Volvo 240 - Upcoming major service items?

  • Thread starter Thread starter han_chung
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han_chung

Hi,

I've had an '87 240GL (automatic transmission) for about 18 months now
and have taken it from 197,000kms to 223,000kms as a drive to work car.
In that time, I've had the following done:

Timing belt replaced
Transmission mounts replaced
Catalytic converter replaced
Brake pads, tyres, battery and other consumables

Other than the items above, it's running very nicely and consumes/leaks
very little oil and has a quiet engine.

Are there any other (expensive) items I should be keeping an eye on
that might fail soon? I'm not mechanically minded, so would be relying
on the services of an independent Volvo specialist.

Regards,

Han.
 
Things I would do:

Drain and replace antifreeze; replace thermostat.

Power flush / replace transmission fluid and filter.

Drain and replace gear oil in rear end.

Drain and replace power steering fluid and brake fluid.

Check condition of U-joints.

Tune up with new wires, cap and rotor.

Clean throttle body.

Check and grease inner and outer wheel bearings.

Check condition of front and rear suspension, especially struts and
shocks.

As for replacement part possibilities, be prepared to replace a fuel
pump relay, in-tank fuel pump, and main fuel pump.

Water pump will fail eventually, as may the alternator.

Electrical gremlins may lead to replacing a failed engine wiring
harness.
 
Hi,

I've had an '87 240GL (automatic transmission) for about 18 months now
and have taken it from 197,000kms to 223,000kms as a drive to work car.
In that time, I've had the following done:

Timing belt replaced
Transmission mounts replaced
Catalytic converter replaced
Brake pads, tyres, battery and other consumables

Other than the items above, it's running very nicely and consumes/leaks
very little oil and has a quiet engine.

Are there any other (expensive) items I should be keeping an eye on
that might fail soon? I'm not mechanically minded, so would be relying
on the services of an independent Volvo specialist.

At that age and mileage the list of things which could go wrong is very
high :(. Keep getting your routine work like oil changes done by the
Volvo specialist you are going to and simply ask them to let you know
when other problems arise. Air mass meter, motor mounts, suspension
rubber bits, shocks/struts, engine wiring harness, heater blower motor,
and more are all possible failure candidates. Nothing to be panicked
about, but plenty of things *might* happen.

John
 
[email protected] wrote:

This sounds like a list by someone who wears a belt and suspenders and
is still afraid to stand up for fear their pants will fall down.
Drain and replace antifreeze; replace thermostat.

I have never done this on any of my Volvos except where listed in
routine maintenance (never, except if discolored). An old thermostat
may last longer than a new one.
Power flush / replace transmission fluid and filter.

I have never done this on any of my Volvos except where listed in
routine maintenance (every 32,000 km).
Drain and replace gear oil in rear end.

I have never done this on any of my Volvos except where listed in
routine maintenance, it seldom is.
Drain and replace power steering fluid and brake fluid.

I have never done this on any of my Volvos except where listed in
routine maintenance (never, except if discolored, or brakes get spongy).
Check condition of U-joints.

They usually are very cooperative and provide noise on acceleration or
deceleration when they go bad. Don't ignore such warnings. It is bad
news if a U-joint comes apart while driving.
Tune up with new wires, cap and rotor.

Not necessary if you are not having problems.
Clean throttle body.

This is important, especially if you use Cruise Control. What happens
is that if the throttle body gets crudy the throttle can stick in the on
position. A very bad thing.

Don't forget routine replacement of filters and plugs.

Routinely check seals for leakage. I do this by checking my garage
floor. If I see one drop, I get it fixed.
Check and grease inner and outer wheel bearings.

Check condition of front and rear suspension, especially struts and
shocks.

As for replacement part possibilities, be prepared to replace a fuel
pump relay, in-tank fuel pump, and main fuel pump.

Water pump will fail eventually, as may the alternator.

Electrical gremlins may lead to replacing a failed engine wiring
harness.

This is seldom necessary on old Volvos. On the models involved with bad
connectors, the problem usually surfaced early and was replaced by the
first owner. I personally have never had this problem.

If you don't have an owners manual, the USA edition is at:

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1987/1987_240/87240_00.htm

It lists the maintenance schedule on page 54. The major services are at
multiples of 48,000 km (valve clearance, air filter, spark plugs) and
80,000 km (timing gear belt). The routine maintenance is at multiples
of 8,000 km (check throttle body, engine mounts, hoses, belts and fluid
levels, and change oil and oil filter).

If you go to www.volvocars.com they may have the manual for your model.

I have had 10 Volvos and all served me very well for over 120,000 miles
and the newer ones for over 180,000 miles (288,000 kms). I sold each
one and it looked and drove just like it was new.
 
They usually are very cooperative and provide noise on acceleration or
deceleration when they go bad. Don't ignore such warnings. It is bad
news if a U-joint comes apart while driving.

Is this an expensive item? I've recently started to hear a loud
creaking noise coming somewhere from the rear when accelerating from
the stop position while on a slight uphill incline.

Han.
 
Is this an expensive item? I've recently started to hear a loud
creaking noise coming somewhere from the rear when accelerating from
the stop position while on a slight uphill incline.

Han.
Typical creaking from the rear would be from the rear trailing arm
bushings.

Bob
 
Is this an expensive item? I've recently started to hear a loud
creaking noise coming somewhere from the rear when accelerating from
the stop position while on a slight uphill incline.

Han.


Usually bad U-joints cause vibrations at certain speeds. Your problem
sounds more like worn trailing arm bushings, it's very common at that
age. I would replace the engine wiring harness as a preventative item
because when it crumbles enough (and if it's original it's already
started) the car will start behaving very strangely and then it will
just die and refuse to start eventually. '89 I think is when they
updated it with better insulation.
 
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