Water pump

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not hereplease

1988 740 GL ESTATE

I have a very slight water leak near the water pump.
I assume that the water pump is leaking.
I do not want to change just seals would prefer to change the whole water
pump.
What can go wrong if I leave it a week or two before fixing.
What is the cost of a water pump in the UK.
 
Because there's more to the internet than hits alone, not
hereplease@not here.com said:
1988 740 GL ESTATE

I have a very slight water leak near the water pump.
I assume that the water pump is leaking.
I do not want to change just seals would prefer to change the whole water
pump.
Click to expand...

Good plan
What can go wrong if I leave it a week or two before fixing.
Click to expand...

Not much. Obviously keep an eye on the water level though. In the
longer term, water leaking into the bearing will knacker it, with a
slight chance of it seizing, but this is really quite unlikely.
What is the cost of a water pump in the UK.
Click to expand...

20 ukp or thereabouts. Try

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

http://www.eurocarparts.com/


--

Stewart Hargrave

I run on beans - laser beans


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not hereplease@not here.com said:
1988 740 GL ESTATE

I have a very slight water leak near the water pump.
I assume that the water pump is leaking.
I do not want to change just seals would prefer to change the whole water
pump.
What can go wrong if I leave it a week or two before fixing.
What is the cost of a water pump in the UK.
Click to expand...

Check the gasket at the top, sometimes the pump doesn't get pryed up to the
head properly so the gasket doesn't seal and it leaks. If it's leaking from
the shaft then replace the pump, it's fairly straightforward.
 
I have to jump in on this thread to ask: is it possible (or
worthwhile) to simply tighten the bolts on the pump when the pump
leaks at the gasket? I suspect that it may have been used as leverage
to pry things when adjusting/changing belts recently and thus
dislodged or moved.

Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a
quarter-turn?

Thanks,
Blurp
 
The waterpump has two "gaskets". One large vertical gasket between the
pump body and the front of the cast iron engine block. If it leaks there
you could possibly try tightening the nuts a bit. Most likely you need a
new gasket.

An outlet from the pump goes straigt up into the cylinder head. There is
a rubber ring there which needs the pump to press upward againt the head
in order not to leak. For this reason the bolt holes in the pump body
are oval. You loosen the nuts holding the pump. Then pry the pump
upwards with a suitable tool. Tighten nuts while still prying. If this
smaller rubber ring starts leaking you could in theory loosen the pump
and increase its upward pressure towards the rubber ring. With an old
gasket against the block, I think it will start leaking there instead.

My recommendation: If it leaks from either gaskets, buy both the ring
and the large gasket. Remove pump and scrape away all gasket pieces.
Replace rubber ring and gasket and perform the prying/tightening
procedure as above. If you are unsure of the source of the leak, get a
new pump while at it. They don't cost a fortune (not here in Sweden at
least).


--
Gunnar

240 Turbo Wagon '84 200 K Miles
940 Wagon '92 150 K Miles
on Swedish roads
 
My recommendation: If it leaks from either gaskets, buy both the ring
and the large gasket. Remove pump and scrape away all gasket pieces.
Replace rubber ring and gasket and perform the prying/tightening
procedure as above. If you are unsure of the source of the leak, get a
new pump while at it. They don't cost a fortune (not here in Sweden at
least).
Click to expand...

They don't cost a fortune anywhere, but they certainly aren't as cheap as in
Sweden, I envie the cheap cost of Volvo parts there.
 
My recommendation: If it leaks from either gaskets, buy both the ring
and the large gasket. Remove pump and scrape away all gasket pieces.
Replace rubber ring and gasket and perform the prying/tightening
procedure as above. If you are unsure of the source of the leak, get a
new pump while at it. They don't cost a fortune (not here in Sweden at
least).
Click to expand...

There's also a little gasket of sorts on the heater hose that can get
sliced upon installation.

The gaskets aren't that expensive.. as long as you avoid the dealer. I
think that the dealer here wanted about $15 for the one that sits between
the block and the water pump. Ouch. You can find the whole set for about
$3 online.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
 
blurp said:
I have to jump in on this thread to ask: is it possible (or
worthwhile) to simply tighten the bolts on the pump when the pump
leaks at the gasket? I suspect that it may have been used as leverage
to pry things when adjusting/changing belts recently and thus
dislodged or moved.

Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a
quarter-turn?

Thanks,
Blurp
Click to expand...
Certainly try to tighten not excessive though, but I would just change the
gasket and the head seal and get it over with as tightening it is more
likely not to work.
Good Luck Joe
 
You could try tightening to the torque limit for the water pump attachment bolts
(see manual for torque values for bolts/nuts).

Cheers, Peter.

:
: : > I have to jump in on this thread to ask: is it possible (or
: > worthwhile) to simply tighten the bolts on the pump when the pump
: > leaks at the gasket? I suspect that it may have been used as leverage
: > to pry things when adjusting/changing belts recently and thus
: > dislodged or moved.
: >
: > Are the engine mounts for the pump too soft or delicate for a
: > quarter-turn?
: >
: > Thanks,
: > Blurp
: >
: Certainly try to tighten not excessive though, but I would just change the
: gasket and the head seal and get it over with as tightening it is more
: likely not to work.
: Good Luck Joe
:
:
 
if it is like the pump on the 240 and earlier engines there is that
rubber ring at the top of the pump. I have seen those leak.

in my experience if the pump goes it usually comes out out the hole in
the bottom of the rounded part that juts out , leaks out by the shaft.
you probably can't see the hole , but if you feel underneath you may
find it, directly under the shaft for the pump.

so if it is wet near the top of the pump I would suspectt he rubber
ring. if its the pump itself, the top of the pump may be dry. if it
hits the fan it might go all over making it harder to tell.

it depends on how much time / money you have , as said earlier you may
want to relpace the pump, depending on how old it is.
phil
 
Ok, then, here's another question: is it possible to replace the
gasket without removing the clutch fan etc? I mean, can you undo the
bolts and lift off the pump enough to slip a fresh gasket in and bolt
it back on without taking everything else out? I am trying to find an
image of the part to get an idea where the bolts are located and if
they're accessible. My Chilton Labour Guide says 2.3 hours shop time
but I haven't had it long enough to know if it considers shortcuts
that might finish the job more quickly.

I'm guessing I just have to bite the bullet and pay for the work.

Thanks all,
Blurp
 
blurp said:
Ok, then, here's another question: is it possible to replace the
gasket without removing the clutch fan etc? I mean, can you undo the
bolts and lift off the pump enough to slip a fresh gasket in and bolt
it back on without taking everything else out? I am trying to find an
image of the part to get an idea where the bolts are located and if
they're accessible. My Chilton Labour Guide says 2.3 hours shop time
but I haven't had it long enough to know if it considers shortcuts
that might finish the job more quickly.

I'm guessing I just have to bite the bullet and pay for the work.

Thanks all,
Blurp
Click to expand...
That's probably possible, but you'd never get the surface clean enough
so the new gasket would seal properly. And it would waste more time
with the poorer access to everything else.
 
That's probably possible, but you'd never get the surface clean enough
so the new gasket would seal properly. And it would waste more time
with the poorer access to everything else.
Click to expand...

It is possible (I had to do this on my sedan when the nuts wouldn't come
off the studs), but it's hardly a short cut. Lots of swearing, banging,
and pulling on the water pump. The fan doesn't get in the way, but the
pulley does.

Really, pulling the water pump is pretty easy. Just pull the fan/shroud,
and you're done.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
 
You might want to try some of the silicon gasket
stuff you can buy....pull out the old gasket and
squirt some of the stuff from the tube in....
do not remember exactly what the name is...

When I have used it, I tighten the bolts down until
the stuff squeezed out....then left sit overnight,
to harden well...and tightened down about one/two
turns more.....

Once used it on a pump that I had lost the gasket
for....worked well....

good luck....steve
Ok, then, here's another question: is it possible to replace the
gasket without removing the clutch fan etc? I mean, can you undo the
bolts and lift off the pump enough to slip a fresh gasket in and bolt
it back on without taking everything else out? I am trying to find an
image of the part to get an idea where the bolts are located and if
they're accessible. My Chilton Labour Guide says 2.3 hours shop time
but I haven't had it long enough to know if it considers shortcuts
that might finish the job more quickly.

I'm guessing I just have to bite the bullet and pay for the work.

Thanks all,
Blurp
Click to expand...

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