Oil viscosity grade for aging Volvos

I guess I'm from "the old school" that felt that, due to wear and age,
one would use a slightly heavier oil in an older engine.

I live in the Pacific NW where it rarely gets very cold or hot and would
like some opinions as to the best grade to use in a 1990 740 GLE (B234F
engine) with 115,000 miles on it.

Looking at the manual there are a couple of options for our temperature
range. I guess 10/40 is best for a newer car but what about a higher
mileage one with the engine "loosened up" a bit.

Thanks,

Perk >)

 

In all my cars I've used Semi-syn.

Vauxhall Cavalier - 200K (1991 UK)
BMW 525i - 300K (1993 UK)
V70 2.5 - 160K and going strong (1998 UK)

Worth bearing in mind that modern engines use oil. My V70 recently did a
trip over Europe covering 3000 miles in 2 weeks, in very hot, hilly and
sandy conditions - used about 1.5 litres of oil in that time.

Got home, and the dipstick was on the lower markings at cold.

HTH

Jason

 

I think my book calls for 5W30, but it being 100+ degrees where I live,
I put 10W30 in my 1987 740 B230F with 200,000 miles.

 

We use 10W-30. I agree that older engines do better on slightly
heavier oil, although this might not be necessary on a B230 engine
with less than 200k miles - they are pretty tight. My 1986 Civic Si
used oil only once: at 90K when I used 5W-30 oil in it. I had to
replace the plugs and O2 sensor. At 140k it still isn't using a
significant amount of oil...

I'd avoid using synthetic or even synthetic blends because of
leak issues, and I'd also avoid 10W-40, because supposedly the
'broader' the spread in viscosities, the less effective the oil
is overall in lubricating...

 

I use 10W30 in my '82 244 Turbo (I rebuilt the engine about 6 years
ago).

 

10W30 is what many people recommend for older vehicles.

 

I always use what Volvo recommends in the owner's manual. The
recommendation depends upon the season and the climate. For example
they use a different oil in summer and winter and in tropical versus
arctic. That is why it is important to change oil with the seasons even
if you don't drive much. I never use synthetic oil, always use the real
stuff which is what Volvo recommended for my cars. I have had 10 Volvos
each for over 120 KMiles and never noticed a change in oil consumption
with mileage. One had a oil seal go bad. I fixed the seal rather than
change the oil viscosity.

 

Volvo has posted owners manual for all models since 1964 including
models from PV544 to XC90. They are at:

http://www.volvocars.us/tools/OwnersInfo/

For my 1995 850 wagon the oil recommendation is:

API spec. SG oil:

For ambient temp from below -4F to 68F: use SAE 5W/30
For ambient temp from below -4F to 104F: use SAE 5W/40
For ambient temp from -4F to 104F: use SAE 10W/30
For ambient temp from 0F to temps above 104F: use SAE 15W/40

 

I run fleet type 15W-40 in the summer and 10W-30 in the winter in our
older cars.

John

 

115,000 miles is nothing for a well maintained engine. It's barely
broken in when you consider the hundreds of thousands of miles left.
Just follow the owners manual for viscosity. Contrary to popular
opinion a heavier viscosity doesn'y "protect" the engine more.

Beyond following the ownwrs manual continue using a synthetic if you
have been. But don't change over now.

 

The main reason people use it is because they mistakenly think it will
not leak out as fast. However, what usually happens is that the reduced
lubrication of a thicker oil causes the wear to increase causing the
leak to increase.

 

HJS is right, your car is a baby. I mean 115k on a volvo. Dang, your
car is not even broken in yet! If well maintained these cars don't even
burn oil with 300K. You said you live in the Pacific Northwest. Do you
live in Portland? I own a 16 valve and I have never seen another one.
It would be nice to see another one around. You should consider
yourself lucky. The 16 valve was only made from 1989-1990. It has only
a few horse power less then the turbo.

One very important oil related thing, which is a lot more important
then viscosity is the oil filter. Make sure you are using a Volvo oil
filter. These filters have a check valve in them and they keep your oil
pressure up when your car is off. So, you have instant oil pressure on
start up, for the top end. If you don't use one you will see a low oil
pressure light for a brief time on start up, which indicates that your
oil pressure is not high enough and unneccesary wear is being done to
your engine. The volvo oil filter is a significant reason for why Volvo
engines last so long. They provide instant oil for the engine which
reduces wear and increases the longevity of the engine. Note: 16 valve
engines need more oil then the standard model, for the top end at
least.

If I where you, I would not use thick oil in your car. Your car has
hydrolic lifters in it. The lifters have small holes where the oil goes
in. If you plug them up, then your lifters will start tapping.This is
why regular oil changes are a must. Since your car has so few miles on
it this should not be a worry yet. The lifters on this car is
considered a weak point by some. Although I don't see it being that big
of an issue with regular oil changes. Although, if you have too replace
them they are over 20 dollars a pop. Considering you have 16 of them
they can be expensive. In addition, with labor, you would be looking at
about $1300 to replace.

If you ever have any problems with them, for example tapping, don't let
anyone tell you they can be adjusted. They are hyraulic and don't need
adjusting. You can sometimes use oil additives to reduce the tapping
noise caused by sticking lifters. If the noise lasts only a short time
on startup, don't worry about it because they take a few seconds to
pump up.

In addition, you have an interference engine in your car. This means
that if your timing belt breaks your engine will be ruined. As a
result, make sure you have your timing belt replaced every 50K. In
addition, make sure your balance shaft belt is replaced also. If that
breakes it might take out your timing belt. A lot of people have
removed the balance shaft completely with no problems. Some also don't
run a belt on it. I did not have a belt on it when I bought my car. In
addition, your external oil pump has a bolt on it that is a weak point.
If it breaks then your timing belt goes with it. If I were you, I would
replace it. In addition, you need to have your belt tensioner checked
periodically and probably replaced at some point, if it is the
original. If the tensioner goes then you lose your timing belt as well.
If you have your timing belt replaced make sure you have your water
pump replaced as a precaution and have your seals replaced. I mean the
labor cost is small if your already in there for the belt. Although, if
you don't do it and then you have to have it replaced you are looking
at a lot of money.

I had my timing belt replaced/water pump/balance shaft belt/seals, it
cost me almost $500 dollars. That was the most reasonalbe price/good
shop I could find. I mean the 16 valve timing belt replacement is not
easy and they charge accordingly. I think the dealer wanted to charge
over $800. In a few year, that will almost be about half of the value
of the car, just for a preventative maintenece item. I don't know about
you, but I might just sell it before the next belt change is due. Well,
minus the head of course, I have plans for that I could buy a good
240 for that price. It might be a little ruff, but some jewels just
need to be polished.

The 16 valve have a tendency to leak oil more then the other 740's. As
previously noted, If you have not used synthetic oil in your car, then
it is never a good time to start if you have lot of miles on it.
Although they should not be leaking around the oil filler cap. In
addition, if your oil dip stick pops out you have issues. Make sure you
service your pcv system. If not, your seals will pop out and your car
will leak like mad. The pcv system includes the breather box/oil
seperator, which is located under your intake manifold. The oil
separator on the 16 valve is unlike any other 740. The other 740's have
a hose that goes to the oil pan separate that u dont want to mess with.
The 16 valve has it as part of the oil separator. As a result, it is a
PITA to remove without taking off the intake manifold.

Although, if you unbolt the transmission dip stick and move it over, it
can be removed without messing with the manifold. If you don't have a
lot of money the oil box can be cleaned.Simple Green works great. I
think the thing costs like $40 bucks at the dealers. In addiition, on
top of the breather box, connected by a hose is the flame trap, the
trap is in the hose. (looks like a small round disk with holes, cheap
item), which can become plugged, as well. In additition, to those you
have a small hose leading to a brass nipple in your intake manifold.
Those can become clogged also. The brass nipple needs to be removed and
cleared out. It only has a very small hole that can get plugged up very
easy.

This car is not liked by some because of the interference engine. I
know that my mechanic does not think too highly of this car. Although,
if you are responsible this car i no less reliable then any of the
other red blocks. In addition, it is very powerful and has a unique
transmission. I think it is the AW2L. Also, the 16 valve head is very
liked by turbo bricksters. If you put the 16 valve head on a car with
a turbo then you could have over 200+++ hp. If you put a turbo on a 16
valve, which is very hard to do, well then you are a my hero.

Also, I have noticed that the steering can become a problem with these
cars. Sometimes in the morning the steering can be very difficult, like
there is no power steering. This problem is not reduced until the car
is in a rolling state. Check the previous posts on this forum alone,
and there is a half dozen people mentioning this problem, not including
myself. If your power steering fluid is grey and you are not noticing
problems, chances are you will be soon. If not, make sure you change it
every once in a while. ATF fluid Dextron III works great. Don't use
that crap from the store that is labeled power steering fluid. That
blue crap is not good for your steering.

Furthermore, if you have tan leather seats like myself please don't
forget to use some leather conditioner on them. If you don't you will
regret it later because they will crack. I think the best to use is
Lexol. I use Lexol cleaner and Lexol conditioner. They both work very
well. If your leather gets really bad the leather skin itself, or the
leather skin and the pad can be removed and replaced with a used one
from a junk yard. There are some metal hardware holding them to the
seat, but they can be removed and replaced very easy. If you ever need
to replace the bottom part, the passengers side works on the drivers
side as well. Most people don't use that side very much, so you can
find many in good shape. I got one from the junk yard for very cheap.
If you have a few blemishes that you want to fix or a few cracks/maby
want to change the color, leatherique is the best place to get the
stuff. I'm not affiliated with them, I just read a lot of good stuff
about them on the net.

If you want to clean your carpets the ones in the front are easily
removed. They just pull right out and you can spray wash them. I have
not tried to remove the back ones yet because mine are very clean. So,
I dont know if they are difficult.

The relays on these cars can sometimes be a problem. For example, if
the white relay, I think fuel pump or injector, goes bad then you will
have a lot of issues. For example, stalling. It is a good idea to pick
up some extra relays from the junk yard. The dealers charge a lot for
them. I took a whole fuse box out of a car and it was very cheap at
U-pull it. Might also want to pick up an extra AMM and engine computer.
These are also very expensive items to buy from dealers, but can be
found fairly cheap at junk yards. If you want to buy your cars brain
from dealer, I think it almost cost about as much as your car is worth.


If you have stalling problems checking your fuel pump relay and idle
control valve is a good idea.
if your car has juce and won't turn over but sometimes catches and then
dies, checking your intake manifold gasket for leaks is a good idea.
Spray WD40 around it with your car on, if it changes your idle then you
have found your problem.

The coolant hose leading to your firewall is a weak point. If you have
the original, I would consider changing it. Checking all of your hoses
for wear is a good idea. If they are soft or cracked they need to be
replaced. You can lose coolant very fast from a burst in these hoses,
which will cause a blown head gasket. In addition, if you still have
your original plastic radiator, I would replace that as soon as you
can. This radiator has the tendency to develop leaks and breaks (the
coolant hose connection at the top breaking clean off) at the most
worst times.

If you need good parts at a reasonable price, FCP Groton, on the net,
is the place to go.

You might also want to consider removing your preheat hose.It is not
very functional in our climate, and it can burn out your AMM. The hose
is the silver slinky style one.

If you don't know it, there is also a jack in a cubby in your trunk.
There is a handle below where you open the trunk up on the wall. If you
pull it, you will expose the jack. It is set in there very nicely.

I know you did not request most of this info. Although, I love the 16
valve and wanted to share what I have learned with you. There seems
like there is very few of us with this car.

 

No, that may be true for some people, but there are many of us who
simply want to reduce oil burning. As I wrote, this may not be necessary
for a Red Block engine, but it applies quite well to most older engines.
If you'd like to tell my 21 year old Civic that it has no reason to burn
much more oil when I use 5W-30 than when I use 10W-30, be my guest. It
didn't listen to me.

 

You missed the entire point. Engines run on higher than recommended
viscosity oil will use less oil but will also die sooner. High
viscosity oil doesn't lubricate as well as low viscosity oil. Oil is
much cheaper than new engines.

 

You're taking an argument that would be valid for people using, say,
20W-50 oil, and are applying it willy-nilly to use of 10W-30, which
lubricates perfectly well. The sky isn't falling, dude.

 

It depends on the climate and season you are in. 10W-30 may be right
for you but not everyone lives next door to you and owns the same car as
you. That is why a specific recommendation like that is meaningless
unless you specify the location and model and make and engine. I would
stick with the manufacturers recommendation in any case. Cars are made
to different specs and have different sensitivities to climate changes.
Even Volvos.