'86 245 intermittent won't start

Discussion in 'Volvo 240' started by Pat Quadlander, Dec 21, 2004.

  1. Youngest brother recently converted to Volvo - purchased a well kept '86 245
    with around 240,000 miles about 3 months ago.

    1 month ago, car began having intermittent problem starting. Happens when
    car is hot, or cold, or just right. But only sometimes. Battery is good.
    Spark is good. Starter is good. Seems to not be getting fuel, is his
    guess, and electrical, not mechanical. The reason electric is suspected is,
    if it was mechanical (vacuum leak, injector seal leak, weak fuel pressure
    regulator, weak fuel pump, stuck temp sensor/sender, and the like), then
    continuing to crank the starter would eventually get the car started. But
    continued cranking does not get car started. He usually waits a few minutes
    or 1/2 hour, tries to start again, and after a while this will fire right
    up. Again, this happens when he just stops for a minute, or when the car
    has sat overnight, so it doesn't seem to be temp related.

    He replaced the 2-spade fuse in the engine bay over the left wheel well, and
    situation improved, then came back. Fuse is Ok.

    Probably, this is the original wire harness. Don't know about airmassmeter.

    What are the 1st 3 things you would look for?
    Pat Quadlander, Dec 21, 2004
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  2. Pat Quadlander

    James Sweet Guest

    Fuel pump relay, the soldering cracks on the circuit board inside and the
    car won't start, this is the #1 no-start problem I've found.

    Fuse panel corrosion, happens much more readily in some climates than
    others, visual inspection is pretty easy, rolling the fuses with a finger
    will usually at least temporarily cure this.

    Hall sensor in distributor, this will cause both lack of fuel and lack of
    spark if it fails, often gets intermittant first. Easy to check by pulling
    the center wire from the distributor, and hold it near bare metal under the
    hood, crank the engine and watch for a spark.

    Another thing I've seen cause this problem is a corroded connector at the
    fuel pump under the car, twisted it around a bit and seated it firmly and
    it's been fine ever since.
    James Sweet, Dec 21, 2004
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  3. Pat Quadlander

    jg Guest

    Dunno but I have had the same the last 2 days (80 model FI) since a battery
    failed. All those failed attempts at starting might have upsset it. 3 fuses
    affect starting on mine and jiggling them seems to help, but it's too much
    of a coincidence that it only started playing up after the battery, maybe
    it's just the wait that dries the flooding out. I'm going to try changing
    jg, Dec 21, 2004
  4. Pat Quadlander

    grtdane63 Guest

    1. Rotted wiring
    2. Clean all wire harness connections and dont forget all the battery
    3. A few choice swear words.

    grtdane63, Dec 21, 2004
  5. Pat Quadlander

    Dale James Guest

    You don't say what engine he has. My 1989 760 turbo (B230FT) had the same
    intermittent problem for a couple of years. Several hundred dollars later
    (both fuel pumps, the Hall effect sender, ignition coil, ignition relay,
    fuel system relay, coolant temperature sensor, ignition power stage unit,
    plugs, wires, cap, rotor), I finally found the problem. The "charge air
    overpressure switch" (basically, a vacuum-operated on/off switch that
    monitors for excessive turbo boost) was defective, cutting off power to the
    fuel system relay (and thus the pumps), even when there was *no* boost (the
    car was not running).

    The Haynes manual for the 740 only covers through 1988, and it specifies the
    switch as being under the dash, by the pedal cluster. For some totally
    head-f*cked reason, the Volvo engineers moved the switch up under the hood
    for 1989, and MOUNTED IT TO THE COOLANT OVERFLOW TANK! Like dramatic heat
    cycling would ever affect an electronic device....

    My local dealer had never heard of this part, and IPD doesn't have it
    either. I spoke with IPD's go-to turbo guy (can't remember his name), but
    he told me that if I suspected a faulty switch, to just short across the two
    wires that go to it, and see if the car starts then. Two alligator clips
    and a scrap of wire (essentially free), and the car has not failed to start
    in many months.

    Good luck. I know it can be frustrating.

    Dale James, Dec 22, 2004
  6. Pat Quadlander

    James Sweet Guest

    He said it's an '86 245, there was only one engine available in North
    America in that car, the B230F.
    James Sweet, Dec 22, 2004
  7. Pat Quadlander

    tacman Guest

    I'm having the same problem with my 850SE 20 valve 1994 model. I'll try out
    some of these solutions. Thanks.
    tacman, Jan 2, 2005
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