Heater pipe and water pump replacement.

[psyshrike]

Howdy,

87 740 GLE

Is the heater pipe brass? Should I be expecting to replace it when
replacing the pump or is this usually servicable?

I haven't found a parts supplier that has this available on the net
and there is no local volvo dealer. Anybody know where I can get this
part?

Will the coolant rot my belts if it contacts them?

-Thanks
-Matt

 

[Ken Phillips]

Howdy,

87 740 GLE

Is the heater pipe brass? Should I be expecting to replace it when
replacing the pump or is this usually servicable?

The heater bypass pipe is steel, on the water pump end, there is a rubber
seal, which should be replaced, the end of the pipe will be corroded to a
certain extent, but will probably still be good enough to seal again once
the rubber is replaced.
The new pump should come with a gasket, a seal for the top, and a seal for
the bypass pipe. The bypass pipe is held on to the back of the pump by a
small nut and bolt, the head of the bolt is a hex drive of all things!

I haven't found a parts supplier that has this available on the net
and there is no local volvo dealer. Anybody know where I can get this
part?

Will the coolant rot my belts if it contacts them?

If there is anything in your cooling system that might damage drive belts,
then is already trying to escape through all your coolant hoses with
extreme predjudice, in other words, don't worry about it!

BTW, when removing or replacing your water pump, be careful not to lose any
nuts or studs into the timing belt cover, they are a real pain to get out,
as some folk on here could testify, there a few cunning tricks to
retrieving them, some of which I would never of thought of, but I've been
lucky enough (so far) to not need them; just to be safe you could stuff
some rags down into the cover, thus blocking it up. Also when replacing the
pump, notice that some of the holes are elongated, this is to allow you to
use them to fit the pump lower on the block initially and loosely, then
lever the pump upwards into place, then pinch up the fastenings, the other
bolts will line up correctly when the pump is positioned properly.

You could also use this opportunity to check on the condition and tension of
your cambelt.

Good luck, Ken

 

[psyshrike]

Arrgh!

87 740 GLE.

While trying to put on the new fuel pump, I dropped a nut into the
lower timing belt cover. Arrgh again!

I have poked around in there with a collapsable magnetic probe. No
luck.

Anybody got any special techniques for retrieving this bugger?

-Thanks in advance
-Matt

 

[Stewart Hargrave]

While trying to put on the new fuel pump, I dropped a nut into the
lower timing belt cover. Arrgh again!

Hope you mean water pump.

Anybody got any special techniques for retrieving this bugger?

As it happens, take a look at this earlier thread:

http://tinyurl.com/5y3nw
--

Stewart Hargrave


For email, replace 'SpamOnlyToHere' with my name

 

[Peter Milnes]

Apart from taking off the crankshaft pulley and removing the lower timing belt
cover there is not a lot else you can do apart from dangling a small magnet on a
piece of string. Do not attempt to start the car with this nut unrecovered.

Cheers, Peter.

: Arrgh!
:
: 87 740 GLE.
:
: While trying to put on the new fuel pump, I dropped a nut into the
: lower timing belt cover. Arrgh again!
:
: I have poked around in there with a collapsable magnetic probe. No
: luck.
:
: Anybody got any special techniques for retrieving this bugger?
:
: -Thanks in advance
: -Matt
:
:
:
: > psyshrike wrote:
: >
: > > Howdy,
: > >
: > > 87 740 GLE
: > >
: > > Is the heater pipe brass? Should I be expecting to replace it when
: > > replacing the pump or is this usually servicable?
: >
: > The heater bypass pipe is steel, on the water pump end, there is a rubber
: > seal, which should be replaced, the end of the pipe will be corroded to a
: > certain extent, but will probably still be good enough to seal again once
: > the rubber is replaced.
: > The new pump should come with a gasket, a seal for the top, and a seal for
: > the bypass pipe. The bypass pipe is held on to the back of the pump by a
: > small nut and bolt, the head of the bolt is a hex drive of all things!
: > >
: > > I haven't found a parts supplier that has this available on the net
: > > and there is no local volvo dealer. Anybody know where I can get this
: > > part?
: > >
: > > Will the coolant rot my belts if it contacts them?
: >
: > If there is anything in your cooling system that might damage drive belts,
: > then is already trying to escape through all your coolant hoses with
: > extreme predjudice, in other words, don't worry about it!
: >
: > BTW, when removing or replacing your water pump, be careful not to lose any
: > nuts or studs into the timing belt cover, they are a real pain to get out,
: > as some folk on here could testify, there a few cunning tricks to
: > retrieving them, some of which I would never of thought of, but I've been
: > lucky enough (so far) to not need them; just to be safe you could stuff
: > some rags down into the cover, thus blocking it up. Also when replacing the
: > pump, notice that some of the holes are elongated, this is to allow you to
: > use them to fit the pump lower on the block initially and loosely, then
: > lever the pump upwards into place, then pinch up the fastenings, the other
: > bolts will line up correctly when the pump is positioned properly.
: >
: > You could also use this opportunity to check on the condition and tension of
: > your cambelt.
: >
: > Good luck, Ken

 

[bg4a]

hello,
stewart hargrove's link is very good!

i did the same. lucky for me, i had a role of magnetic tape i had for some
project. it is 1/2 inch wide. i just stuck it down there and pulled it back
out. got the nut the very first try.

bill

 

[psyshrike]

Apart from taking off the crankshaft pulley and removing the lower timing belt
cover there is not a lot else you can do apart from dangling a small magnet on a
piece of string. Do not attempt to start the car with this nut unrecovered.

Cheers, Peter.

OK,

I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might
as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and
ordered the special pulley tool from IPD.

Question:

Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)?

Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump?
Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and
then use a crescent wrench?

Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody
has to solve these problems the first time

-Thanks!
-Matt

 

[Peter Milnes]

The bolt turns CCW to undo and needs a large amount of torque to do it up. I
would imagine that there should be no reason to remove the studs if the water
pump is held on with nuts. The pump has an up-down adjustment when in place and
is pushed up and held up whilst tightening to ensure a good seal against the
head.

Cheers, Peter.

: > Apart from taking off the crankshaft pulley and removing the lower timing
belt
: > cover there is not a lot else you can do apart from dangling a small magnet
on a
: > piece of string. Do not attempt to start the car with this nut unrecovered.
: >
: > Cheers, Peter.
: >
:
: OK,
:
: I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might
: as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and
: ordered the special pulley tool from IPD.
:
: Question:
:
: Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)?
:
: Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump?
: Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and
: then use a crescent wrench?
:
: Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody
: has to solve these problems the first time
:
: -Thanks!
: -Matt

 

[Robert Dietz]

OK,

I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might
as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and
ordered the special pulley tool from IPD.

Question:

Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)?

Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump?
Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and
then use a crescent wrench?

Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody
has to solve these problems the first time

-Thanks!
-Matt

Probably the best method is to use your approach and install four new
studs. They're cheap and usually the old ones are well stretched from
the previous installer overtorquing them.

Bob

 

[psyshrike]

Hey,

Thanks for the info.

I probably should have been more general with the stud question. It
should have been:

How does one remove studs?

The water pump pulley is held to the water pump shaft with 4 studs.
They are threaded into the shaft, but go through the pulley hub with
nuts on the pulley hub side. Since there is only thread surface, I am
guessing I just put two nuts sequentially on, and then back out the
lower one to loosen, or tighten the upper one to tighten, and that the
force between the two gives me my rotational force to remove the stud.

I am guessing this is the only to do it. But is there another way to
do this or is there a special tool? This seems vaguely not-right to me
for some reason. Not sure why, so I figured I'd ask.

-Thanks in Advance
-Matt

 

[Peter Milnes]

Thanks for the explanation of which studs you were referring to. I got my wires
a little crossed. You are right to assume that the method you mentioned would be
quite useful. You just have to make sure that the two nuts are firmly tightened
against each other to clamp on the thread.

Cheers, Peter.

: Hey,
:
: Thanks for the info.
:
: I probably should have been more general with the stud question. It
: should have been:
:
: How does one remove studs?
:
: The water pump pulley is held to the water pump shaft with 4 studs.
: They are threaded into the shaft, but go through the pulley hub with
: nuts on the pulley hub side. Since there is only thread surface, I am
: guessing I just put two nuts sequentially on, and then back out the
: lower one to loosen, or tighten the upper one to tighten, and that the
: force between the two gives me my rotational force to remove the stud.
:
: I am guessing this is the only to do it. But is there another way to
: do this or is there a special tool? This seems vaguely not-right to me
: for some reason. Not sure why, so I figured I'd ask.
:
: -Thanks in Advance
: -Matt
:
:
: > The bolt turns CCW to undo and needs a large amount of torque to do it up. I
: > would imagine that there should be no reason to remove the studs if the
water
: > pump is held on with nuts. The pump has an up-down adjustment when in place
and
: > is pushed up and held up whilst tightening to ensure a good seal against the
: > head.
: >
: > Cheers, Peter.
: >
: > : > : > : > Apart from taking off the crankshaft pulley and removing the lower
timing
: > belt
: > : > cover there is not a lot else you can do apart from dangling a small
magnet
: > on a
: > : > piece of string. Do not attempt to start the car with this nut
unrecovered.
: > : >
: > : > Cheers, Peter.
: > : >
: > :
: > : OK,
: > :
: > : I'm going to go ahead and pull the crankshaft pulley. Figure I might
: > : as well change all the belts while I'm in there. Went ahead and
: > : ordered the special pulley tool from IPD.
: > :
: > : Question:
: > :
: > : Which way does this pulley bolt turn to loosen? Is it normal, (CCW)?
: > :
: > : Also whats the best way to remove the studs from the old water pump?
: > : Do I just put two nuts on, one after the other to provide tension, and
: > : then use a crescent wrench?
: > :
: > : Perhaps I have exposed my niavity as a mechanic. But hey, everybody
: > : has to solve these problems the first time
: > :
: > : -Thanks!
: > : -Matt

 

[psyshrike]

Howdy,

B230F, 87 740 GLE.

Well I took the crankshaft pulley off, and got the nut I dropped back
in there. Went easier than I expected.

I noticed there is a slot on the back of the pulley and another one
against the end of crankshaft where it bolts up to. There was
however, no key that fit in that slot. (Is "key" the correct
terminology?)

Should there be one? If so is this supposed to be copper or steel or
what?

-Thanks
-Matt

 

[scram]

You can buy steel key stock at the hardware store, In the USofA I would
probably buy some thicker than I needed and file it down because I don't
think you will find metric there.