Tips for Volvo 1800

I've been looking around for sometime trying to find a decent volvo
1800. I have never owned a Volvo and I was wondering what to look for
when it came to problem areas.

 

Rust, injector leaks if it is an E model. My 1800E served me very well
for 11 years, but I had fits with fuel leaks around the injectors. The
body rot was starting to become a problem. It only used premium leaded
fuel. The front shocks pulled through their mounts, and I had to use
large washers to remount the shocks so they would stay in place. I
didn' think you need so slow down in a Volvo when going over railroad
tracks but learned otherwise. It has manual steering drives like a
truck when trying to parallel park it. On the highway it drove
beautifully. I tried to avoid driving it in town.

 

Rust, for sure. There are lots of hidden places it can occur. Are you
interested in an 1800 ES ( the sport wagon)? I've got one available,
fresh restoration, with performance modifications, and one fun ride.

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6)
1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
1994 Volvo 850 (Tilley)
1973 Volvo 1800 ES (Hyacinth Bucket)

 

1. Very early 1800 in first year, called "Jensen" are very collectible
because of being first, but least reliable. Ever heard of Windows 1.0?
2. Look first for a model with the best body - no or very little rust. Rust
is like cancer - if you can see a little, it is an indicator that there is a
lot you can't see until it has spread and very out of control. Be willing
to pay more for a body that is perfect or near perfect (no rust). Have
someone knowledgeable with this specific model, or vintage cars in general,
inspect the car for sale to look for rust spots. Check your local or state
Volvo Club of America (VCOA) chapter for a recommended and qualified
inspector.
3. Bumper styles changed in the first few years. These are noticeable from
a collectible/cosmetic standpoint.
4. Various steering system and various braking system changes occured
throughout the 13 year run for the 1800. Around 66 - 68, brake system
advanced with dual system and brake pads vs. brake shoes. Also, the
mid-height side body chrome "Nike Swoosh" changed around '67 from a curve
line to a straight line from front of body to back. The earlier side chrome
is much more stylish. The straight chrome is more sleek. Some cars on the
used market have completely removed this chrome.
5. In '69, the sleek space-age aluminum dash switched to the cheesey glue-on
plastic simulated wood-grain dash accent, and the cool aqua-torquoise gauges
face color changed to black face with very refined (almost legal font)
lettering. I own a later '70, but I like the earlier space-age look
(personally).
6. In '70, the 1800E, with electronic fuel injection (Bosch D-Jet, WWI
prototype) replaced the dual SU Carb system. It also had high compression
B20E engine, with increased horse power. Both the earlier carb system and
the fuel injection system have their advantages and disadvantages. Both
vintages can be re-fitted with various options, including aftermarket.
Consult with www.ipdusa.com for a rundown of available options, and decide
which set of problems you want to embrace.
7. In '71, the hatchback wagon version body was introduced, and was produced
until '73. It has its own coolness. Other than the hatchback body,
everything else was the same as the late 2 door model.

These 7 choices give you a high level overview of the model. Number 2 is
the most important item in your overall purchase decision. Get a clean,
rust-free body to start with. All the other problems are just mechanical,
and (relatively) either repairable or replaceable.

If you are near Dallas/Ft. Worth, you are welcome to look at mine, I will
probably sell within the next year, I'm too old to want to drive it and
tinker with it anymore. Also, check your local VCOA chapter for models for
sale, recommendations, and advice.

Good luck,
Pat Q

 

I would suggest you to go for Volvo model it is good. i own Volvo XC60 and it is really smooth going from last few months.