sticking ring 240 2.3

  • Thread starter Thread starter snoopy42
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snoopy42

i had an oil leak from rear main, that was fixed, now its pushing oil out of
front seal where pulley is.

mechanic told me that its caused by sticking piston ring(s), pressurising
the crankcase.

he told me would be best to rebuild the engine, more $$$$!!!!

is there an aditive i can add to the oil or something that will 'clean' the
stcking rings? prefer an additive i can buy in australia.

thanks guys in advance :)
 
Have you checked that the PCV/flametrap/oil mist trap are all
operating properly? These should be changedd as the oil trap is very
difficult to clean properly. A piece of flat plastic should be sucked
down and held (slightly) on the oil filler neck when the engine is
running- that is, there should be a slight abmunt of negative pressure
in the crankcas. if not, then numerous oil leaks are the result. The
mechjanic should have first check for that, unless he has other
knowledge about the motor. Like, did he do a compression check to KNOW
that a ring was stuck?

IF (and that's a big if) you have verified that the motor needs to be
rebuilt, then try this: Warm up motor, drain engine, change oil
filter, fill with ATF, and run at fast idle for a few minutes (like
3-5 minutes), then drain, change filter, fill with proper motor oil,
and drive. Be sure to speed up to a higher RPM, then release the
throttle a few times during this drive (like downshifting). Change oil
again after 100 miles, then take for a long, fast drive.



snoopy42 said:
i had an oil leak from rear main, that was fixed, now its pushing oil out of
front seal where pulley is.

mechanic told me that its caused by sticking piston ring(s), pressurising
the crankcase.

he told me would be best to rebuild the engine, more $$$$!!!!

is there an aditive i can add to the oil or something that will 'clean' the
stcking rings? prefer an additive i can buy in australia.

thanks guys in advance :)
Click to expand...

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Randy said:
Have you checked that the PCV/flametrap/oil mist trap are all
operating properly? These should be changedd as the oil trap is very
difficult to clean properly. A piece of flat plastic should be sucked
down and held (slightly) on the oil filler neck when the engine is
running- that is, there should be a slight abmunt of negative pressure
in the crankcas. if not, then numerous oil leaks are the result. The
mechjanic should have first check for that, unless he has other
knowledge about the motor. Like, did he do a compression check to KNOW
that a ring was stuck?

IF (and that's a big if) you have verified that the motor needs to be
rebuilt, then try this: Warm up motor, drain engine, change oil
filter, fill with ATF, and run at fast idle for a few minutes (like
3-5 minutes), then drain, change filter, fill with proper motor oil,
and drive. Be sure to speed up to a higher RPM, then release the
throttle a few times during this drive (like downshifting). Change oil
again after 100 miles, then take for a long, fast drive.





__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...


thanks Randy :)

the mechanic put a new flame trap in a few weeks ago, is that what u
mean?

i bought a bottle of Nulon Engine Oil Flush, is that ok to use?

more info on this product:- http://www.nulon.com.au/ , its on the left
hand side under 'engine treatments', might help with info for you.
 
snoopy42 said:
i had an oil leak from rear main, that was fixed, now its pushing oil out
of front seal where pulley is.

mechanic told me that its caused by sticking piston ring(s), pressurising
the crankcase.

he told me would be best to rebuild the engine, more $$$$!!!!

is there an aditive i can add to the oil or something that will 'clean'
the stcking rings? prefer an additive i can buy in australia.

thanks guys in advance :)
Click to expand...
As long as the crankcase ventilation is clear no amount of blow-by will
pressurize the crankcase. The flametrap is an important part, but even the
hoses themselves can plug completely (happened to our 760T).

The ventilation hose should have little restriction all the way from the end
that connects to the intake through to the crankcase. Remove the oil cap and
blow into the end of the hose that attached to the intake. If you can't get
air through there about like you would use to blow out a candle, check each
section. I believe your model has the oil-air separator on the engine (under
the intake manifold); those often become restricted. They aren't easy to
clean and replacements are reasonably priced.

Mike
 
the mechanic put a new flame trap in a few weeks ago, is that what u
mean?
Click to expand...
That's a good start. Thre is also an oil trap, under the intake
manifold- a balck, plastic box sot of thing. Cheap to replace, hard to
clean, and they can become clogged which will/can also cause leakage.

Again, as I mentioned, check for negative pressure in the crankcase
when the motor is running. If there is negative pressure, then the
things I mentioned are not the problem.
i bought a bottle of Nulon Engine Oil Flush, is that ok to use?

more info on this product:- http://www.nulon.com.au/ , its on the left
hand side under 'engine treatments', might help with info for you.
Click to expand...
Take a bright light and look into the valve cover through the oil fill
cap. Also, make a probe (a bicycle spoke might work) and "scrape" off
the bottom, inside of the oil pan and see what comes out. it will give
you an idea of the amount of crud in there.

The problem is that when this stuff is excessive it is a sign that
other things are wrong- it's not the crud that is the problem, but
what caused it to accumulate.

Try that cleaner- I don't think it can make things a whole lot worse,
but FIRST try the crankcase pressure/vacuum check:

-Take a piece of stiff plastic (like 3-5mm thick, clear plexiglas).
-Moisten one side with a thin coat of engine oil.
-Remove oil fill cap and lay plastic on opening of valve cover.
-Hold in place lightly. Look at oil film to assure that a good seal
has been achieved.
-Lift plastic off. Remember how much force it took to lift.
-Replace Plastic, hold in place, and have someone start motor.
-Hold plastic place lightly for about ten or fifteen seconds. Look at
oil film to assure that a good seal has been achieved.
-Lift plastic off. It should take more effort to remove than it did
with the motor off.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
ty guys i'll try those things in the next day or so.

i injected by a pressure can of subaru inner engine cleaner in the
liitle nozzle in the intake manifold to clean the upper part of the
engine, followed the instructions on the can. the engine ran very
smooth after that, BUT now it idles at 1400 rpm when the engine is hot.
is there an adjustment for the idle on a 240?
 
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