Borken fuel line fuel distributor to injector 240

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike Ajemian
  • Start date Start date
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Mike Ajemian

I borked (snapped) the #1 line at the injector on my '85 GLT (CI) last night
trying to change the injector seals. Put a wrench on it, turned and it
snapped. Smacking forehead, what a maroon, what an embezzle, forgot the
penetrating oil. Was careful with #4, applied penetrating oil, but it looks
like it's going to snap, too. Didn't have the nerve to touch #2 and #3 so I
just applied penetrating oil to the nuts and walked away. At least I got to
change the seals on #1 and one was cracked - a true pyrrhic victory. The
Volvo dealer wants close to a c-note for each line. I'm clueless as to what
to do even with some initial Googling. While I continue looking for info,
thought I'd ask here. Anybody know of a workaround available that avoids
the dealer expense? Another source for the line? Aftermarket? Wrecking
yard? Diameter of the line (not in Bentley)? Crimp the line and forget it
ever happened?

Any help greatly appreciated,
Mike
 
I borked (snapped) the #1 line at the injector on my '85 GLT (CI) last night
trying to change the injector seals. Put a wrench on it, turned and it
snapped. Smacking forehead, what a maroon, what an embezzle, forgot the
penetrating oil. Was careful with #4, applied penetrating oil, but it looks
like it's going to snap, too. Didn't have the nerve to touch #2 and #3 so I
just applied penetrating oil to the nuts and walked away. At least I got to
change the seals on #1 and one was cracked - a true pyrrhic victory. The
Volvo dealer wants close to a c-note for each line. I'm clueless as to what
to do even with some initial Googling. While I continue looking for info,
thought I'd ask here. Anybody know of a workaround available that avoids
the dealer expense? Another source for the line? Aftermarket? Wrecking
yard? Diameter of the line (not in Bentley)? Crimp the line and forget it
ever happened?

Any help greatly appreciated,
Mike
Click to expand...
I think a set of lines from the junkyard might be the best option. If
you pull out the allen screw first, and lever the injectors up out of
the hole, slide that tin plate out of the way up the pipe, then you can
get a good puchase on both the nut and the injector to separate the two.
This is not a good place to heat everthing up with a torch :-)). The
rubbers and clamps around the pipes are precisely positioned to damp
engine and injector pulse vibrations so that they don't fatigue crack
the pipes at the connectors.

Bob
 
I too have had that problem, and addressed it by getting some from the
U Pull It in Damascus, Oregon. Still some there IIRC.

Another sourece for that and anything else: IPD's annual GARAGE SALE
and use parts vendors galore, Saturday 5-20-06, Portland, Oregon.
 
I think a set of lines from the junkyard might be the best option. If
you pull out the allen screw first, and lever the injectors up out of
the hole, slide that tin plate out of the way up the pipe, then you can
get a good puchase on both the nut and the injector to separate the two.
This is not a good place to heat everthing up with a torch :-)). The
rubbers and clamps around the pipes are precisely positioned to damp
engine and injector pulse vibrations so that they don't fatigue crack
the pipes at the connectors.

Bob
Click to expand...

Your advice is just the kind of sage wisdom one learns *after* following the
directions in the manual that says to pull the nut holding the fuel line
first. Is it too late to point out there's a small bug in the manual? If
there was more length on the nipple end, I'd duct tape it. Sure I can't
weld it? I'll have the torch out anyway :)

Turns out I didn't have to duct-tape, epoxy or weld the line as I was able
to order a used set from Voluparts for less than the cost of one at the
dealer. Will probably install a new set of injectors to go with the seals
so I can make this problem go away for awhile.

Mike
 
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