rough idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter tvrc18
  • Start date Start date
T

tvrc18

After a good tune up, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, throttle body
clean and aic cleaning the car ran good and idled smooth. Now it still
runs good but is idling rough and seems rich at idle. I cleaned the
throttle body with out removing it so I may need to remove it and try.
I tried a new o2 sensor and it must be bad because it ran rough so I
put the old sensor in and it runs ok just idles roughly. Any ideas?
 
tvrc18 said:
After a good tune up, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, throttle body
clean and aic cleaning the car ran good and idled smooth. Now it still
runs good but is idling rough and seems rich at idle. I cleaned the
throttle body with out removing it so I may need to remove it and try.
I tried a new o2 sensor and it must be bad because it ran rough so I
put the old sensor in and it runs ok just idles roughly. Any ideas?

Which of the several dozen models Volvo has produced over the last century
is this car? Always post the model and year, it will help people know what
to suggest.
 
Which of the several dozen models Volvo has produced over the last century
is this car? Always post the model and year, it will help people know what
to suggest.

sorry it is an 89 740 with 8 valve 4 cylinder and Bosch injection.
 
tvrc18 said:
sorry it is an 89 740 with 8 valve 4 cylinder and Bosch injection.

You might check your fuel injectors, if they're leaky or clogged they can
make it impossible to get the idle smooth. You can pull the fuel rail and
injectors without disconnecting the plumbing.
 
James Sweet said:
You might check your fuel injectors, if they're leaky or clogged they can
make it impossible to get the idle smooth. You can pull the fuel rail and
injectors without disconnecting the plumbing.

Just handle the assembly gently. The injectors can start leaking at the
plastic/metal seam if handled roughly.

Mike
 
Michael Pardee said:
Just handle the assembly gently. The injectors can start leaking at the
plastic/metal seam if handled roughly.

Mike

I should add that a few drops of light machine oil at the ends of the
injectors can help considerably to lube the O-rings and free the injectors
without bending the fuel rail or damaging anything.
 
I should add that a few drops of light machine oil at the ends of the
injectors can help considerably to lube the O-rings and free the injectors
without bending the fuel rail or damaging anything.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the input. I tried the wd40 spray on the injectors and no
change in engine rpm, before I did the spraying I noticed the check
engine light was on. I have not seen this before. I ran the OBD check
and got 2 codes both for Lambda sound, o2 sensor I suspect. Checked
sensor output and it never changes from about 80 millivolts. Hard to
believe the Japanese one I bought on Ebay for 30 bucks was bad out of
the box and then the old original with 244,000 miles a short time
later goes south. Maybe I should have never touched the o2 sensor. It
was running well and I figured hey it can't hurt, they can't last
forever. Maybe I need to spring for the almost 200 dollar Bosch unit.
They guy said he would send another one when I send this back but now
I am spooked by what I believe is a NPK brand, not NGK like the
sparkplugs. It had the correct ends and length but the sensor part was
smaller.
 
Thanks for the input. I tried the wd40 spray on the injectors and no
change in engine rpm, before I did the spraying I noticed the check
engine light was on. I have not seen this before. I ran the OBD check
and got 2 codes both for Lambda sound, o2 sensor I suspect. Checked
sensor output and it never changes from about 80 millivolts. Hard to
believe the Japanese one I bought on Ebay for 30 bucks was bad out of
the box and then the old original with 244,000 miles a short time
later goes south. Maybe I should have never touched the o2 sensor. It
was running well and I figured hey it can't hurt, they can't last
forever. Maybe I need to spring for the almost 200 dollar Bosch unit.
They guy said he would send another one when I send this back but now
I am spooked by what I believe is a NPK brand, not NGK like the
sparkplugs. It had the correct ends and length but the sensor part was
smaller.


I'm not referring to the injector seals leaking, but the injectors
themselves. When I started my EFI conversion, I had 11 740T injectors. 3 of
them were good and matched, one was good but about 5% high in flow, the rest
were leaking when closed or WAY off in flow, so it's not unlikely they could
use servicing.

Look online, there's instructions for testing O2 sensors out of the car. If
it's producing voltage I suspect the sensor is good, a very rich mixture
will stick the output at around .80 as well as make the idle rough.

You know, you might check the fuel pressure as well, I recently had the FPR
fail on my 740 and it caused all sorts of weird stuff, if it sticks closed
the rail pressure will be much higher, causing a higher flow from the
injectors and richer mixture.
 
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