still hard to start

[jacktheboy]

1990 240 wagon with 200k
Replaced AMM with correct unit, still get frequent hard starts.
First start of the day can take two or three tries, with extended
cranking times. Throughout the day, might start on first try like it
always did, might not.
I'm thinking maybe Crank Position Sensor. But this is not a "Hot"
hard start problem.
Car runs fine when running

 

[jacktheboy]

I forgot to add, that when I replaced the AMM the large hose going up
to the manifold had what could be described as a fair amount of oil in
it. That is, pooling in the ridged hose of maybe a teaspoon of oil.
Enough that you could pour out a few slow drops, because of the
ridges.
Signs or symptoms of what?

 

[Michael Pardee]

I forgot to add, that when I replaced the AMM the large hose going up
to the manifold had what could be described as a fair amount of oil in
it. That is, pooling in the ridged hose of maybe a teaspoon of oil.
Enough that you could pour out a few slow drops, because of the
ridges.
Signs or symptoms of what?

I don't know how the 240 induction is laid out, but that could be a sign of
a properly operating Volvo crankcase ventilation system - really! Wherever
the large hose from the flame trap (or the "Y" housing that can hold a flame
trap) connects to the intake ducts, a significant amount of oil mist is
brought in. It normally coats the inside of the ducts and pools in low
spots. It isn't good for the ducts and softens the bottoms, but there isn't
any actual "fix."

Mike

 

[Michael Pardee]

1990 240 wagon with 200k
Replaced AMM with correct unit, still get frequent hard starts.
First start of the day can take two or three tries, with extended
cranking times. Throughout the day, might start on first try like it
always did, might not.
I'm thinking maybe Crank Position Sensor. But this is not a "Hot"
hard start problem.
Car runs fine when running

Have you tried the test for leaky checkback valve (or anything else that
lets the fuel rail pressure bleed off)? Hit the starter for about half a
second and let the key drop back to the "run" position for 3-5 seconds, then
try starting. If it starts right up it indicates the fuel pressure has bled
off from the injector rail while the engine was sitting. The "bump" of the
starter runs the fuel pump about five seconds to restore pressure. You'd
think the engine would fire as soon as pressure was regained - just a few
seconds - but in practice ECUs start messing with the mixture by that time
and the engine won't catch. Stupid computers! Eventually it stumbles on the
right injection.

Alternatively, you can spray a few seconds worth of starting fluid into the
air filter and close up the air cleaner box before trying to start in the
morning. That will at least tell you if all you are missing is fuel.

Mike