Question on tranny mount

[BlairG]

Hopefully someone can help confirm this for me. My daughter has an 88
240 DL with approx 280K miles on it. It's a 5 spd manual with the M47
transmission.

Today I replaced both engine mounts ( with a lot of cursing) but I got
it done. However when I went to replace the tranny mount I noticed that
the mount on the car was different from what I got sent from FCP
Groton. The new mount is a rectangular rubber mount, the mount on the
car is a round rubber mount which matches the photos at FCP for the M46
manual transmission with OD. I decided not to change it until I could
confirm the correct mount.

Can anyone who's done this confirm if the new mount is the correct one?
The tranny has been difficult to shift i.e. hard to find the gate
(feels very sloppy) and I'm hoping the combo if a tired tranny mount
and at least one worn engine mount are the cause. What's the best way
to change it? Should I have the car on ramps or on stands, it was tight
access on the stands today at the tranny end.

While under the car I noticed that the flex disc is cracked and will
need replaced and that the exhaust manifold to downpipe mounting is
missing a stud (sounds like it's blowing when running). Can I use a nut
and bolt to tighten this up or do I need to take it to a shop to get a
stud fitted? Anything special about the nut and bolt if I can use one?
It's amazing what you find out when you do your own wrenching!!!

thanks in advance.

Blair

 

[James Sweet]

Hopefully someone can help confirm this for me. My daughter has an 88
240 DL with approx 280K miles on it. It's a 5 spd manual with the M47
transmission.

Today I replaced both engine mounts ( with a lot of cursing) but I got
it done. However when I went to replace the tranny mount I noticed that
the mount on the car was different from what I got sent from FCP
Groton. The new mount is a rectangular rubber mount, the mount on the
car is a round rubber mount which matches the photos at FCP for the M46
manual transmission with OD. I decided not to change it until I could
confirm the correct mount.

Can anyone who's done this confirm if the new mount is the correct one?
The tranny has been difficult to shift i.e. hard to find the gate
(feels very sloppy) and I'm hoping the combo if a tired tranny mount
and at least one worn engine mount are the cause. What's the best way
to change it? Should I have the car on ramps or on stands, it was tight
access on the stands today at the tranny end.

IIRC the M47 mount I've seen is rectangular, it's easy enough to check
and make sure it fits though. Someone may well have installed an M46
mount in the car.

If the shifter is sloppy, check the nylon bushings around the ball and
those on the shift linkage too.

 

[BlairG]

Thanks for the reply James on the tranny mount. Where are the nylon
bushings you are referring to (you mentioned the "ball" and the "shift
linkage" as items to check)? Are these inside the tranny, on the
outside, easily accessible?

Sorry for the multiple questions and for being a ditz but this is my
first exposure to Volvo cars. I have a Bentley manual but it doesn't
tell me where I should look.
cheers

B

 

[zencraps]

Thanks for the reply James on the tranny mount. Where are the nylon
bushings you are referring to (you mentioned the "ball" and the "shift
linkage" as items to check)? Are these inside the tranny, on the
outside, easily accessible?

The bottom of the shift lever fits into a shift rod which goes into the
gearbox.

The interface is a cylindrical rod which goes through a hole in the
bottom of the shift lever, and is held onto the shift rod via
hex-headed lock screw; two nylon bushings are used in the shift rod,
one on each side.

I would recommend putting a jack under the transmission, removing the
transmission mount and then lowering the jack a couple of inches to
give your hands the access required to remove the lock screw and
replace (or insert, if gone) the nylon busing in the shift fork.

There are two nylon bushings that surround the top and bottom of a
round ball toward the bottom of the shift lever, and you must remove
the lever from the shift fork (see above) to access them.

Remove the four plastic clips holding the rubber shifter boot in place,
slide the boot up, remove the guard (prevents inadvertantly shifting to
reverse), then use a circlip removal tool to remove the snap ring
around the shift lever, where it goes into the transmission extension /
holder.

With the snap ring out, lift out the gear shift lever, examine it, and
all will be made clear.

 

[BlairG]

Thanks for the detailed description, much appreciated. I'll be able to
check out the condition of the bushings with this info now!!

cheers
Blair