1992 Volvo 940

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kim Slyns
  • Start date Start date
K

Kim Slyns

Help!! I'm tearing my hair out to find the reason for my 940 stalling in
very hot weather.It happens every summer when the temp gets around 40c. I
assume its's caused by vapour locks. If you open the bonnet and let it cool
for 15 mins it runs ok for a few kms before it happens again.
All other times it runs perfectly. I have "googled " this problem with no
real concrete answers. I can only think of getting the fuel pumps replaced
to possibly cure this problem, but I would hate to go to that expense and
not getting a fix.
All ideas welcome!!!!
 
Kim said:
Help!! I'm tearing my hair out to find the reason for my 940 stalling in
very hot weather.It happens every summer when the temp gets around 40c. I
assume its's caused by vapour locks. If you open the bonnet and let it cool
for 15 mins it runs ok for a few kms before it happens again.
All other times it runs perfectly. I have "googled " this problem with no
real concrete answers. I can only think of getting the fuel pumps replaced
to possibly cure this problem, but I would hate to go to that expense and
not getting a fix.
All ideas welcome!!!!
Click to expand...

I seem to recall something about ignition power stages (think
ignition coil, but different construction) failing from heat. Hopefully
someone will confirm this.
 
The Ignition Amplifier is located between the air filter box and the inner
wing skin. It usually has problems caused by it's earthing as it is mounted
on a "heat-sink". Cleaning the connector and also the heat sink will often
cure this problem. The amplifier is driven from the ICU and bumps up the
power to drive the coil.
All the best, Peter.
 
Leftie said:
I seem to recall something about ignition power stages (think
ignition coil, but different construction) failing from heat. Hopefully
someone will confirm this.
Click to expand...


The ignition amplifier is the electronic module that takes the logic
level signal from the ignition computer and switches power to the
ignition coil. When they fail, they do usually cause occasional stalling
at first. A way to tell is that the tach needle will fall like a rock
when the engine stalls.
 
If the in tank pump fails the engine gets little fuel and if the tank is
low your in trouble happened in my wifes car
 
Thanks to all for your help. The problem is still "work in progress" but at
least I have some clues to go by.
 
yea...i think you have two fuel pumps...on in the tank and
one under the drivers seat...acessed from crawling under the
car...i used to have to tap mine every once and a while to
bump it a bit into running ok...this, the one under the drivers
seat...i think we could tell it was not right by pulling a fuel line
and seeing if gas was getting pumped at the right pressure....

good luck...
 
~^ beancounter ~^ said:
yea...i think you have two fuel pumps...on in the tank and
one under the drivers seat...acessed from crawling under the
car...i used to have to tap mine every once and a while to
bump it a bit into running ok...this, the one under the drivers
seat...i think we could tell it was not right by pulling a fuel line
and seeing if gas was getting pumped at the right pressure....

good luck...
Click to expand...


You can pull the return line from the pressure regulator and verify that
you have a good flow. I had a pump fail once in a way that it sounded
like it was running but it wasn't pumping any fuel. The little nubs on
the motor armature had broken off so the pump mechanism wasn't turning.
 
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