Don't take your Volvo to a general purpose shop, use a specialist,either dealer or independent

[John Horner]

I don't know how many times people who are not really familiar with
Volvos have made a hash of things or cost customers lots of extra money,
but the problem is quite large.

Every vehicle has it's quirks and you want someone working on yours who
is familiar with them.

For example, many FWD and AWD Volvos suffer from failed ABS control
modules. A tech reading out error codes would be told by the computer
that a wheel sensor or other component is bad. However, the problem is
usually that an internal trace in the controller has gone bad and it is
the trace which connects to said sensor. Thus the error codes are
simply wrong. To make matters worse, this failure mode is
intermittent so that it is quite possible to replace the wheel sensor
$$$$, clear the codes and have the ABS light go off .... only to come on
again a few days later. Volvo techs know this and aren't going to piss
away your money replacing perfectly good sensors.

I could go on and one with such stories, but the point is simple. There
are also issues of using correct fluids for the various systems, knowing
which aftermarket parts are acceptable and which are junk, etc. etc. If
you aren't going to learn to do it yourself either find a Volvo dealer
you trust or an independent specialist who works on Volvos all the time.
These shops are out there and are worth looking for.


Cheers,
John

 

[Mr. V]

Keep an eye on the morons who tow your Volvo if you break down, too.

One time a tow driver tried to tow my wife's 740 by hooking the lift to
the FRONT, not the back.

When asked him "WTF are you doing?" he said he thought it was FWD.

Stupidity is rampant, people: take the necessary precautions.

 

[M. Fricker]

Keep an eye on the morons who tow your Volvo if you break down, too.

One time a tow driver tried to tow my wife's 740 by hooking the lift to
the FRONT, not the back.

When asked him "WTF are you doing?" he said he thought it was FWD.

Stupidity is rampant, people: take the necessary precautions.

Assume some responsibility for your self. Don't blame other people
because you think they are going to know about your car. Before having
a car towed, read your manual; the tow truck operator won't do that for
you. Just be glad if you get one that can read English. In case you
don't know it, all Volvo's look alike to some tow truck operators. He
may have just towed an 850 and didn't realize that a 740 was an older
model.

 

[Mr. V]

Assume some responsibility for your self. Don't blame other people
because you think they are going to know about your car. Before having
a car towed, read your manual; the tow truck operator won't do that for
you. Just be glad if you get one that can read English. In case you
don't know it, all Volvo's look alike to some tow truck operators. He
may have just towed an 850 and didn't realize that a 740 was an older
model.

One should expect a cetain level of knowledge from a "professional,"
and by definition, someone who is paid to tow my disabled car would be
deemed a professional.

C'mon, any nit-wit tow truck driver could and should look at the car
from behind: "Hello, differential!"

 

[M. Fricker]

One should expect a cetain level of knowledge from a "professional,"
and by definition, someone who is paid to tow my disabled car would be
deemed a professional.

A professional is a person that doesn't get paid for overtime. You
didn't get a professional.

C'mon, any nit-wit tow truck driver could and should look at the car
from behind: "Hello, differential!"

You thought they sent you a nit-wit! A nit-wit is a person that spends
good money for a Volvo but won't look things up in the manual.

Your manual doesn't say not to lift the front end. In fact it shows
pictures of lifting the front end. :Here is what your manual says about
towing:

# Maximum speed: 20 mph (30 km/h).
# Maximum distance with rear wheels on ground: 20 miles (30 km).

WARNING:
Never turn the key to position 0 while driving or when the car is being
towed.

Before attempting to tow the car, use the following procedure to
override the shiftlock system to move the gear selector to the neutral
position.
# Disconnect the battery
# Wait at least one minute
# Insert the key in the ignition and turn it to position 1
# Press firmly on the shiftlock override button (located near the base
of the gear selector).
# While holding the override button down, move the gear selector from
the park position.

Precautionary steps to observe when car is in tow
# Steering must be unlocked.
# Please check with state and local authorities before attempting this
type of towing, as vehicles being towed are subject to regulations
regarding maximum towing speed, length and type of towing device,
lighting, etc.
# Remember that power brake and power steering assists will not be
available when engine is inoperative. Brake pedal pressure required is 3
- 4 times above normal and greater steering effort must be exerted.
# Gear selector in position N. Check transmission oil level (see section
titled "Transmission oil").
# Maximum speed: 20 mph (30 km/h).
# Maximum distance with rear wheels on ground: 20 miles (30 km).
# If the battery is dead, it is not possible to release the gear
selector by pressing the brake pedal. Release the gear selector manually.

CAUTION:
Sling-type equipment applied at the front will damage radiator and air
conditioning lines.
It is equally important not to use slingtype equipment inside the rear
wheels: serious damage to the rear axle may result.