Overdrive in 740 turbo

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by Ray Varella, Aug 27, 2006.

  1. Ray Varella

    Ray Varella Guest

    I have a 740 turbo with an electric overdrive and it lurches under load
    in much the way a car does when someone is learning to drive with a
    manual transmission.
    I have done a visual inspection on the wiring leading to the unit and
    wiggling the wires and cleaning the connections remedied the problem
    temporarily.

    I can't get the car high enough to really get a good view and have room
    to work.
    Has anyone else had a similar problem, any suggestions on how to
    pinpoint the problem?

    Thank you

    Ray
     
    Ray Varella, Aug 27, 2006
    #1
  2. Ray Varella

    zencraps Guest

    zencraps, Aug 27, 2006
    #2
  3. Ray Varella

    Duane Guest

    If your electrical connections are tight and the fluid level is OK, under
    load could be the beginings of failing actuating piston seals or a broken
    high pressure control spring.

    Testing while driving with a high pressure ( 600PSI or better) guage
    attached to test port of OD will tell much.

    Actuating Piston O-rings require removal of OD from trans and antoher set of
    pistons to replace the bad style probably in the unit now.

    Spring requires removal of OD pan, then the far left plug to access.

    Duane
     
    Duane, Aug 27, 2006
    #3
  4. Ray Varella

    Ray Varella Guest

    Thanks Duane,
    Is it possible to disable the overdrive unit and still get 1-4?
    It lurches under load in most gears.

    Ray
     
    Ray Varella, Aug 29, 2006
    #4
  5. Ray Varella

    Duane Guest

    Lurching under load in all gears is different than lurching only in OD mode
    which is what I deduced from your original post.

    Two causes of OD induced lurching in all gears which is not caused by a
    damaged or worn engine to tranny clutch.

    Power is getting past the various switches and relays to power the solenoid
    at all times. If removing the ground wire of the solenoid under the auto
    does not stop the lurching, the solenoid needs to be refurbished.

    Fluid has gotten past two small O-rings on an internal solenoid piston into
    the coil body and has locked the OD on.

    Duane
     
    Duane, Aug 29, 2006
    #5
  6. Ray Varella

    Ray Varella Guest

    Duane,
    If I am understanding correctly then is it possible that while I
    had the car jacked up from the rear the fluid that had worked its way
    past the o-rings on the solenoid drained back into the case and that
    would have temporarily alleviated the symptom?
    Disconnecting the ground wire seems to have had no effect on the
    lurching.

    I appreciate your help.

    Ray
     
    Ray Varella, Aug 30, 2006
    #6
  7. Ray Varella

    James Sweet Guest


    If it's lurching in all gears then it isn't an electrical problem with
    the overdrive, it sounds like either an internal mechanical failure or
    the clutch is slipping. You can't bypass the overdrive, it's separately
    removable for rebuild or replacement but it forms the rear section of
    the transmission.
     
    James Sweet, Aug 31, 2006
    #7
  8. Ray Varella

    Duane Guest

    Sorry for a late reply, I finally took some vacation time.
    Possible, and probably helped for a while, but usually what happens is a
    portion of the fluid just drains out onto the ground. When you again use
    the OD, fluid again gets pushed past the internal O-rings and locks the OD
    on but only partially.

    Cure for solenoid is remove from OD, remove internals via the front of the
    brass barrel, and replace the O-rings. Size here is important. Match at a
    hydraulics supply shop. Hardware or automotive rarely carry anything that
    small.

    Difficulty is, if the OD is locked on, after a while you would not have any
    shudder since the fluid pressure would have built up to the pressures needed
    to maintain full contact internal to the OD. Usually around 25 to 30 MPH.
    SInce your shudder is in all gears, the actuating pistons are allowing fluid
    past and you are getting the shudder as the fluid is held and released past
    those O-rings.

    If this is the case, your only "cure" is to remove the OD and change the
    O-rings and actuating pistons. I would surmise that you have the original
    Teflon type O-rings which if not heated to around 600 F will fail into many
    pieces after about 10,000 miles. Rubber tyep O-rings that fit the Teflon
    width groove do not have sufficient size to effectively prevent fluid blow
    by which erodes the rubber to ineffective after about 5000 OD miles.

    Duane
     
    Duane, Sep 1, 2006
    #8
  9. Ray Varella

    Ray Varella Guest

    Duane,
    That is excellent clear and concise information.
    I will work on the solenoid first and should that not remedy the problem
    do you sell parts for these units?
    If not can you recommend a source?

    Thanks again for your help,

    Ray


    http://community.webtv.net/RAYVARELLA/WelcometoVarellas
     
    Ray Varella, Sep 2, 2006
    #9
  10. Ray Varella

    Duane Guest

    I sent a message to you off list. I hope it reaches you in a readable
    format.

    Duane
     
    Duane, Sep 2, 2006
    #10
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