My 1990 Volvo 740 turbo

[Dozer]

Hello all,

Just been lurkng around this group for a little while now and was
hoping for some advice on my car. I have never been into buying a
brand new car and hate the idea of a car payment so I am currently
driving my 1990 740 turbo with 197,000 miles on the clock which I
purchased for $500 mainly because I felt I could get many more miles
out of it and the car is in overall nice shape. I was hoping to get
some advice on a couple of points:

The headliner is all torn up in this car and is making a mess out of
my otherwise nicely kept leather interior. I have seen the kits
available from IPD for a hundred dollars and was wondering if anyone
bought one and had it professionally installed( I have heard
horrorshows about the diy jobs on these) and wgat that ran them.

I failed my inspection last week because of tie rods, the station
said. I have seen them selling full tie rods and then just tie rod
ends. At what point should you replace the entire tie rod vs doing
just the tie rod ends?

My engine runs nice, mileage is about 20-14mpg. I am a little
concerned about a lifter knock in the motor. Anyone familiar with a
product they have used to quiet them down?

Thanks in advance for any advice, and happy motoring with these very
well built automobiles

 

[Stewart Hargrave]

Dozer wrote:

The headliner is all torn up in this car and is making a mess out of
my otherwise nicely kept leather interior. I have seen the kits
available from IPD for a hundred dollars and was wondering if anyone
bought one and had it professionally installed( I have heard
horrorshows about the diy jobs on these) and wgat that ran them.

Have a look at this to give you some idea of what's involved:
http://www.ipdusa.com/pdf/PI-240headliner700.pdf

I failed my inspection last week because of tie rods, the station
said. I have seen them selling full tie rods and then just tie rod
ends. At what point should you replace the entire tie rod vs doing
just the tie rod ends?

The tie rod (we call 'em track rods here) has a ball joint at each
end. The outer one is refered to as the track/tie rod end, and is
easily replacable without needing the rod to be removed - it unscrews
from the rod.

The inner joint is hidden in the rubber bellows, and is an integral
part of the rod. If this joint wears you must replace the rod.

If you are replacing the track rod, it usually makes sense to replace
the track rod end at the same time.


--

Stewart Hargrave


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

[Mike F]

Hello all,

Just been lurkng around this group for a little while now and was
hoping for some advice on my car. I have never been into buying a
brand new car and hate the idea of a car payment so I am currently
driving my 1990 740 turbo with 197,000 miles on the clock which I
purchased for $500 mainly because I felt I could get many more miles
out of it and the car is in overall nice shape. I was hoping to get
some advice on a couple of points:

The headliner is all torn up in this car and is making a mess out of
my otherwise nicely kept leather interior. I have seen the kits
available from IPD for a hundred dollars and was wondering if anyone
bought one and had it professionally installed( I have heard
horrorshows about the diy jobs on these) and wgat that ran them.

I failed my inspection last week because of tie rods, the station
said. I have seen them selling full tie rods and then just tie rod
ends. At what point should you replace the entire tie rod vs doing
just the tie rod ends?

My engine runs nice, mileage is about 20-14mpg. I am a little
concerned about a lifter knock in the motor. Anyone familiar with a
product they have used to quiet them down?

Thanks in advance for any advice, and happy motoring with these very
well built automobiles

Your car has solid lifters. Any products that claim to quiet lifters
are for hydraulic lifters only. If you have lifter noise, the valve
clearances can be adjusted with shims. Most commonly, what is thought
to be lifter noise is leaking exhaust manifold gaskets. Does the noise
get worse as engine load increases?

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

[Stewart Hargrave]

Mike F wrote:

Your car has solid lifters. Any products that claim to quiet lifters
are for hydraulic lifters only. If you have lifter noise, the valve
clearances can be adjusted with shims.

Under the buckets, on top of the valve stems, is a little rubber
doughnut (on top of the collets - I don't mean the oil seals). I've
always assumed that these were an attempt to quieten the valve noise.
But they don't seem to do a particulartly good job, they harden up
with age, and can make measuring the valve clearence a bit arbitrary.
--

Stewart Hargrave


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

[Mike F]

Under the buckets, on top of the valve stems, is a little rubber
doughnut (on top of the collets - I don't mean the oil seals). I've
always assumed that these were an attempt to quieten the valve noise.
But they don't seem to do a particulartly good job, they harden up
with age, and can make measuring the valve clearence a bit arbitrary.
--

Stewart Hargrave

For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

Yeah, I'm not sure what they're for, some call them oil seals, some say
they're to reduce tappet noise. I know that I've taken engines apart
that weren't burning oil or making noise that had those seals hard as a
rock and cracked, so they really don't seem to be that necessary. Of
course I'd never put a cylinder head back together without putting new
ones in...

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

NOTE: new address!!
Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

 

[John Robertson]

Hi I have a 1990 740 turbo sinister black .164 klm on it now approx 100.000
miles .Using synthetic oil in the tranny (auto)SYNTHETIC OIL in the engine
,it goes well very well with the wick turned up (the waste gate) it flies
..Upgraded the lights still 55 watts but plus 30 on high and plus 50 percent
better on low they cope well .other than that use the best fuel you can and
colder plugs .Where else can you get a car that's safe fast if need be and I
am getting 31 mpg on a trip but I do stick to the speed limits .The parts
are cheap if you check out your local Volvo club rather than pay for the
name Volvo .

 

[John Robertson]

DRAIN THE OIL NEW FILTER VOLVO ,put normal quality oil in run it rev it and
drain at 2000 miles then put in genuine synthetic another Volvo filter run
it and enjoy the difference well run a fuel cleaner after you clean the
throttle body .New plugs I use NGK .don't be afraid to rev it out a bit when
its warm Volvos love it .We have two an 88 Turbo + 90 Turbo THEY BOTH run
very well 230k and 168k.ENJOY