wiper linkeage cable

  • Thread starter Thread starter jd
  • Start date Start date
J

jd

Is there a technique of getting the wire within the linkeage arm easily
around the cog? I've just spent two hours trying to do it and I'm SURE
there is probably a simple way of doing it but the logic of it escapes
me!
Thanks
JD
 
jd said:
Is there a technique of getting the wire within the linkeage arm easily
around the cog? I've just spent two hours trying to do it and I'm SURE
there is probably a simple way of doing it but the logic of it escapes
me!

you didn't mention the car model or year, but if you are talking about
the thin stainless steel wire that wraps around the cam, I found it a
lot easer to work on the 960's mechanism after removing it from the
car. Depending on the car that may or may not be a viable option.:

BEFORE PROCEEDING, DISCONNECT BATTERY OR DISCONNECT WIPER MOTOR PLUG.
If the motor starts while you are working on it, the machanish has
enough force to remove fingers!!! I can still count to 21 without
external assistance and intend on keping it that way.


1) Use a small screwdriver in the slot of the threaded end of the
cable to hold the cable and remove the nut at the end of the cable
(6mm wrench I think as I remember). Do not allow the cable to roatate
more than about 1/4 to 1/2 turn or it can be damaged or weakened.
2) examine the cam to be sure it is sound. Use plastic epoxy to repair
or strengthen if necessary (if it is plastic).
3) examine the end of the actuating arm (where the end of the cable
goes through). These can collapse and/or become deformed. The end must
be square and the sides and bottom of the arm parallel or
perpendicular. If malformed, reform with needle nose pliers or other
suitable tool. I used a little JB weld as an external fillet to hold
it in shape to prevent further deformation. The cable puts a lot of
stress on that part, and if the end deforms it allows the cable to
loosen and it can come off! but you already know that...
4) The cable goes around the cam, and when tightened it not only
causes the cam to rotate, but also holds the cam TIGHT inside the
channel.
5) Use a little non-permanent thread locker on the nut, and while
holding the cvable as in step 1, tighten the nut. The cable must be
tight.

I have had to do two repairs to the 960's mechanism- the driver's side
actuating arm broke in half(!) and I was able to solder that back
together with a reinforcing piece of metal, and the passenger's side
actuating arm had the end deform as described above.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Back
Top