Drain radiator

  • Thread starter Thread starter ransley
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ransley

I need to drain some coolant out of a V40 2002, where is the plug and
is it clock or anti clock to open, I dont want to break the valve.
Previous owner has near pure antifreeze and I get little interior
heat, I checked it with a new Prestone needle gauge. It has so much
antifreeze it wont even register a %.
 
I need to drain some coolant out of a V40 2002, where is the plug and
is it clock or anti clock to open, I dont want to break the valve.
Previous owner has near pure antifreeze and I get little interior
heat, I checked it with a new Prestone needle gauge. It has so much
antifreeze it wont even register a %.
Click to expand...

Ok I found and removed some coolant from the valve, I wish this
radiator had a cap like old ones. Do I just fill the expansion tank
and it fills the radiator? Do I have to run it while watching it? How
much coolant do these 4cil hold, filling an expansion tank has me
worried I now have air in the system.
 
yep, run the motor and slowly add your coolant via the
coolant tank....once the level is stable...fill to the indicated
line in the coolant tank...drive for 30 min, check level...drive
another hour or so, dbl check level...and you should be all set...

the air should purge itself after a bit of driving...cooling, warm up,
etc...
just keep an eye on the level over the next few days and it should
become stable...
 
yep, run the motor and slowly add your coolant via the
coolant tank....once the level is stable...fill to the indicated
line in the coolant tank...drive for 30 min, check level...drive
another hour or so, dbl check level...and you should be all set...

the air should purge itself after a bit of driving...cooling, warm up,
etc...
just keep an eye on the level over the next few days and it should
become stable...




- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

thanks
 
~^ beancounter ~^ said:
yep, run the motor and slowly add your coolant via the
coolant tank....once the level is stable...fill to the indicated
line in the coolant tank...drive for 30 min, check level...drive
another hour or so, dbl check level...and you should be all set...

the air should purge itself after a bit of driving...cooling, warm up,
etc...
just keep an eye on the level over the next few days and it should
become stable...
Click to expand...


I usually squeeze the upper hose a few times once it's warmed up and
that does a good job of getting the air out. After that just check it
after a few days of normal driving to make sure everything is ok.
 
yea, puttin' the squeeze on the hose is a good idea....it keeps
the coolant moving around and gets the air moving.....
 
yea, puttin' the squeeze on the hose is a good idea....it keeps
the coolant moving around and gets the air moving.....




- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

Antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, the idiots did have
pure antifreeze in it, I put in 3 quarts of water in a 6 qt system and
now my heat comming inside is about 20 degrees hotter.
 
Don't forget to turn the heater on so the air is purged out of the core of
the heater .
yea, puttin' the squeeze on the hose is a good idea....it keeps
the coolant moving around and gets the air moving.....




- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

Antifreeze doesnt transfer heat as well as water, the idiots did have
pure antifreeze in it, I put in 3 quarts of water in a 6 qt system and
now my heat comming inside is about 20 degrees hotter.
 
Theres a red plastic bleed screw on the right hand side of the engine on a
major water hose ,just let it bleed out of there as well .When my wifes
conection on the top of the engine to the reserve tank went the way of all
plastic I used a gauge connecter which was mean't to go in series with the
hose to allow a gauge to be fitted .Then where the take off line for the
electrical fitting went in the connector I put a brass fitting allowing
water to retun to the overflow tank .It will last the life of the car and
its solid .I hear Japanese like putting pure glycol in as the engine doesn't
corrode but the temperature would go up as water and glycol 40% water 60%
glycol is best any higher glycol level lowers the effectiveness of the
glycol .
When I lived in Tasmania (down under down under )I found taxis removing
thermostats and using normal tap water .Come a very cold day and engines
blew up as the water went through the radiator too fast to cool .An expert
mechanic there only had to know what a car looked like :~)
yep, run the motor and slowly add your coolant via the
coolant tank....once the level is stable...fill to the indicated
line in the coolant tank...drive for 30 min, check level...drive
another hour or so, dbl check level...and you should be all set...

the air should purge itself after a bit of driving...cooling, warm up,
etc...
just keep an eye on the level over the next few days and it should
become stable...
 
Theres a red plastic bleed screw on the right hand side of the engine on a
major water hose ,just let it bleed out of there as well .When my wifes
conection on the top of the engine to the reserve tank went the way of all
plastic I used a gauge connecter which was mean't to go in series with the
hose to allow a gauge to be fitted .Then where the take off line for the
electrical fitting went in the connector I put a brass fitting allowing
water to retun to the overflow tank .It will last the life of the car and
its solid .I hear Japanese like putting pure glycol in as the engine doesn't
corrode but the temperature would go up as water and glycol 40% water 60%
glycol is best any higher glycol level lowers the effectiveness of the
glycol .
When I lived in Tasmania (down under down under )I found taxis removing
thermostats and using normal tap water .Come a very cold day and engines
blew up as the water went through the radiator too fast to cool .An expert
mechanic there only had to know what a car looked like :~)
yep, run the motor and slowly add your coolant via the
coolant tank....once the level is stable...fill to the indicated
line in the coolant tank...drive for 30 min, check level...drive
another hour or so, dbl check level...and you should be all set...

the air should purge itself after a bit of driving...cooling, warm up,
etc...
just keep an eye on the level over the next few days and it should
become stable...




- Show quoted text -
Click to expand...

How can a motor blow up from no thermostat, You said it goes through
to fast to cool, exactly the opposite would happen, the motor just
takes forever to warm up, I used to run no thermostat in a V8, on a 4
in winter it just wont get warm, it wont blow up. Japs use pure
glycol? on every can of antifreeze ive read it saiys dont use pure
glycol, the motor will run hotter and the trans if the cooler is in
the radiator
 
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