Water Pump

  • Thread starter Thread starter Derek Lawler
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Derek Lawler

My 1994 940 Volvo wagon had the timing belt replaced about a year ago. Last
night I noticed a patch of oily substance on the ground under the passenger
side. Upon closer look it seems the water pump is leaking.
My question is whether I can get to it without removing a lot of other
belts. It looks like just one pulley turns it. Can that pulley be removed
to get to the water pump and then replace it and the belt? I am tempted to
have my usual mechanic do the job.
Derek Pompano Beach, Florida
 
Fan is attached to Water Pump.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).
 
Derek said:
My 1994 940 Volvo wagon had the timing belt replaced about a year ago. Last
night I noticed a patch of oily substance on the ground under the passenger
side. Upon closer look it seems the water pump is leaking.
My question is whether I can get to it without removing a lot of other
belts. It looks like just one pulley turns it. Can that pulley be removed
to get to the water pump and then replace it and the belt? I am tempted to
have my usual mechanic do the job.
Derek Pompano Beach, Florida
Click to expand...


It's pretty easy to remove, can you tell what part of the pump it's
leaking from?
 
The coolant seems to be dripping from under the water pump. A friend told me
that water pumps have a small hole in the bottom of the housing that leaks
when the pump fails in order to indicate a failing pump.
I can buy a pump from the local Fairway parts dealer for $36.00. According
to the book, the fan housing and fan has to be removed, to allow clearance I
suppose. The difficult part looks like putting the pulley back together
with the same tension on the belt, which is quite tight. How does one do
this? Thanks in advance.
 
Derek said:
The coolant seems to be dripping from under the water pump. A friend told me
that water pumps have a small hole in the bottom of the housing that leaks
when the pump fails in order to indicate a failing pump.
I can buy a pump from the local Fairway parts dealer for $36.00. According
to the book, the fan housing and fan has to be removed, to allow clearance I
suppose. The difficult part looks like putting the pulley back together
with the same tension on the belt, which is quite tight. How does one do
this? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...


Tensioning the belt is easy, there's a bolt tensioner on one of the
accessories, as I recall the alternator and power steering pump both
have them. You loosen the locking nut, crank down the tensioner bolt
until the belt feels about right, then you tighten the lock nut and back
off the tensioner a few turns.

Water pumps can leak from the shaft seal, or commonly from the rubber
seal on top between the pump and the head. Try rocking the shaft, if it
feels loose the pump is definitely bad.

$36 sounds awfully cheap, is that an OEM pump? FCP Groton sells pumps
made by the OEM, they're a bit more than $36 but FAR cheaper than actual
Volvo stamped ones from the dealer. They last longer in my experience
than the cheap generic ones.
 
regarding the belt tension... it's been my experience that most people make
the belt TOO tight. I seem to recall that it should be possible to deflect
the belt about 1/2 to 1 inch. Much looser than that and the belt slips. Much
tighter, and you put a lot of unnecessary stress on the bearing and seal.
It's a fine line, but I like to err on the side of being almost too loose.
I've never had a belt break, and my pumps and alternators last as long or
longer than anyone elses....
 
James, You were right about the bolt tensioner. I should have used a
flashlight to look but finally did see the tension adjuster on the power
steering pump pulley. It still took a lot of work to get the belt over the
pulleys, even with the tensioner out most of the way. Putting it back would
be the reverse.
I should have loosened the four pulley bolts before removing the belt so had
to use a filter wrench to hold the pulley while I broke the four bolts
loose. I thought the water pump would slide right out when I had the nut
and three bolts out of it but there is a large rubber piece ("the rubber
seal on top between the pump and the head")on top of the right side of the
pump that looks like it is connected to the timing belt cover. Do I have to
take the top of the timing belt cover off to get the pump off? I tried
rocking the shaft but it was solid. The leak must be coming from another
spot. Can the pump just be muscled out or will that destroy the rubber seal?
I looked all over the box the new pump came in and a "made in China" tag was
on the box. I guess not an OEM pump but it looks like a well finished piece
of machinery.
Derek
 
Derek said:
James, You were right about the bolt tensioner. I should have used a
flashlight to look but finally did see the tension adjuster on the power
steering pump pulley. It still took a lot of work to get the belt over the
pulleys, even with the tensioner out most of the way. Putting it back would
be the reverse.
I should have loosened the four pulley bolts before removing the belt so had
to use a filter wrench to hold the pulley while I broke the four bolts
loose. I thought the water pump would slide right out when I had the nut
and three bolts out of it but there is a large rubber piece ("the rubber
seal on top between the pump and the head")on top of the right side of the
pump that looks like it is connected to the timing belt cover. Do I have to
take the top of the timing belt cover off to get the pump off? I tried
rocking the shaft but it was solid. The leak must be coming from another
spot. Can the pump just be muscled out or will that destroy the rubber seal?
I looked all over the box the new pump came in and a "made in China" tag was
on the box. I guess not an OEM pump but it looks like a well finished piece
of machinery.
Derek
Click to expand...


Yes you have to remove the top section of the timing belt cover, it
blocks part of the pump. There's a screw at the top from the back side,
and then a few bolts through the front. Be careful not to crank them
down too tight when you put them back in, it's easy to shear the bolts.

The belts are not terribly difficult, they should pop right off once you
get things loosened up.
 
More like ¼ to ½ inch deflection. More than that is too loose.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).
 
Now I understand why folks have the water pump replaced when doing a timing
belt change. The bottom part of the timing belt cover captures the lower
flange of the water pump, so now I have to take off all the belts, get the
pulley off the crankshaft to get the lower cover off. I assume I can leave
the timing belt in situ without changing the position of the pulley, if
possible. Here I thought I was going to have an easy time of it. Seems I
have dug a deeper hole for myself. In fact the "new" water pump doesn't
look quite like the original one but I will see better when I get the old
pump off. The Chilton book I was consulting makes it look too easy---no
mention of even removing the top timing belt cover. Arghh!
Derek
 
Derek said:
Now I understand why folks have the water pump replaced when doing a timing
belt change. The bottom part of the timing belt cover captures the lower
flange of the water pump, so now I have to take off all the belts, get the
pulley off the crankshaft to get the lower cover off. I assume I can leave
the timing belt in situ without changing the position of the pulley, if
possible. Here I thought I was going to have an easy time of it. Seems I
have dug a deeper hole for myself. In fact the "new" water pump doesn't
look quite like the original one but I will see better when I get the old
pump off. The Chilton book I was consulting makes it look too easy---no
mention of even removing the top timing belt cover. Arghh!
Derek
Click to expand...


Wait, lower cover? The lower cover should be able to stay in place, the
upper cover does have to come off though, at least that's how it is in
the B23 I did a couple weeks ago. Does the cover really block it on a B230?

Chilton manuals are worthless, they tend to cover multiple models
through decades and don't cover anything very well. Get a Haynes or
Bentley for your specific car, they're far more concise.
 
Here's what I found: As I looked closer at the bottom part of the timing
belt cover I noticed it was not integral with the inner part but held in
place by the bolt on my left, that covered the flange of the water pump and
feeling around and using the flashlight I found a bolt holding the other
side of the lower cover at the bottom. I got a 12mm wrench on it and
loosened it then unscrewed it with my fingers. The bottom cover was now
jiggling around loose (hopes raised again). HOWEVER: the lips of the cover
are grooved and could not be pulled apart enough to slide it up and out as
it is tight up against the pulley. At this point I realize the crankshaft
pulley does have to come off (or be slid back 1/4" ?) to get the lower cover
off, meaning that the other two belts on the alternator and AC pump had to
be removed. I am leery of taking off the crankshaft pulley and misaligning
its relation to the timing belt. Is the bolt or nut a left hand thread?
Will have to muddle through---good thing I am retired.
Derek
 
Derek said:
Here's what I found: As I looked closer at the bottom part of the timing
belt cover I noticed it was not integral with the inner part but held in
place by the bolt on my left, that covered the flange of the water pump and
feeling around and using the flashlight I found a bolt holding the other
side of the lower cover at the bottom. I got a 12mm wrench on it and
loosened it then unscrewed it with my fingers. The bottom cover was now
jiggling around loose (hopes raised again). HOWEVER: the lips of the cover
are grooved and could not be pulled apart enough to slide it up and out as
it is tight up against the pulley. At this point I realize the crankshaft
pulley does have to come off (or be slid back 1/4" ?) to get the lower cover
off, meaning that the other two belts on the alternator and AC pump had to
be removed. I am leery of taking off the crankshaft pulley and misaligning
its relation to the timing belt. Is the bolt or nut a left hand thread?
Will have to muddle through---good thing I am retired.
Derek
Click to expand...


Well yeah, you do need to take all the belts off, but you shouldn't have
to remove the timing belt. Seems like the only time I've removed the
crank pully is to do the timing belt. If the car is an automatic it's
tricky to lock the crank to remove the pully but what I've done is put a
bit ratchet on it (22mm bolt IIRC) and wedge the ratchet handle
against the water pump and bump the starter, that'll loosen it right up.
The timing belt sprocket is separate and is keyed on the shaft so you
won't mess that up.

The lower cover circles the crankshaft so if you do in fact have to
fully remove it, you have to remove the pully. I wish someone who's done
this recently could confirm it though because I don't recall removing
the lower cover to do the pump.
 
The lower cover does not have to come off to change water pump. Steps are as
follows. 1) disconnect negative battery lead. 2) REmove accessory drive
belts as necessary for access to water pump pulley. 3) Drain cooling system.
4) Remove radiator and fan shroud. 5) Remove fan fromthe water pump then
remove water pump pulley. 6) Disconnect radiator bottom hose and heater pipe
from the pump. 7) Unbolt the water pump, slide it downwards and remove it.
8) Clean away all traces of sealant and old gasket from the mating faces. 9)
remove old pump top sealing ring. Refit new pump, gasket, top sealing ring
and heater pipe seal. 10) Replace in reverse order to dismantling procedure.

All done without removing ANY covers.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).
 
Peter said:
The lower cover does not have to come off to change water pump. Steps are as
follows. 1) disconnect negative battery lead. 2) REmove accessory drive
belts as necessary for access to water pump pulley. 3) Drain cooling system.
4) Remove radiator and fan shroud. 5) Remove fan fromthe water pump then
remove water pump pulley. 6) Disconnect radiator bottom hose and heater pipe
from the pump. 7) Unbolt the water pump, slide it downwards and remove it.
8) Clean away all traces of sealant and old gasket from the mating faces. 9)
remove old pump top sealing ring. Refit new pump, gasket, top sealing ring
and heater pipe seal. 10) Replace in reverse order to dismantling procedure.

All done without removing ANY covers.
Click to expand...



I'm almost positive you have to remove the upper cover, I know I did on
the B23 I replaced the pump on a couple weeks ago. The cover was over
one edge of the water pump.
 
Thanks to all of you that responded to my questions.
The Volvo in question is a 1994 940 wagon, non-turbo.
Today I pulled off the water pump, scraping my arm as I did so.
The way I did it was to bend the lower cover over far enough to let the pump
slide past it. This could not have been done without removing the two bolts
securing the cover. I had enough wiggle room to push it over out of the
way.
According to my owners manual my engine is a B 230 F/FD and does not have
the fan connected to the water pump, nor did I have to move the electric fan
and housing. I also saw no reason to disconnect the battery or drain the
whole cooling system. I did lose some power steering fluid when I pulled
the hose off the pump to get at the belt adjustment screw.
Now comes the meticulous work of fitting the new pump in place with all its
neoprene grommets, o rings etc.. This will be the fun part of the job.
Thanks again. I am going to look for a comprehensive shop manual for this
car.
Derek
 
Derek Lawler said:
Now comes the meticulous work of fitting the new pump in place with all its
neoprene grommets, o rings etc.. This will be the fun part of the job.
Click to expand...
[ ... ]

Lubricate the grommets, o-rings, and anything else that needs to slide
into place with silicone grease to ease assembly. Don't use any petroleum
based grease, it would degrade the seals.


Gary
 
Gary Heston дµÀ£º
Derek Lawler said:
Now comes the meticulous work of fitting the new pump in place with all its
neoprene grommets, o rings etc.. This will be the fun part of the job.
Click to expand...
[ ... ]

Lubricate the grommets, o-rings, and anything else that needs to slide
into place with silicone grease to ease assembly. Don't use any petroleum
based grease, it would degrade the seals.


Gary

--
Gary Heston [email protected] http://www.thebreastcancersite.com/

Astronomers have developed a definition of "planet" which excludes Pluto.
I'm developing a definition of "scientist" which excludes astronomers.
Click to expand...
 
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