If I will damage the transmission driving with the overdrive on, until repaired ASAP.

It's unlikely. I think you mean the OD is locked out (that's what the
yellow light means), so 3rd is your highest gear. You'll use a lot more
fuel and you'll rev the motor harder, which in the short term could be
beneficial. Longer term you'll increase engine wear a little because
it's constantly spinning faster.

--
Cheers

Andrew

<--- Remove The NO and SPAM When Replying --->

 

I will be forced to drive in 3rd gear until I can find why the
overdrive in my 86 240 DL Volvo is stuck in the ON position.
The (automatic transmission) gear shift knob has the on off button for
overdrive. The yellow arrow light stay on. This just started an hour
ago, and I was forced to drive relatively slowly on the freeway to get
to my mom's house.
I will have to drive a distance to a repair shop etc. I will obviously
try to stay below the red 60 mph (approx) line.
I hear a click when trying to disengage the shift column OD button, so
I don't know if is the overdrive relay. It is possible that a wire is
frayed in the engine area. My transmission is well cared for and seems
to work fine. 1986 240 DL (only) 89K miles.
I do not need to use OD in my driving, I would be happy to disable it
permanently. I will try to find out what is wrong ASAP.

But in the meantime, am I doing damage to the transmission ???

 

Yikes, I had that reversed. I possibly reduced the response potential
by the poor reversal of concept in the posting.
Thanks, I don't plan on any longer term, but it is difficult to fit in
fixing it with what I have on my plate at this time.
Thank you for your response.

 

Keep your maximum speed to no more than 60mph, and the only
thing that will suffer is the fuel economy. I spent several months
driving a 240 without O/D, and I generally went 50-55mph to keep
the fuel consumption at about 23mpg. Just remember: the 140 series
cars had essentially the same gearing and no O/D on the automatics.
It was only an option on the standards, and you had to get used to
running the engines at 3500RPM going 55-60...
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Had the same problem - '92 240, 150k. Kept the speed down as already
mentioned. Changed out solenoid as it was entirely corroded, also
changed relay, etc. This did not work. Dealer was about to try
pressure flush but fluid was red and clear and didn't do flush; he was
concerned about 'breaking something' else during flush; drained 3 qts
of fluid and replaced. Still nothing. As previously recommened in this
group, pumping all fluid out and filling at the same time is
alternative to pressure flush. During replacement or radiator my indy
mechanic pumped all trans fluid. Replaced all fluid and OD is now
working normally.

 

Thanks for the responses. From the Groton site, it looks like the
relay is simple enough to pull out and plug back in / replace:by
myself.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/images/3523804.jpg
Getting one soon is a factor, as well as the other potentials. I have
seen this posting:

Expert:Regis J Easler III
Date:12/20/2004
Subject:89 volvo 240 dl overdrive lite

Question
My overdrive light stays on and the tranny will not shift into 4th
gear. I had the catalytic converter replaced recently and some other
emmisions work done the car. This problem happened soon after,
coincidense? I'm trying to sell the car, can the car run like this?

Answer
they may have knocked the connector loose for the overdive solenoid on
the transmission,or it may be a bad overdrive relay.check the wire
under the car on the drivvers side of trans. if this is ok I would
replace the relay

 

Relay should be readily available at a wrecking yard.

 

If they knocked the connector loose the light wouldn't be on on the
dash. The relay is the usual culprit, they're very easy to repair if you
can solder, or you can just replace for about 50 bucks. It's one of
those things that will almost certainly fail on any 240 given time.

 

Don't bother with a used one unless you plan to resolder it yourself,
often just pulling it from the car or otherwise disturbing it will crack
the old solder joints.

 

Well, a thank you for the assistance to all. I did replace all the
fuses with new 16A fuses. I am not perfectly certain if certain
differently rated fuses are better in some spots, I will research that
separately.

The fuses did not resolve it, so I sprang for a Galpin Motors Volvo
OEM overdrive relay switch and the replacement of it seems to be
holding.

It took a while to pull apart the dashboard/glove compartment to find
it, and it was on a spring hook, which I only taped it up after
changing (I did not try to get it back on the clamp thing)., but it
was a big relief to see the damn light go out. I don't plan on ever
pressing that OD button again (levity).

I will pursue what parts would be wise to stock up on with a car that
is almost 20 years old, in anticipation of needing them. On line
prices show $30 plus ship and no tax for the part. Galpin charges $80
with tax, but I could not wait until sometime next week for it to
arrive across country.

Interesting that the on line unit is a "non OEM" "Hella" 3523804. So I
buy a Volvo OEM unit and the one that I take out of the car, and was
what was put in there when the car was assembled….. is a Hella, German
made and not stamped Volvo OEM. HA.

No way to pay a presented invoice for the help and consultation, but
do know that the advice has relieved my burden, it would seem, and
permitted me to take care of an elderly woman who needs the care,
without going crazy without a freeway able car.
Thanks.

Sofar, with 25 minutes of driving , the Relay-to-Solenoid wire has not
acted up. I checked the trans fluid, while under the car - looking for
frayed wires (and finding only metal encasements) - this morning and
it is clear, not cherry colored or brownish. After this strain, I am
going to put in new trans fluid.

Thanks again, much.

 

Only on the ones with stick shifts

 

Actually I see a lot more failed overdrive relays on the ones with
automatics, perhaps because it's used a lot more being normally engaged.

 

I have never experienced an overdrive relay failure on any of my 10
automatics. I don't hear any transmission relays clicking either.

 

I'll bet that the people with high failure rates for the
standard-shift O/D relays don't use the clutch when they engage
the O/D. You don't *have* to do it, but it puts a lot less strain
on all the components, including the relay.
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http://freevision.org/michael/index.html

 

Oh, I'd love to hear the physics behind how that "strains" the relay
since the solenoid will draw the same current whether or not the clutch
is engaged. Should I put the clutch in when starting to save wear and
tear on the ignition switch too?

Bill

 

How can the clutch affect the relay. There is not connection. The only
way it would have any effect is if the OD drew more electric current
when the clutch was not depressed and that doesn't make any sense at all.

 

That's just not true, the relay has no idea whether you've used the
clutch or not, it's part of the electrical circuit, which is isolated
from the hydraulic circuit. Yes it's a good idea to clutch but it makes
absolutely no difference at all on for the electrical bits.

 

From what I recall, you don't keep your cars very long. The relays
usually start to conk out when the car is 12-15 years old at around
160-200K miles.

 

Here's my reasoning: the relay has to engage to power the solenoid.
If the solenoid is working harder, the current draw through the relay
will
be higher, for longer - about twice as long as when you use the clutch.
This is a small thing, but since we're talking about relays that fail
because of cracked solder joints, any extra heat, with attendant
expansion
and contraction, will shorten the relay life. Just because the relay
doesn't
*directly* engage the O/D doesn't mean that the O/D engagement makes no
difference. In fact, someone already mentioned thinking the failure rate
would be higher for automatics, because those relays get more use. More
engagements, or longer ones - both are likely to be contributing to
those
cracked joints.

--







http://freevision.org/michael/index.html

 

But the solenoid doesn't work any harder, all it is is a valve, the
electromagnet coil attracts a metal plunger which slides back and
allows fluid to flow, when power is removed a spring returns the
plunger, blocking the flow of fluid. The fluid pressure is generated by
a cam driven pump on the input side of the overdrive and regulated by a
spring loaded valve. Whether one clutches or not affects how much force
the band brake and cone clutch in the overdrive have to deal with when
they engage, forcing the engine speed and output shaft speed to equalize
to the new ratio, but it won't affect the hydraulic pressure and even if
they did the solenoid is designed so that even a huge increase in
pressure would have a negligible effect on current draw.

I'm the one who said the automatic OD relays may fail more because of
more use, but it's because they're normally powered up and engaged any
time the car is running so they tend to experience more thermal cycles
but even so I doubt the difference is great, it's just based on my
personal observations.