Starting problem - 1989 740 B230E

Discussion in 'Volvo 740' started by Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot, Oct 22, 2005.

  1. Hi,

    Sometimes, when starting, the engine will catch briefly then die. Attempting
    to restart involves about 10 seconds of turning over and about a third
    throttle. During this time it sounds like the engine is only running on two
    or three cylinders. When the third cylinder fires up the engine will run
    roughly for a few seconds then the fourth cylinder joins in and it runs as
    well as ever.

    If I think it's likely that this will happen, usually when the engine has
    run for a short while, is just barely warm, and has been turned off for a
    while, I keep the starter winding, hear the initial catch and die, and then
    the engine will start and run fine.

    Sometimes when completely cold the engine will run roughly for a few seconds
    and then either clear itself and run properly, or a rev to 200-ish rpm will
    make it run properly. Other times it will start and run fine.

    Any ideas?

    There has been a fault with the day-running lights which was down to a bad
    earth so is is possible that this could also be a bad earth on the cold
    start injector, auxiliary air valve etc.? I seem to recall a multiple earth
    connector on the side of the engine bay (it's dark and I'm not looking
    now!); would this be where most of the important (i.e. engine-related) earth
    connections for the car, apart from the battery of course, end up?

    Si
     
    Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot, Oct 22, 2005
    #1
  2. Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot

    User Guest

    It's not likely that the programming for your car will ever allow the
    cold start valve to operate. If it does however it only fires when the
    starter is engaged.

    Your problem sounds as if you are losing fuel pressure. You'll have to
    hang a gauge in the system to eliminate the possible causes. You need to
    know if the fuel pressure regulator, main fuel pump check valve, or
    prepump hose or prepump itself are allowing the fuel pressure to drop.
    It's also possible that the injectors themselves are not closing
    completely on shut down and are dripping or the fuel pump relay is
    intermittent and the pump isn't even running until the starter has been
    spinning for a while. Instead of just starting the car immediately, try
    cycling the key a few times and listen for the fuel pump to run for a
    second or two to prime the fuel lines. If this cure the problem then
    proceed back to the beginning of the paragraph.


    If the above doesn't provide a solution then perhaps some ignition
    maintenance is in order. It is possible that the coil is intermittent
    and provides a weak spark when the trouble occurs, compounded by well
    worn spark plugs or old wires, cap and rotor.

    This general information. For a more specific response post the fuel
    injection and ignition types. Depending on type there are additional
    components that may be faulty.

    Bob
     
    User, Oct 23, 2005
    #2
  3. Why's that? Is it just for extremely low temperatures?
    Possibly, but more often than not it will start properly, straight away.

    I haven't ever noticed the fuel pump running at all, to be honest.
    It has a new coil, distributor cap and plugs.

    I had a good look round the engine bay today and noticed that the braided
    earth strap which runs from the bulkhead to one of the rocker cover bolts
    (there are two - the other one disappears under the distributor somewhere)
    had broken away from its connector, which couldn't have helped matters, so
    that's now repaired. I hope, but doubt, that it caused the bad starting!

    Si
     
    Mungo \two sheds\ Toadfoot, Oct 23, 2005
    #3
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