740 strut tube disassembly - please help!

  • Thread starter Thread starter newtovolvo
  • Start date Start date
N

newtovolvo

I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off for me.
I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have been
rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work for me.
I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress. A hammer and a
punch, not able to move it. Used penitrating oil with no success. I don't
have oxy-acetlene, but I have tried a propane torch to heat it up some, and
have not made it work with that either. I looked at the base and do not see
anything that resembles a snap ring to try to get it out from the bottom as
directions on brickboard suggest is possible. The tube appears to be a
press fit in to the casting at the bottom where the caliper, ball joint,
tie rod all attach, can anyone confirm that it is pressed in place?


My remaining concern is to not get so physical with the tube to the point
that it changes shape and becomes not useable. the nut is not exactly in
it's original shape anymore, since the insert came with a new nut, I only
care enough about the old nut to get it off. Don't know why it is called a
nut, it has threads on the outside!

I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has been there and how you
did it.
Thanks so much for any help.

(naturally I expected this to go a little more smoothly than it has and
my primary transportaion is a bit tied up right now.)
 
newtovolvo said:
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off for me.
I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have been
rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work for me.
I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress. A hammer and a
punch, not able to move it. Used penitrating oil with no success. I don't
have oxy-acetlene, but I have tried a propane torch to heat it up some, and
have not made it work with that either. I looked at the base and do not see
anything that resembles a snap ring to try to get it out from the bottom as
directions on brickboard suggest is possible. The tube appears to be a
press fit in to the casting at the bottom where the caliper, ball joint,
tie rod all attach, can anyone confirm that it is pressed in place?


My remaining concern is to not get so physical with the tube to the point
that it changes shape and becomes not useable. the nut is not exactly in
it's original shape anymore, since the insert came with a new nut, I only
care enough about the old nut to get it off. Don't know why it is called a
nut, it has threads on the outside!

I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has been there and how you
did it.
Thanks so much for any help.

(naturally I expected this to go a little more smoothly than it has and
my primary transportaion is a bit tied up right now.)
Click to expand...


The only way I've ever been able to get these off is with an impact wrench,
that makes quick work of it.
 
newtovolvo said:
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off for me.
I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have been
rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work for me.
I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress........[snip]
Click to expand...

First, are you using a big vise? One key it to keep the tube
stationary otherwise the effort is just going into moving the tube
about instead of moving the nut.

As I remember, I used a very large pipe wrench, pulling on it while
tightening the vise until the nut gave way.

It could be your efforts have actially compressed the nut enough to
actually make it toghter. If things get desperate, there is always the
Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Cut about 2/3 the way through the nut
(possibly in more than one place) and then use a good, sharp chisel in
the groove to break it off. You could also gring through the top edge,
all around the nut, so that the top of it falls off, then remove the
cartridge and deal with the rest of the nut.

As you stated, since you have replace nuts, destroying the existing
nut seems like the way to go.



__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off for me.
I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have been
rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work for me.
I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress. A hammer and a
punch, not able to move it. Used penitrating oil with no success. I don't
have oxy-acetlene, but I have tried a propane torch to heat it up some, and
have not made it work with that either. I looked at the base and do not see
anything that resembles a snap ring to try to get it out from the bottom as
directions on brickboard suggest is possible. The tube appears to be a
press fit in to the casting at the bottom where the caliper, ball joint,
tie rod all attach, can anyone confirm that it is pressed in place?


My remaining concern is to not get so physical with the tube to the point
that it changes shape and becomes not useable. the nut is not exactly in
it's original shape anymore, since the insert came with a new nut, I only
care enough about the old nut to get it off. Don't know why it is called a
nut, it has threads on the outside!

I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has been there and how you
did it.
Thanks so much for any help.

(naturally I expected this to go a little more smoothly than it has and
my primary transportaion is a bit tied up right now.)
Click to expand...

I used a mig welder and welded a large nut, 1" to the top of the gland
nut. Just the heat from welding the nut broke the bead and the nut
came off easily.

On another note, I got a strut insert from Volvo dealer and a gland
nut wasn't included. Anyone know these gland nuts can be found?
 
newtovolvo said:
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the
spring off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new
insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off
for me. I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have
been rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work
for me. I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no
progress........[snip]
Click to expand...

First, are you using a big vise? One key it to keep the tube
stationary otherwise the effort is just going into moving the tube
about instead of moving the nut.

As I remember, I used a very large pipe wrench, pulling on it while
tightening the vise until the nut gave way.

It could be your efforts have actially compressed the nut enough to
actually make it toghter. If things get desperate, there is always the
Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Cut about 2/3 the way through the nut
(possibly in more than one place) and then use a good, sharp chisel in
the groove to break it off. You could also gring through the top edge,
all around the nut, so that the top of it falls off, then remove the
cartridge and deal with the rest of the nut.

As you stated, since you have replace nuts, destroying the existing
nut seems like the way to go.



__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...

I have a medium size vise , 4" as I recall. It is burried but I will
unearth it and give it a try. I realized it was difficult for my helper to
hold it steady while I used 2 pipe wrenches. I have an 18" pipe wrench and
a tube I can add for a bit of extra lever arm.

I don't have a high opinion of my skills with a dremel tool, I may get
experienced if it comes to that.

Thank you for your reply!
Open to other suggestions/ideas too
 
The only way I've ever been able to get these off is with an impact
wrench, that makes quick work of it.
Click to expand...

I wonder what the tool that fits on the impact wrench looks like for this
"nut"? The nut is about 2" in diameter, and has 4 small notches at 0,
90,180, & 270 degrees and there is the center pin from the strut sticking
out of the middle of this "nut" about 4". Is your suggestion refering to a
nut the fits this description?

Thank you for your reply also
Open to other suggestions/ideas too
 
newtovolvo said:
I have a medium size vise , 4" as I recall. It is burried but I will
unearth it and give it a try. I realized it was difficult for my helper to
hold it steady while I used 2 pipe wrenches. I have an 18" pipe wrench and
a tube I can add for a bit of extra lever arm.

I don't have a high opinion of my skills with a dremel tool, I may get
experienced if it comes to that.

Thank you for your reply!
Open to other suggestions/ideas too
Click to expand...

My cousin use to own a Honda car repair shop. The Hondas had sealed
struts that were one piece- that is, the strut tube WAS the shock, and
when it needed replacement you had to buy an entire strut. Koni (and
others, I suppose) came up with a replacement cartridge like you are
installing, but to use it you had to remove the guts of the old strut.
Becasue the internals were under spring tension, the way they did it
was to position a garbage can under a bench grinder. The mechanic
would aim the strut towards the can while grinding the end of the
strut off (where your nut is). Eventually enough of the strut end was
removed that WHAM, the end of the strut popped off and all the guts
(spring, valves, oil) would be expelled with great force into the
trash can. It was exciting to watch.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
[email protected] wrote in
I used a mig welder and welded a large nut, 1" to the top of the gland
nut. Just the heat from welding the nut broke the bead and the nut
came off easily.

On another note, I got a strut insert from Volvo dealer and a gland
nut wasn't included. Anyone know these gland nuts can be found?
Click to expand...

You are the second person who has told of the vast benifits of having and
using a welder to solve this problem!
I do like your idea of a large conventional nut welded to the existing
"nut". I could cut down the length the center rod of the strut to make it
possible for a deep impact socket to grab the added nut and use an electric
impact that I have to take this odd congomeration of nuts off.

Regarding the need for a replacement nut, I would sure try the dealer and
make sure you speak to the most expierenced parts person you can, Maybe
call more than one dealer. I would expect that they can order them, sure
hope so. I purchased inserts made by sachs. They are from germany and
included the nut. They muct know by the time you get the old nut off you
will not want to, or not be able to put it back on.

Thank you for your reply as well!
Open to other suggestions/ideas too
 
My cousin use to own a Honda car repair shop. The Hondas had sealed
struts that were one piece- that is, the strut tube WAS the shock, and
when it needed replacement you had to buy an entire strut. Koni (and
others, I suppose) came up with a replacement cartridge like you are
installing, but to use it you had to remove the guts of the old strut.
Becasue the internals were under spring tension, the way they did it
was to position a garbage can under a bench grinder. The mechanic
would aim the strut towards the can while grinding the end of the
strut off (where your nut is). Eventually enough of the strut end was
removed that WHAM, the end of the strut popped off and all the guts
(spring, valves, oil) would be expelled with great force into the
trash can. It was exciting to watch.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...

Funny you bring this up, The first strut I am working on has no pressure
left, much oil has been forced out, some on my brake caliper and flexible
lines - which I will do what I can to clean up.

I am wondering about the other side which has not leaked. Did Volvo in the
old days put an insert in the strut tube or did they simply build the
parts right in the tube as you point out that honda did? I ask as I am
wondering the best way to handle the strut that is pressureized as it will
be next?

I would think from a manufacturing and repair point of view the insert
would be simpler, but may cost a bit more in the begining.

thanks again
 
newtovolvo said:
I wonder what the tool that fits on the impact wrench looks like for this
"nut"? The nut is about 2" in diameter, and has 4 small notches at 0,
90,180, & 270 degrees and there is the center pin from the strut sticking
out of the middle of this "nut" about 4". Is your suggestion refering to a
nut the fits this description?
Click to expand...
There's always the "Moron's Impact Wrench." Lock the tube in the vise.
Attach a large vice grip to the nut. Hit Vice Grip with large deadblow
hammer. For holding the tube in a vice- wrap it tightly with a towel,
and tighten slowly until it is held enough to not turn. You may even
be able to place the tube so that some stornr protrudence on the tube
locks it on the bench to keep it from turning, and use an assistant
with a strap wrench to further hold it from spinning in the vice... Or
take it to a suspension shop and pay them to remove the nuts....


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
There's always the "Moron's Impact Wrench." Lock the tube in the vise.
Attach a large vice grip to the nut. Hit Vice Grip with large deadblow
hammer. For holding the tube in a vice- wrap it tightly with a towel,
and tighten slowly until it is held enough to not turn. You may even
be able to place the tube so that some stornr protrudence on the tube
locks it on the bench to keep it from turning, and use an assistant
with a strap wrench to further hold it from spinning in the vice... Or
take it to a suspension shop and pay them to remove the nuts....


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...

I am have access to a ride today, sunday, for sure. Monday when shops are
open, my access to a ride is less certain. I hate to feel like I have given
up and have a shop do it, but that is something I have considered and
contine to keep in mind.

Do you know, on an original from the factory strut, will I find an insert
on a 90 740?
 
newtovolvo said:
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.
Click to expand...

I find the best way to loosen the central nut holding the shockinsert in
the strut is to loosen it (DON'T remove it before you have compressed
the spring!) with a large (30-40")pipewrench while the strut is still in
the car. (suspension at full droop) Loosen the brakehose support, and
you can swing the complete stut outwards while still attached to the
lower suspensionarm.
 
I find the best way to loosen the central nut holding the shockinsert in
the strut is to loosen it (DON'T remove it before you have compressed
the spring!) with a large (30-40")pipewrench while the strut is still in
the car. (suspension at full droop) Loosen the brakehose support, and
you can swing the complete stut outwards while still attached to the
lower suspensionarm.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion, I will attempt that on the second side.

What I am finding now, on the side that is off the car and is now in a vise
is that the flange that can be gripped by a pipe wrench is so thin (approx
2.5mm, 0.1") that it does not stand up to the force that is put on it with
the pipe wrench, which was happening prior to being in a vise too. What
this material simply does is yields and changes shape, or breaks a little
bit off.

So at this point it is rather distorted. I am off to get the use of a
welder and some large hex nuts that will fit the over the strut pin and
still fit the largest socket I have, and buy a new socket if I need to.

May have to buy a welder some day, have wanted one for ages, maybe now is
the time.

The rest of the process has been manageable for me as a first timer doing
struts. I have removed all the other parts in the past around the strut
base, like the caliper, rotor, ball joints, and tie rod ends. Boy I do like
those tie rod end pullers!! Position it, snug it, and within a turn the tie
rod leaps out, simply wonderful. Sure wish that this silly strut nut
would..........
 
newtovolvo said:
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off for me.
I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have been
rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work for me.
I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress. A hammer and a
punch, not able to move it. Used penitrating oil with no success. I don't
have oxy-acetlene, but I have tried a propane torch to heat it up some, and
have not made it work with that either. I looked at the base and do not see
anything that resembles a snap ring to try to get it out from the bottom as
directions on brickboard suggest is possible. The tube appears to be a
press fit in to the casting at the bottom where the caliper, ball joint,
tie rod all attach, can anyone confirm that it is pressed in place?
Click to expand...
_____
For a good review of procedures have a look at :
<http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/FrontSuspension1.html#Strut Replacement>

1) The strut insert is a replaceable item.
2) I know of five methods to remove the top retaining collar.
All of these methods require that the strut tube be clamped
securely in at least a 4" bench vice (using mild steel
protectors on jaws):
a) Use Volvo tool with the four notches that engage in
the collar.
b) Use 12" to 16" pipe wrench (with extension pipe if
needed). You will have applied top quality penetrating
oil for _a_few_days_ beforehand.
c) Heating the collar area with a torch. A propane torch
is acceptable, it just takes a long time. Let cool
to room temperature and repeat three times. Now do b).
d) Use a pneumatic cold chisel on several of the notches in
the collar. This is what the Volvo service manager used
many years ago on my 1975 Volvo 240 strut. The vibration
helps break the rust bond.
e) Weld a large nut on the collar as mentioned already. This
basically provides for a better grip on the collar,
and the heat will also aid in breaking the rust bond.

If none of the above methods do the trick, then a workshop will most
likely not be able to remove the collar. In that case, you will need to
buy a good, used strut, and transfer the bearings, rotor and caliper
from the old one.

The collar will be destroyed in the removal process. That is why you
always have to install a new one, assuming that the inside threads at
the top of the strut are not damaged by rust or mechanical deformation.
I find it amazing that your dealer did not supply a new collar. I buy
parts on-line from FCP, and the inserts i have received always came with
a new nut for the top of the insert stem, and a new collar for the strut
tube.

I have used methods b) and c) successfully on a number of occasions. I
reinstall the collar with anti-seize compound, and torque it with a 14"
pipe wrench with the strut in the vice. There is little chance of
damaging the strut tube as it is made from a very high grade steel.
While the strut is out on the bench, clean it up, apply Zero-Rust paint,
and spray paint it black with a good quality paint. Also, check the
water drain hole(s) in the lower spring dish, and clean out if plugged.
To minimize the chances of the collar rusting into place, it is
essential to keep the bellows that cover that area in good condition.

/ John
 
jch said:
_____
For a good review of procedures have a look at :
<http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/FrontSuspension1.html#Strut Replacement>

1) The strut insert is a replaceable item.
2) I know of five methods to remove the top retaining collar.
All of these methods require that the strut tube be clamped
securely in at least a 4" bench vice (using mild steel
protectors on jaws):
a) Use Volvo tool with the four notches that engage in
the collar.
b) Use 12" to 16" pipe wrench (with extension pipe if
needed). You will have applied top quality penetrating
oil for _a_few_days_ beforehand.
c) Heating the collar area with a torch. A propane torch
is acceptable, it just takes a long time. Let cool
to room temperature and repeat three times. Now do b).
d) Use a pneumatic cold chisel on several of the notches in
the collar. This is what the Volvo service manager used
many years ago on my 1975 Volvo 240 strut. The vibration
helps break the rust bond.
e) Weld a large nut on the collar as mentioned already. This
basically provides for a better grip on the collar,
and the heat will also aid in breaking the rust bond.
Click to expand...

I agree up to that point...
If none of the above methods do the trick, then a workshop will most
likely not be able to remove the collar. In that case, you will need to
buy a good, used strut, and transfer the bearings, rotor and caliper
from the old one.
Click to expand...

If the above procedures do not work, it is still very possible to cut
the collar off. A Dremel is indespensible for that. Use the Cut-off
Wheels (these are thin, red, cutting wheels- about one mm thick or
so). At high speed I have used these to cut locks, drill bits, and
once cut a stripped wheel nut off a karman Ghia 's front wheel
spindle. it may take three or four of teh wheels until you get the
hang of it, but the wheels come in little tubs of 25 I think. FULL
FACE PROTECTION is a must when using these for you as well as anyone
in the vacinity (within 20 feet or more!). They al;so throw a lot of
sparks, so fire protection and precautions am also recommended.

I would cut the perimeter of the collar near the top like opening a
tin can of peas to get the cartridge out, then cut a number of slots
down the sides of the nut until it can be removed with a chisel. Take
care not to cut the tube. Clean the threads with a power wire brush
and repaint with a thin coat of a good rust preventative paint.
The collar will be destroyed in the removal process. That is why you
always have to install a new one, assuming that the inside threads at
the top of the strut are not damaged by rust or mechanical deformation.
I find it amazing that your dealer did not supply a new collar. I buy
parts on-line from FCP, and the inserts i have received always came with
a new nut for the top of the insert stem, and a new collar for the strut
tube.

I have used methods b) and c) successfully on a number of occasions. I
reinstall the collar with anti-seize compound, and torque it with a 14"
pipe wrench with the strut in the vice. There is little chance of
damaging the strut tube as it is made from a very high grade steel.
While the strut is out on the bench, clean it up, apply Zero-Rust paint,
and spray paint it black with a good quality paint. Also, check the
water drain hole(s) in the lower spring dish, and clean out if plugged.
To minimize the chances of the collar rusting into place, it is
essential to keep the bellows that cover that area in good condition.

/ John
Click to expand...

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
 
Just removed my wifes struts, replaced the insert by belting the nut with
the u part of an open ended spanner a very solid spanner , replaced with
same method .Butchery yes but it worked .They do rust a little on the thread
by the way so pre spray it with wd40 and clean well before replacement of
locking nut .

Randy G. said:
newtovolvo said:
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the spring
off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off for
me.
I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have been
rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work for me.
I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress........[snip]
Click to expand...

First, are you using a big vise? One key it to keep the tube
stationary otherwise the effort is just going into moving the tube
about instead of moving the nut.

As I remember, I used a very large pipe wrench, pulling on it while
tightening the vise until the nut gave way.

It could be your efforts have actially compressed the nut enough to
actually make it toghter. If things get desperate, there is always the
Dremel and a cut-off wheel. Cut about 2/3 the way through the nut
(possibly in more than one place) and then use a good, sharp chisel in
the groove to break it off. You could also gring through the top edge,
all around the nut, so that the top of it falls off, then remove the
cartridge and deal with the rest of the nut.

As you stated, since you have replace nuts, destroying the existing
nut seems like the way to go.



__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Click to expand...
 
same here one strut had the nut the other didnt just ask the dealer for
another nut
 
I am working on my 740, a sedan, 1990. I have the strut out, the
spring off, and want to get the old strut parts out to put in a new
insert.

The so called "nut" on the top of the tube is simply not coming off
for me. I am following the directions on brickboard,com which have
been rather helpful so far. I found the slip joint pliers to not work
for me. I tried the pipe wrench approach and have got no progress. A
hammer and a punch, not able to move it. Used penitrating oil with no
success. I don't have oxy-acetlene, but I have tried a propane torch
to heat it up some, and have not made it work with that either. I
looked at the base and do not see anything that resembles a snap ring
to try to get it out from the bottom as directions on brickboard
suggest is possible. The tube appears to be a press fit in to the
casting at the bottom where the caliper, ball joint, tie rod all
attach, can anyone confirm that it is pressed in place?


My remaining concern is to not get so physical with the tube to the
point that it changes shape and becomes not useable. the nut is not
exactly in it's original shape anymore, since the insert came with a
new nut, I only care enough about the old nut to get it off. Don't
know why it is called a nut, it has threads on the outside!

I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has been there and
how you did it.
Thanks so much for any help.

(naturally I expected this to go a little more smoothly than it has
and my primary transportaion is a bit tied up right now.)
Click to expand...

Now reporting back to the group on my progress. I continue to work
on this during the week but am not able to do so full time like a weekend.
I did get one side done. I went with the welder approach. Yes, it does cost
more than a dremel tool. I now have a list of things to repair/make now
that I have a welder (justification/rationalization?). So for me, I think
it was the best choice. Out the door price with a welder can be a bit
costly so I am not suggesting that everyone get a welder. Lucky me, I
learned to weld ~20 years ago and found that I could make welds that are
strong and considering it is the first time in many years that I have
welded, don't look horrible either. I did 2 short practice welds for a
total of 1 or 2 minutes on some scrap to get the hang of this wire feed
welder. I had never used a welder of this type before, I do like it.

I ended up welding a large hex nut, (it was a 1.0" diameter thread & 1.5"
across the flats), on to the "gland nut". Then used a portable grinder to
cut through the center pin of the strut so that I could put the socket that
I could get over the hex nut. I could not find a socket deep enough to go
over the pin as it was, so I cut the pin. It appeard to be very high end
steel and I will try making the cut off piece in to a punch. It may not
have all the right qualities for it, but why not try it. Wear your safety
glasses till replacement eyes become available in your size and color!

With the strut in a vise and I let the electric impact tool have it's way
with this new hex nut welded to the strut nut. I first tried the pipe
wrench on the big hex nut with the strut in a vise and even with a hammer
on the pipe wrench, it was not a happening thing for me. In just a 10-20
short seconds the electric impact tool had it apart. If I was not going to
be working with a big spring and spring compressors that would have been
the moment to celebrate! Out came the old insert and in went the new!
some anti seize compound on the new nut, tighten, and it was on it's way
back in the car.

While doing this work I also did replace the tie rod end and the ball joint
on that side and will do so on the other side too. To anyone doing the ball
joint or tie rod end thing, do yourself a big, big favor, and
rent/borrow/purchase a puller. These are often available under the general
name of a pitman puller (which I used for the ball joint) and a tie rod end
puller for the tie rod end. With these pullers, once the nut is off, within
seconds, these parts are off, literally leaping out of their tapered
mounting points, at least they did for me. My wife was shocked how quick it
was compared to the last time when I used the pickle fork. The puller is
far superior in effort (or lack of it) and time.

I did carefully disassemble the bearing in the top of the strut (very easy
to do) and repacked it with bearing grease. It had grease but was clearly
dry. I know it does not move much, but grease is the least expensive thing
on the list so I packed it.

I will severely limit the driving I do until I get the other strut done
this week or weekend, and the front end aligned as soon as I am done. I put
old snows on the front that I was "running through" this summer as they are
too worn for winter use, but still have legal tread. If they get ruined now
it is no loss at all to me. The snows will be replaced with new ones soon.

With one side done the drive is vastly improved. I certainly had a learning
curve on this strut procedure ( i am sure the second one will go much
faster) and am very, very grateful to all who replied with all your kind
suggestions and helpful advise and encouragement. The people who populate
this group put it at the top of usenet. I can not think of a better group.
Thank you all for your willingness to help a total stranger. I hope I can
do the same for others on subjects that I know a bit about. And thank you
all for helping me to keep my rear wheel drive Volvo on the road for what I
hope will be many years to come.
 
You might have to file a new edge to work on mine came of easy yet one had
a little rust on the tread which too a bit of force .Just make sure you
clean the tread and grease it before you reinstall as the possiblity of
cross treading would be bad news .Its really not hard I did my wifes struts
after 9 days of heart trouble so be sure its easy .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top