Water pump

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by not hereplease, Nov 16, 2003.

  1. 1988 740 GL ESTATE

    I have a very slight water leak near the water pump.
    I assume that the water pump is leaking.
    I do not want to change just seals would prefer to change the whole water
    pump.
    What can go wrong if I leave it a week or two before fixing.
    What is the cost of a water pump in the UK.
     
    not hereplease, Nov 16, 2003
    #1
  2. Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, not
    Good plan
    Not much. Obviously keep an eye on the water level though. In the
    longer term, water leaking into the bearing will knacker it, with a
    slight chance of it seizing, but this is really quite unlikely.
    20 ukp or thereabouts. Try

    http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

    http://www.eurocarparts.com/


    --

    Stewart Hargrave

    I run on beans - laser beans


    For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name
     
    Stewart Hargrave, Nov 16, 2003
    #2
  3. not hereplease

    James Sweet Guest

    Check the gasket at the top, sometimes the pump doesn't get pryed up to the
    head properly so the gasket doesn't seal and it leaks. If it's leaking from
    the shaft then replace the pump, it's fairly straightforward.
     
    James Sweet, Nov 16, 2003
    #3
  4. not hereplease

    blurp Guest

    I have to jump in on this thread to ask: is it possible (or
    worthwhile) to simply tighten the bolts on the pump when the pump
    leaks at the gasket? I suspect that it may have been used as leverage
    to pry things when adjusting/changing belts recently and thus
    dislodged or moved.

    Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a
    quarter-turn?

    Thanks,
    Blurp
     
    blurp, Nov 18, 2003
    #4
  5. The waterpump has two "gaskets". One large vertical gasket between the
    pump body and the front of the cast iron engine block. If it leaks there
    you could possibly try tightening the nuts a bit. Most likely you need a
    new gasket.

    An outlet from the pump goes straigt up into the cylinder head. There is
    a rubber ring there which needs the pump to press upward againt the head
    in order not to leak. For this reason the bolt holes in the pump body
    are oval. You loosen the nuts holding the pump. Then pry the pump
    upwards with a suitable tool. Tighten nuts while still prying. If this
    smaller rubber ring starts leaking you could in theory loosen the pump
    and increase its upward pressure towards the rubber ring. With an old
    gasket against the block, I think it will start leaking there instead.

    My recommendation: If it leaks from either gaskets, buy both the ring
    and the large gasket. Remove pump and scrape away all gasket pieces.
    Replace rubber ring and gasket and perform the prying/tightening
    procedure as above. If you are unsure of the source of the leak, get a
    new pump while at it. They don't cost a fortune (not here in Sweden at
    least).


    --
    Gunnar

    240 Turbo Wagon '84 200 K Miles
    940 Wagon '92 150 K Miles
    on Swedish roads
     
    Gunnar Eikman, Nov 18, 2003
    #5
  6. not hereplease

    James Sweet Guest

    They don't cost a fortune anywhere, but they certainly aren't as cheap as in
    Sweden, I envie the cheap cost of Volvo parts there.
     
    James Sweet, Nov 19, 2003
    #6
  7. not hereplease

    Alex Zepeda Guest

    There's also a little gasket of sorts on the heater hose that can get
    sliced upon installation.

    The gaskets aren't that expensive.. as long as you avoid the dealer. I
    think that the dealer here wanted about $15 for the one that sits between
    the block and the water pump. Ouch. You can find the whole set for about
    $3 online.

    - alex

    '85 244 Turbo
     
    Alex Zepeda, Nov 19, 2003
    #7
  8. not hereplease

    Joe Guest

    Certainly try to tighten not excessive though, but I would just change the
    gasket and the head seal and get it over with as tightening it is more
    likely not to work.
    Good Luck Joe
     
    Joe, Nov 21, 2003
    #8
  9. not hereplease

    Peter Milnes Guest

    You could try tightening to the torque limit for the water pump attachment bolts
    (see manual for torque values for bolts/nuts).

    Cheers, Peter.

    :
    : : > I have to jump in on this thread to ask: is it possible (or
    : > worthwhile) to simply tighten the bolts on the pump when the pump
    : > leaks at the gasket? I suspect that it may have been used as leverage
    : > to pry things when adjusting/changing belts recently and thus
    : > dislodged or moved.
    : >
    : > Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a
    : > quarter-turn?
    : >
    : > Thanks,
    : > Blurp
    : >
    : Certainly try to tighten not excessive though, but I would just change the
    : gasket and the head seal and get it over with as tightening it is more
    : likely not to work.
    : Good Luck Joe
    :
    :
     
    Peter Milnes, Nov 22, 2003
    #9
  10. not hereplease

    mrhuntnpeck Guest

    if it is like the pump on the 240 and earlier engines there is that
    rubber ring at the top of the pump. I have seen those leak.

    in my experience if the pump goes it usually comes out out the hole in
    the bottom of the rounded part that juts out , leaks out by the shaft.
    you probably can't see the hole , but if you feel underneath you may
    find it, directly under the shaft for the pump.

    so if it is wet near the top of the pump I would suspectt he rubber
    ring. if its the pump itself, the top of the pump may be dry. if it
    hits the fan it might go all over making it harder to tell.

    it depends on how much time / money you have , as said earlier you may
    want to relpace the pump, depending on how old it is.
    phil
     
    mrhuntnpeck, Nov 22, 2003
    #10
  11. not hereplease

    blurp Guest

    Ok, then, here's another question: is it possible to replace the
    gasket without removing the clutch fan etc? I mean, can you undo the
    bolts and lift off the pump enough to slip a fresh gasket in and bolt
    it back on without taking everything else out? I am trying to find an
    image of the part to get an idea where the bolts are located and if
    they're accessible. My Chilton Labour Guide says 2.3 hours shop time
    but I haven't had it long enough to know if it considers shortcuts
    that might finish the job more quickly.

    I'm guessing I just have to bite the bullet and pay for the work.

    Thanks all,
    Blurp
     
    blurp, Nov 27, 2003
    #11
  12. not hereplease

    Mike F Guest

    That's probably possible, but you'd never get the surface clean enough
    so the new gasket would seal properly. And it would waste more time
    with the poorer access to everything else.
     
    Mike F, Nov 27, 2003
    #12
  13. not hereplease

    Alex Zepeda Guest

    It is possible (I had to do this on my sedan when the nuts wouldn't come
    off the studs), but it's hardly a short cut. Lots of swearing, banging,
    and pulling on the water pump. The fan doesn't get in the way, but the
    pulley does.

    Really, pulling the water pump is pretty easy. Just pull the fan/shroud,
    and you're done.

    - alex

    '85 244 Turbo
     
    Alex Zepeda, Nov 28, 2003
    #13
  14. not hereplease

    sno Guest

    You might want to try some of the silicon gasket
    stuff you can buy....pull out the old gasket and
    squirt some of the stuff from the tube in....
    do not remember exactly what the name is...

    When I have used it, I tighten the bolts down until
    the stuff squeezed out....then left sit overnight,
    to harden well...and tightened down about one/two
    turns more.....

    Once used it on a pump that I had lost the gasket
    for....worked well....

    good luck....steve
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    sno, Nov 28, 2003
    #14
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