Volvo 240 Starter removal replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter masterohnone
  • Start date Start date
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masterohnone

Having fruitlessly searched for tips on getting the starter off my
car, I just went at it and found a way.
The 240 starter (in my case a 1990, but will apply to many other years
as well) is held on by two bolts, the upper most of which is a real
bear to get at. Here's how i did it and i hope this helps someone who
doesn't feel equipped to lower the transmission.
Tools. Trouble lamp, 13mm socket, 18mm socket, 12 inch extension,
breaker bar with swivling type head, regular socket wrench, block of
wwod (2X4 ok), prybar.
1.Disconnect both battery terminals (10mm)
2.Disconnect the positive leads to the starter (13mm) pos terminal.
3.Wiggle off the single wire with bayonet connector.
4.Block wheels, set parking brake, block wheels, raise car and secure
with at least 1 heavy jack stand.
5.Under the car, use the prybar to force the transmission as far to
the passenger side as possible, it'll move about an inch or two.Pry
towards the rear of the tranny where it meets the driveshaft and pry
against the channel wall of the hole the tranny sits in. Being on
rubber mounts, it'll move more than you think, be careful not to pinch
anything. Keeping the pressure on the prybar, wedge a chunc of 2X4
between the trany and the housing wall, do this as far to the rear as
possible ( I wedged mine where the driveshaft meets the trranny.) This
will give you just barely enough (but enough) room to get that top
bolt out.
6.18mm socket on 12 inch extension on breakerbar with swivle head.Get
the socket on tyhe upper bolt, press the extension and breaker bar
head as far up in the channel as you can and go at it..it will break
loose after which the regular socket wrech can be used to back it out
(a click or three at a time I'm afraid)
7.Remove the lower bolt (also 18mm)
8. Mine was stuck in the flywheel housing prettu good and required a
couple of whacks with a rubber mallet (from the top) using a two or
three foot chunk of lumber to deliver the blows (theres NO room to
swing a hammer in the vicinity of the starter.
9. The starter will drop out of the bottom, don't try and pull it
upwards through the top past all those tubes and wires.

Replace...

1. Get under the car and put the starter up through the bottom.
2. Push the upper bolt back through it's hole
3. From the top of the car, align the starter in it's place, and if
you twist your arm the right way, you can reach behind to the upper
bolt (from over the engine) and start the upper bolt by hand. It must
be perfectly alinged. Once you've got it in as faras your greasy
finger will allow, get under the car and start in the bottom bolt. It
too myust be perfectly in line, so rotating the starter slightly
clockwise or counter clock wise may be required.
4. The rest is the reverse of the removal, try to get the top bolt
snugged down as much as you can, then reef the bottom one.

Have fun!
 
Having fruitlessly searched for tips on getting the starter off my
car, I just went at it and found a way.
The 240 starter (in my case a 1990, but will apply to many other years
as well) is held on by two bolts, the upper most of which is a real
bear to get at. Here's how i did it and i hope this helps someone who
doesn't feel equipped to lower the transmission.
Tools. Trouble lamp, 13mm socket, 18mm socket, 12 inch extension,
breaker bar with swivling type head, regular socket wrench, block of
wwod (2X4 ok), prybar.
1.Disconnect both battery terminals (10mm)
2.Disconnect the positive leads to the starter (13mm) pos terminal.
3.Wiggle off the single wire with bayonet connector.
4.Block wheels, set parking brake, block wheels, raise car and secure
with at least 1 heavy jack stand.
5.Under the car, use the prybar to force the transmission as far to
the passenger side as possible, it'll move about an inch or two.Pry
towards the rear of the tranny where it meets the driveshaft and pry
against the channel wall of the hole the tranny sits in. Being on
rubber mounts, it'll move more than you think, be careful not to pinch
anything. Keeping the pressure on the prybar, wedge a chunc of 2X4
between the trany and the housing wall, do this as far to the rear as
possible ( I wedged mine where the driveshaft meets the trranny.) This
will give you just barely enough (but enough) room to get that top
bolt out.
6.18mm socket on 12 inch extension on breakerbar with swivle head.Get
the socket on tyhe upper bolt, press the extension and breaker bar
head as far up in the channel as you can and go at it..it will break
loose after which the regular socket wrech can be used to back it out
(a click or three at a time I'm afraid)
7.Remove the lower bolt (also 18mm)
8. Mine was stuck in the flywheel housing prettu good and required a
couple of whacks with a rubber mallet (from the top) using a two or
three foot chunk of lumber to deliver the blows (theres NO room to
swing a hammer in the vicinity of the starter.
9. The starter will drop out of the bottom, don't try and pull it
upwards through the top past all those tubes and wires.


I've had luck using a bunch of extensions and u-joints stuck together
without doing any prying of the transmission. Manual gearbox cars have
significantly more room to work than the slushboxes but both are possible
though not easy.
 
5.Under the car, use the prybar to force the transmission as far to
the passenger side as possible, it'll move about an inch or two.Pry
towards the rear of the tranny where it meets the driveshaft and pry
against the channel wall of the hole the tranny sits in. Being on
rubber mounts, it'll move more than you think, be careful not to pinch
anything. Keeping the pressure on the prybar, wedge a chunc of 2X4
between the trany and the housing wall, do this as far to the rear as
possible ( I wedged mine where the driveshaft meets the trranny.) This
will give you just barely enough (but enough) room to get that top
bolt out.

Hmmm, I have never pried on the transmission in order to remove a 240
starter, but I've only done that job twice. If using this pry method
you must be careful not to destroy the transmission mount or either of
the motor mounts.

The upper bolt is hard to get to, but with a 1/2" socket set and some
long extensions plus one universal joint it is certainly doable. Not
fun, but doable.

John
 
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