J Sweet: brakes and water pump problems....

Am changing the front disk brakes and the water pump for the first
time on the 92 740 turbo. Actually the brake situation is the result
of replacing the left front strut cartridge.THe strut replacement
went easy! THought it a good idea to replace the pads while the
caliper is off. At first, I put the supplied shims onto the new
pads. However, although I have the piston retracted *all* the way, I
very nearly never could get the caliper on fully, and both bolts back
in. It seems that with the thickness of these new pads, the shims were
just causing a problem making it too thick! I noticed that the pads
were dragging on the rotor making a continuous scraping sound. I
peeled off both shims and put caliper back on. now at least I easily
got both caliper bolts back in, as there is a slight amount of play
now. But the scraping noise from the pads was just as bad. I was
able to reach in with my finger and push the outside pad out a bit,
this lessened the scraping at least from that one, but I can't do the
same trick with finger on the inner one. I had no such problem with
the pads scraping--- either before or after refilling with brake
fluid--- when I did the disc brakes on my Camry....I must be missing
something. Its like there needs to be a spring pushing the pads
outward a little when no pressure is exerted on them by the piston.


Headache #2.... the water pump: Got a new one ready to go in. It
looks like it would be extremely difficult to perhaps impossible to
get it unmounted without taking the pulley off first. But even when
the PS pump is adjusted for a really tight belt, when I try to loosen
the bolts on the pulley, the belt slips/pulley turns. (I sprayed PB
Blaster penetrant on them....have run out of Kroil) It looks like
MAYBE i could get all the 10mm bolts loosened with a u-joint adapter
on the socket, but I am not sure. I'd have to go buy one to find out.
Depends on how extremely torqued down those are. (the timing belt
cover is off allowing access to the bolt on the left side) And when I
do get the pulley bolts off, is it still going to be pressed tight on
the shaft?
Thanks, Geronimo

 

Hard to say without looking at it, but some disc to pad contact is
normal, just drive it around a bit and the new pads will wear down
slightly and should stop rubbing. I don't recall any particular
difficulties but then I've done very few non-Volvo brakes.

Sounds like these got really tight or a bit rusted. You should be able
to get them out by using two 10mm box end wrenches. Just wedge a
screwdriver between the shaft and one of the other bolt heads, or use
two 10mm wrenches on two adjacent bolts and squeeze them together. I've
also had some luck locking stubborn pulleys by wrapping a junk belt
around it and cinching it up with a pair of vice grips. Sometimes a pipe
slipped over a ratchet handle works wonders to provide that extra leverage.

 

James I tried the screwdriver- lock trick on the water pump pulley
bolts, it didn't work. The screwdriver would always slip because the
screws stick out so little (and the shaft too). Found a trick that
did work well! You just jam a 1 in. wood chisel up into the inside of
the pulley hub, going in from above the radiator inlet. it jammed up
against the inner front face of the pulley, into the bolts
protruding on the inside, and locked it up.Then it was easy to get the
bolts out with a box-end.

YOu don't know where I could get a real heavy-duty elect. fan
for this car do you? The shroud got lost long ago, and the original
fan went bad...I robbed the one out of my Camry. It's almost the same
physical size, but I think it is a bit undersized for the bigger turbo
engine in the Volvo....when stopped at a light in hot wather, it tends
to creep up like it might even hit the redline, if I idled long
enough. The old pump really looks OK, now that its out and I could
look inside it. You still had that OD solenoid lying around, perhaps
you got a fan, too?


Geronimo

 

You can get electric fan kits at any autoparts store, I've seen people
install them on 240 Turbos and they work fine. All the Volvos I've dealt
with have mechanical engine driven fans so I don't have any direct
experience with this, or electric fan stuff kicking around. You could
check ont he price of an OEM replacement as well, though I suspect the
cost might be astronomical.

 

Check this link:

http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/fanconversion/

joe