used Volvo 740 DL: accessing timing belt condition?

Our little dog rescue recently received the donation of a 1990 Volvo
740 DL sedan (no turbo). We have no way of knowing when the timing
belt was last changed (2111,000 miles on the clock). In general the
car was not well cared for but it runs well now that it has had a
tune-up.

Can a mechanic accurately inspect the timing belt to determine if it
should be replaced? Is this engine an "interference engine" where
gastly things will occurs if the timing belt breaks? Should we just go
ahead and replace it? How much should that cost?

Thanks in advance!

 

Sue,

The b230 series engines are all interference engines, and due to my own
stupidity, mine recently proved how ghastly things can get, I hadn't
tightened the crankshaft pulley to the correct torque, the timing belt drive
behind it starting 'rattling', it's locating 'dog' shattered off, the belt
stopped turning, the engine stopped turning very shortly after, 3 exhaust
valves were history, one was so badly bent I had to break it to remove it, I
know I was lucky to get away with relatively minor (to me) damage.

If you are in any doubt about when the belt was last changed, it's not safe
to leave it, any experienced mechanic should be able to do the job in an
hour or less, the timing marks are clear, and easy to interpret, none of the
fittings/bolts etc are hard to access, the belts themselves are very cheap
for what they are/do. Here in the UK they average about 14-16 UKP.

Having never paid anyone to do my spannering (DIY mostly), I couldn't tell
you how much it would cost to do the job.

If you can actually see the belt (or remove the cover to get at it), twist
it round slightly at the longest section, then bend the teeth towards you a
little (this opens the teeth out a bit), do not crimp or fold the belt, this
will damage it, any slight evidence of cracking at the base of teeth is an
indication of being old, and not as reliable as you'd like.

Best wishes, Ken

The b230 series engines are all interference engines, and due to my own
stupidity, mine recently proved how ghastly things can get, I hadn't
tightened the crankshaft pulley to the correct torque, the timing belt drive
behind it starting 'rattling', it's locating 'dog' shattered off, the belt
stopped turning, the engine stopped turning very shortly after, 3 exhaust
valves were history, one was so badly bent I had to break it to remove it, I
know I was lucky to get away with relatively minor (to me) damage.

If you are in any doubt about when the belt was last changed, it's not safe
to leave it, any experienced mechanic should be able to do the job in an
hour or less, the timing marks are clear, and easy to interpret, none of the
fittings/bolts etc are hard to access, the belts themselves are very cheap
for what they are/do. Here in the UK they average about 14-16 UKP.

Having never paid anyone to do my spannering (DIY mostly), I couldn't tell
you how much it would cost to do the job.

If you can actually see the belt (or remove the cover to get at it), twist
it round slightly at the longest section, then bend the teeth towards you a
little (this opens the teeth out a bit), do not crimp or fold the belt, this
will damage it, any slight evidence of cracking at the base of teeth is an
indication of being old, and not as reliable as you'd like.

Best wishes, Ken

 

Just change it. Even if you pay a mechanic to do it, it is a LOT
cheaper than the damage it can do if it fails. There are plenty of
older 960s in wrecking yards with destroyed motors from timing belt
failure. On my 960 the timing belt runs the water pump as well, so I
keep a spare in the garage so if it feels wonky when I have the belt
out I change the pump at the same time. There are other related parts
as well (tensioner, idler, etc) but the mechanic will have to access
the belt to check these. The idler pully on mine was worn, showing
signs that it could fail soon. I was glad I changed all teh related
parts. That doesn't have to be done every time, but they all need to
be checked. The cost of the tow alone could pay for most of the job.

from Randy & Valerie
__ __
\ \ / /
\ \/ /
\__/olvo
1993 960

 

All B21, B23, B230, and B230F engines are non-interference engines. Breaking
the T-belt cannot damage the engine. It pays 2 1/2 hours labour and you
might as well pay another
1/2 hr and get the 3 front seals replaced at the same time.

 

All B21, B23, B230, and B230F engines are non-interference engines. Breaking

I've always heard that only the B20, Diesel, and 16valve 4 bangers were
interference engines and that the B23, B230 were not ?
Anyhow I have my B23's timing belt replaced every 50K - 60K miles and it costs
me about $110 USD at an independent shop.

 

Not in north america they're not, the 16v engines are interference but I've
personally verified that the 8v B230F's are not.

 

Interference or not, a broken belt will leave you stranded and isn't a
particularly difficult service, best to just get it done if in doubt.

 

Folks, thanks for all your advice.

My very trustworthy mechanic inspected the belt and it was obvious
that it had been in use for quite a while. Although the engine is a
non-interference, I decided to have the belt changed anyway to avoid
the possibility of being stranded somewhere with a car full of
homeless dogs.

Thanks again for your kind help.

 

Folks, thanks for all your advice.

My very trustworthy mechanic inspected the belt and it was obvious
that it had been in use for quite a while. Although the engine is a
non-interference, I decided to have the belt changed anyway to avoid
the possibility of being stranded somewhere with a car full of
homeless dogs.

Thanks again for your kind help.