D
doc
Hello:
I've seen some terriffic websites for things like replacing a
heater/AC blower motor but found not a thing on 240 wagon (Estate car)
hatch replacement.
Helped a friend's brother do one this afternoon and got a few pics and
can offer some general tips. This project involved the left wiring
harness (driver's side on a US market vehicle.) Obviously in RHD
markets one must reverse some comments.
Vehicle was a 1986 240 DL wagon with approximately 265,000 miles on
the odometer.
Photos are available (but only document part of the process) at:
http://photobucket.com/albums/c285/dewittprof/tailgate wiring/
Overview of task:
This is not a difficult job but easier with two people. It involves
marking the hinge locations with masking tape etc, removing carpet
panel on inside of tailgate, loosening hinges (or removing rear
tailgate strut, then disconnecting old harness and fishing new one
through.
Tools and Materials Required:
Masking tape (for marking hinge locations)
Phillips head screw driver
STIFF putty knife or flat screwdriver (for bending headliner lip)
11mm socket with ratchet and short extension
12 mm socket
Slip joint pliers for pulling back headliner
Wire strippers
"Deadman" or other support brace for hatch when hinges are loosened
and strut removed.
Good soldering iron, desoldering tool, appropriate gauge wire (black,)
solder and a cleaning solution for the broken copper wire on hinge.
I use a product called Stay-Clean Liquid Soldering Flux. Where I live
it's only available at welding supply houses but is not expensive and
available in 4 oz bottles.
While one can get by without it, if the ground wire on the hinge is
broken the copper is dirty and oxidized..thus making the soldering
process more difficult.
Parts required:
New tailgate wiring harness. They come in flavors of right and left
and ARE different. At the local dealer here in NY they are
approximately $33 each side. I seem to recall that IPD is close to
that in price.
I purchased from http://www.eeuroparts.com in Connecticut for $9.90
Ordered at 3:15 PM on a Monday and had this and other parts by 3:21 PM
the next day. They ship to the US and also Canada, but I am not sure
about Europe or Central and South America. All orders placed before 5
PM EST are shipped the same day. How long it takes to arrive is
determined by distance. I happen to live a 5 or 6 hour drive from
their facility so nearly always have what I ordered in 24 hours.
Link to part:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=7464
NOTE: eEuro has excellent customer service and good prices--but make
sure you are ordering what you really REALLY need, as their return
policy has a restocking fee that can be as much as 20%--and they will
also deduct what the original shipping cost was to your location.
Understandable policy as margins have to be low for the prices they
offer. Have a question about a part number? Call them and be sure.
Time Required:
Well..it took us about 2 hours but we had many interruptions like
phone calls, customers in the shop etc. I don't work there and was
only giving a hand as the shop owner works on Volvos but had never
done this and can be impatient at times on tedious work.
I'm going to replace both harnesses on my '93 DL wagon soon and expect
it will take about 1 hour for the entire job. Practice makes things
easier, right?
Procedure, Step By Step:
1. Tape roof of car as close as possible next to rubber gasket under
hinge to mark hinge position on gate and roof. This can make it much
easier if one has to remove hinges but I'd do it anyway.
2. Remove carpet panel on inside of tailgate--essential but easy..and
here the phillips head and a putty knife are essential.
3. Raise hatch and support with a "deadman" or a sturdy home-made
brace with a heavy base. Position about center of gate seemed to work.
3b. Remove clip from upper hatch strut mount and lower it. Two second
task at best.
4. Bend down headliner support "lip" with a 5 in 1 tool, putty knife
or wide screwdriver. It only needs to be gently bent down enough to
allow one to grip the headliner with pliers, etc.
5. Pull back edge of headliner gently far enough to grasp with fingers
and pull from lip.
6. Loosen hinges on gate and roof. Roof has two 11 or 12 mm bolts,
gate has one bolt and one phillips head machine screw.
Note: In the past (many years ago) I was able to loosen the hinges and
slide wires though. On the wagon I worked on today that was not
possible as the ground wire on the hinge was broken.
7. Disconnect old harness underneath the roof, tape appropriate end of
new harness to same and pull old harness from below inside gate.
Be certain you have rubber gaskets for hinges on the roof and gate
before fishing harness through. They don't have to be in any fixed
position--but harness must go through them, or you'll have to either
cut them (bad idea) or pull the harness back up and start over.
Important note--and I wish I had gotten a pic of this but will next
time: When pulling the harness from the roof down, fish it first
through the hole in the roof and then through the hole on the upper
left inside of the tailgate so it does not have to make an extreme
bend. Then tape and pull down to the inside lower part of the gate and
reconnect. I'm not explaining this well and will provide next time I
do this. Bottom line is that is if not done this way the harness will
bind and once can't pull it through.
8. Note condition of left side hinge before loosening, and if you see
a broken heavier gauge wire you can't pull out with a pair of needle
nose it will be what I assume to be a ground wire. I'll have to do
more checking but can say this: we connected the new harness and then
tested before buttoning things back up. With hatch raised the third
brake light (cyclops as we call them here) was functional. With hatch
closed it did not work.
Repaired that wire and all was well.
9. Once harness has been installed the rest is easy--but having a
helper when refastening and tightening the hinges is best.
Final note:
I do realize the photographs and documentation could have been better,
but still think this might be helpful for someone.
When I do my own wagon sometime in the next few weeks I hope to have
someone standing by to take the pics and provide more detail.
Cheerio,
Doc
I've seen some terriffic websites for things like replacing a
heater/AC blower motor but found not a thing on 240 wagon (Estate car)
hatch replacement.
Helped a friend's brother do one this afternoon and got a few pics and
can offer some general tips. This project involved the left wiring
harness (driver's side on a US market vehicle.) Obviously in RHD
markets one must reverse some comments.
Vehicle was a 1986 240 DL wagon with approximately 265,000 miles on
the odometer.
Photos are available (but only document part of the process) at:
http://photobucket.com/albums/c285/dewittprof/tailgate wiring/
Overview of task:
This is not a difficult job but easier with two people. It involves
marking the hinge locations with masking tape etc, removing carpet
panel on inside of tailgate, loosening hinges (or removing rear
tailgate strut, then disconnecting old harness and fishing new one
through.
Tools and Materials Required:
Masking tape (for marking hinge locations)
Phillips head screw driver
STIFF putty knife or flat screwdriver (for bending headliner lip)
11mm socket with ratchet and short extension
12 mm socket
Slip joint pliers for pulling back headliner
Wire strippers
"Deadman" or other support brace for hatch when hinges are loosened
and strut removed.
Good soldering iron, desoldering tool, appropriate gauge wire (black,)
solder and a cleaning solution for the broken copper wire on hinge.
I use a product called Stay-Clean Liquid Soldering Flux. Where I live
it's only available at welding supply houses but is not expensive and
available in 4 oz bottles.
While one can get by without it, if the ground wire on the hinge is
broken the copper is dirty and oxidized..thus making the soldering
process more difficult.
Parts required:
New tailgate wiring harness. They come in flavors of right and left
and ARE different. At the local dealer here in NY they are
approximately $33 each side. I seem to recall that IPD is close to
that in price.
I purchased from http://www.eeuroparts.com in Connecticut for $9.90
Ordered at 3:15 PM on a Monday and had this and other parts by 3:21 PM
the next day. They ship to the US and also Canada, but I am not sure
about Europe or Central and South America. All orders placed before 5
PM EST are shipped the same day. How long it takes to arrive is
determined by distance. I happen to live a 5 or 6 hour drive from
their facility so nearly always have what I ordered in 24 hours.
Link to part:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=7464
NOTE: eEuro has excellent customer service and good prices--but make
sure you are ordering what you really REALLY need, as their return
policy has a restocking fee that can be as much as 20%--and they will
also deduct what the original shipping cost was to your location.
Understandable policy as margins have to be low for the prices they
offer. Have a question about a part number? Call them and be sure.
Time Required:
Well..it took us about 2 hours but we had many interruptions like
phone calls, customers in the shop etc. I don't work there and was
only giving a hand as the shop owner works on Volvos but had never
done this and can be impatient at times on tedious work.
I'm going to replace both harnesses on my '93 DL wagon soon and expect
it will take about 1 hour for the entire job. Practice makes things
easier, right?
Procedure, Step By Step:
1. Tape roof of car as close as possible next to rubber gasket under
hinge to mark hinge position on gate and roof. This can make it much
easier if one has to remove hinges but I'd do it anyway.
2. Remove carpet panel on inside of tailgate--essential but easy..and
here the phillips head and a putty knife are essential.
3. Raise hatch and support with a "deadman" or a sturdy home-made
brace with a heavy base. Position about center of gate seemed to work.
3b. Remove clip from upper hatch strut mount and lower it. Two second
task at best.
4. Bend down headliner support "lip" with a 5 in 1 tool, putty knife
or wide screwdriver. It only needs to be gently bent down enough to
allow one to grip the headliner with pliers, etc.
5. Pull back edge of headliner gently far enough to grasp with fingers
and pull from lip.
6. Loosen hinges on gate and roof. Roof has two 11 or 12 mm bolts,
gate has one bolt and one phillips head machine screw.
Note: In the past (many years ago) I was able to loosen the hinges and
slide wires though. On the wagon I worked on today that was not
possible as the ground wire on the hinge was broken.
7. Disconnect old harness underneath the roof, tape appropriate end of
new harness to same and pull old harness from below inside gate.
Be certain you have rubber gaskets for hinges on the roof and gate
before fishing harness through. They don't have to be in any fixed
position--but harness must go through them, or you'll have to either
cut them (bad idea) or pull the harness back up and start over.
Important note--and I wish I had gotten a pic of this but will next
time: When pulling the harness from the roof down, fish it first
through the hole in the roof and then through the hole on the upper
left inside of the tailgate so it does not have to make an extreme
bend. Then tape and pull down to the inside lower part of the gate and
reconnect. I'm not explaining this well and will provide next time I
do this. Bottom line is that is if not done this way the harness will
bind and once can't pull it through.
8. Note condition of left side hinge before loosening, and if you see
a broken heavier gauge wire you can't pull out with a pair of needle
nose it will be what I assume to be a ground wire. I'll have to do
more checking but can say this: we connected the new harness and then
tested before buttoning things back up. With hatch raised the third
brake light (cyclops as we call them here) was functional. With hatch
closed it did not work.
Repaired that wire and all was well.
9. Once harness has been installed the rest is easy--but having a
helper when refastening and tightening the hinges is best.
Final note:
I do realize the photographs and documentation could have been better,
but still think this might be helpful for someone.
When I do my own wagon sometime in the next few weeks I hope to have
someone standing by to take the pics and provide more detail.
Cheerio,
Doc