New California smog for older Volvo

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fred
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Fred

I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog check
two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I understand the
new California smog check requirement is tougher this year and, in
particular, on older cars. My Sond service light came on a few months ago
so now I need to reset it, but should I also replace the O2 sensor too,
wagon runs pretty good for an 84. I was wondering what you guys with older
Volvos need to do to past the recent California smog check.
 
Fred said:
I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog check
two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I understand the
new California smog check requirement is tougher this year and, in
particular, on older cars. My Sond service light came on a few months ago
so now I need to reset it, but should I also replace the O2 sensor too,
wagon runs pretty good for an 84. I was wondering what you guys with older
Volvos need to do to past the recent California smog check.
Click to expand...

Find a friendly test center and ask them if they would do a pre-test
on it (just meter it "unofficially") and let them tell you _IF_ it
would pass, and if not, how much it would cost to fix.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Randy said:
Find a friendly test center and ask them if they would do a pre-test
on it (just meter it "unofficially") and let them tell you _IF_ it
would pass, and if not, how much it would cost to fix.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...

Been there, done that. My last test was February. It passed after some
creative plumbing re the ICU. It's always been borderline, usually
within a point or two of max on NoX.
Many smog stations will do a pre-test for a nominal fee.
My '83 245 has been through several tests in the 9 years I've owned it.
First mistake was *not* getting a pre-test. It scored a GP (gross
polluter) which now forces me to go to a test only station.
The pre-test guy may not be thorough (the test only place will be hard
core) so some key points to watch for:
Be sure they check the gas cap (or buy a new one.) I had a perfectly
good passing score fail (and they charge you anyway, btw) because of a
leaky cap.

Be sure the vacuum lines and heat riser hoses are connected and in good
shape. (I got nicked once because the heat riser hose had slipped off.
Nope, they don't let you put it on, they fail you and take your money...
thank you, come again.)
Once, after a passing pre-test, drove 5 minutes to the test only place.
The test only guy noticed the vacuum line to the (Ignition Control
Unit?) was off. Of course it will pass with that unplugged. He hooked it
up (apparently they are allowed to reattach vacuum lines... wtf?) and
the motor pings to beat heck... and fails.

Be sure it passes pre-test with reasonable margins. If you're within
..02% of max on NoX, you can bet it will fail the real test. (no, all the
machines are not calibrated exactly the same.)
ymmv...
 
Clay said:
Been there, done that. My last test was February. It passed after some
creative plumbing re the ICU. It's always been borderline, usually
within a point or two of max on NoX.
Many smog stations will do a pre-test for a nominal fee.
My '83 245 has been through several tests in the 9 years I've owned it.
First mistake was *not* getting a pre-test. It scored a GP (gross
polluter) which now forces me to go to a test only station.
The pre-test guy may not be thorough (the test only place will be hard
core) so some key points to watch for:
Be sure they check the gas cap (or buy a new one.) I had a perfectly
good passing score fail (and they charge you anyway, btw) because of a
leaky cap.

Be sure the vacuum lines and heat riser hoses are connected and in good
shape. (I got nicked once because the heat riser hose had slipped off.
Nope, they don't let you put it on, they fail you and take your money...
thank you, come again.)
Once, after a passing pre-test, drove 5 minutes to the test only place.
The test only guy noticed the vacuum line to the (Ignition Control
Unit?) was off. Of course it will pass with that unplugged. He hooked it
up (apparently they are allowed to reattach vacuum lines... wtf?) and
the motor pings to beat heck... and fails.

Be sure it passes pre-test with reasonable margins. If you're within
.02% of max on NoX, you can bet it will fail the real test. (no, all the
machines are not calibrated exactly the same.)
ymmv...
Click to expand...

Further to the bottom part of this post, talking about the vacuum line
to the ignition control unit...
That vacuum line advances the timing at part load a lot, in an attempt
to improve fuel economy. This way the engine is always running at the
ragged edge of ping, which is great for NOx formation (i.e., not good).
Disconnecting this hose will not harm fuel economy enough to be
noticeable, but will reduce ping and NOx formation. Ironically, smog
centers don't like you to do this, even though it reduces emissions! I
put a ball bearing into the end of the hose before pushing it back onto
the vacuum advance on the ignition control unit, so it doesn't look like
anything needs to be reconnected - just make sure the ball fits tightly,
if vacuum gets in there and can't get out, then your timing will be so
far advanced it won't run well. The hose goes under the engine by the
crankshaft pulley, so there's lots of ways to inventively block this
vacuum connection.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
Mike F said:
Further to the bottom part of this post, talking about the vacuum line
to the ignition control unit...
That vacuum line advances the timing at part load a lot, in an attempt
to improve fuel economy. This way the engine is always running at the
ragged edge of ping, which is great for NOx formation (i.e., not good).
Disconnecting this hose will not harm fuel economy enough to be
noticeable, but will reduce ping and NOx formation. Ironically, smog
centers don't like you to do this, even though it reduces emissions! I
put a ball bearing into the end of the hose before pushing it back onto
the vacuum advance on the ignition control unit, so it doesn't look like
anything needs to be reconnected - just make sure the ball fits tightly,
if vacuum gets in there and can't get out, then your timing will be so
far advanced it won't run well. The hose goes under the engine by the
crankshaft pulley, so there's lots of ways to inventively block this
vacuum connection.
Click to expand...

Talking about the B23F and the B230F motors, the vac sensor in the ECU
was used from 1982 through 1988 on the Volvo/Chrysler ignition system.
It was evidently eliminated on the 1989 and later models with the
EZ-116K sustem.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Randy G. said:
Talking about the B23F and the B230F motors, the vac sensor in the ECU
was used from 1982 through 1988 on the Volvo/Chrysler ignition system.
It was evidently eliminated on the 1989 and later models with the
EZ-116K sustem.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...

You know, when I started typing I was going to mention that only applies
to 240s with the Chrysler type ignition, only non turbos. It's easy to
recognize by the ignition control unit mounted on the windshield washer
bottle support. Note this ignition was never used in the 7 series.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
 
You know, when I started typing I was going to mention that only applies
to 240s with the Chrysler type ignition, only non turbos. It's easy to
recognize by the ignition control unit mounted on the windshield washer
bottle support. Note this ignition was never used in the 7 series.
Click to expand...


Don't be too impressed by my post. I had to look it up in Bentley's to
figure out that I don't have it... Glad, too.. one less vac leak to
hunt down!

Speaking of vac leaks, I finally got a Mityvac! What a handy tool. I
hooked it up to just about every vac line in the 240 just to rule out
as many faults as I could find. One cool use of the tool is that you
can disconnect both ends of a vac line, use the included plugs to
close off one end, then apply vacuum at the other and see if the line
itself is leaking.

Speaking of vacuum, the line from the motor to the uinterior for the
various vacuum motors that control the air flaps- it seems that this
system does not hold vacuum at all. Is that correct? Neither Bentley
nor Haynes has any info on the system worth repeating here.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Fred said:
I have a 1984 240 GL wagon with 140K original miles that past the smog
check two years ago without problems. Now it needs it again but I
understand the new California smog check requirement is tougher this year
and, in particular, on older cars. My Sond service light came on a few
months ago so now I need to reset it, but should I also replace the O2
sensor too, wagon runs pretty good for an 84. I was wondering what you guys
with older Volvos need to do to past the recent California smog check.
Click to expand...

I think Volvo must be in a pissing match with several of the states. Here
in Nevada, "older" Volvos (such as my wife's '98 V70XC) will not pass. The
problem is well known, but neither Volvo nor Nevada DMV wants to give in.

The drill: Take your car to your favorite smog check person and fail the
test. Take the car and the documents to the local DMV office. In a larger
town, there is a field testing station attached and the bright guys there
mark "pass" on your paperwork and advise DMV Central that you're really a
good person who's caught in the middle. In Nevada, it's all done via the
Internet and by the time I get home, the DMV is ready to accept my
submission and issue the new decal. A waste of time, but it's only once a
year.

bob noble
Reno, NV USA
 
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