s passenger car sump.

    Using a T350 auto, you just need to remember to trim the
    assembly lugs off the bellhousing before installing. I didn't
    know that, and had to cut one off in situ. Supposedly, I used
    the wrong gearbox crossmember. I used the V6 one that I had,
    with a small plate welded to the front of it to bolt the GM
    mount to. I've since read that if I'd used a 4-cyl
    crossmember, the GM mount would have bolted straight to the
    crossmember. Original Volvo auto shifter adapted to the T350
    by cutting and shortening the Volvo selector linkage rod and
    filing the hole in the Volvo lever to fit onto the T350.

    I think that the T700R4, 4L60, 4L60E bolt in without any trans
    tunnel mods, too. I remember seeing one with a T700R4 a few
    years ago. I don't know if T400 or 4L80E would fit without
    tunnel mods - I think they might.

    Tailshaft is a shortened GM item with a spicer rear weld yoke.

    Speedo cable is a GM item adapted to the Volvo speedo with a
    small turned brass bush.

    Power steering pump is the original GM Saginaw item from the
    Volvo V6, and has been mounted to the front of the Chev block
    using a new bracket.

    The only real hassle I had was with the exhaust. Chose the
    best cast iron manifolds I could get and then got the exhaust
    guy to fabricate an ugly engine pipe to suit. One of these
    years, I'll get a custom set of extractors made.

    The only accessory that I haven't re-fitted yet is the A/C
    compressor. I'll have to make new brackets for that, and will
    probably start on that in the next few months. I have the
    alternator high-mounted on the left side, so the V6's GM Delco
    A/C compressor will go back in its original position.
     
    athol, Jan 9, 2004
    #9
  10. I'd suggest a newer model. The car's pretty much a write-off at that
    age. A newer 940 or 850 turbo would be just right :)
     
    Joseph Oberlander, Jan 9, 2004
    #10
  11. JungleAcid

    James Sweet Guest

    A write off? Screw that, he could have it running for a few hundred dollars,
    '88 is a great year, I love my '87, if the engine ever dies I won't hesitate
    to have it rebuilt.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 9, 2004
    #11
  12. A *good* rebuild last I checked was about $1200. Given the age of most of
    the subsystems on the car, why NOT get a 940 turbo or a 850 turbo?
     
    Joseph Oberlander, Jan 9, 2004
    #12
  13. JungleAcid

    James Sweet Guest

    A good rebuild is closer to $2000, but he said the car was his baby, as is
    mine, and I know I wouldn't hesitate to have my engine rebuilt, the car is
    way too nice to junk. 940's are nice, but only available as automatics, the
    850's look nice but I dislike the FWD.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 9, 2004
    #13
  14. Are you sure? I remember seeing a manual as an option on a 940 at one time.
    Oh - I know of a place that will do a good rebuild for $1200 and give a 60K
    warranty on the work. Most places, though - yeah - they will charge you
    nearly the price of a new negine.
     
    Joseph Oberlander, Jan 9, 2004
    #14
  15. JungleAcid

    James Sweet Guest

    You could get a 900 series with a manual in Europe but not in the US.

    Is that with a new turbocharger though? That alone is around $800 for the
    Mitsubishi, if the engine needs rebuilding the turbo could likely use it as
    well. I've heard though that some places will replace the bearings and seals
    for considerably less than a remanufactured cartridge costs.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 9, 2004
    #15
  16. Ah. Correct memory. Wrong side of the pond. :)
    That would be with the old turbo. If his turbo is nearly worn out,
    it might be better to find another simmilar vehicle in better condition.
     
    Joseph Oberlander, Jan 10, 2004
    #16
  17. JungleAcid

    James Sweet Guest

    Are you trying to sell a 940 or what? He's made it clear he wants to repair
    his car, there's nothing wrong with a 740, if it's in decent shape there's
    no reason not to fix it, if it's not worth rebuilding the motor, then
    there's always the good used motor option, it could be on the road again for
    well under $500. If one is to rebuild an engine it would be silly not to
    have the turbo rebuilt as well, it's just sloppy work to put an old used
    turbo on a new motor.
     
    James Sweet, Jan 10, 2004
    #17
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