S70 A/C problem (Mike F?)

Discussion in 'Volvo S70' started by Tim.., Jun 28, 2005.

  1. Tim..

    Tim.. Guest

    Mike, fellow Volvo experts.....

    Car is a 98 S70 with manual air conditioning, which today was re-gassed as
    it was working but not very well with the compressor cycling every 15-20
    seconds,- probably upon instructions from the low pressure switch.

    470 grammes was sucked out and the correct 750grammes (sticker on wing) was
    put back in with some dye incase of future leaks. I now have chilly air and
    the compressor is behaving as it should. (on the move)

    However, I still have a problem with the radiator fan which is not running
    with the a/c engaged. It does run on slow speed about every 40 seconds for
    less than 1 second at a time. This was present before the re-gas- I assumed
    it was because it was short of gas.

    The condensor is obviously roasting hot when the car is stationary- not
    good.

    I havent done any investigation upon, what appears to be the high pressure
    switch down by the charge point by the PAS pump, which I assume instructs
    the fan to run.

    I am aware that the ECU controls the fan, via the 2 speed relay, and not the
    HP switch directly, but my Haynes BOL wiring diagrams do not show how the
    a/c system interacts with the ECU, apart from their being 4 connections from
    the ''air-cond.'' to the ECU. (possibly 2 from H and L pressure switches??)

    Any pointers??

    Tim..
     
    Tim.., Jun 28, 2005
    #1
  2. Tim..

    Mike F Guest

    The high pressure switch is a pressure sensitive potentiometer that
    reports the A/C high pressure to the fuel ECU. Based on that signal (as
    well as engine temperature information and other things) the ECU
    "decides" whether the fan should be off, on low speed or on high speed.
    Also the ECU actually turns the A/C on as well - the climate control
    panel sends a "request" to the ECU for A/C when you turn the system on.
    If the engine temperature is too high, the A/C won't come on. The ECU
    grounds the control wires at the relay to turn the fan on high or low
    speed.

    Pull the 2 pin connector with the small wires off the fan relay. Ground
    one of the relay pins, and see what the fan does. Ground the other, the
    fan should start on the "other" speed. High speed sends power down the
    red wire to the fan, low speed uses the green wire. In any case the
    black wire is grounded. I believe the relay is wired in such a way as
    only one of the red or green wires gets power at any one time.

    --
    Mike F.
    Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

    Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
    (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
     
    Mike F, Jun 29, 2005
    #2
  3. Tim..

    Tim.. Guest

    Mike,
    Cheers for all of that.

    Investigation has revealled all you say above- the a/c pressure sensor is
    registering about 1v with the a/c idle, rising to about 4v after running for
    abit. All good.

    Grounding pins on the fan controller results in low speed fan activity or
    full speed. All good.

    Leaving the engine at idle for a while eventually brings on the full speed,
    by which time things are pretty cooking.

    However, the ECU does not seem capable of calling for low speed fan at all
    (a/c running or not) it is not grounding pin 1 of the fan controller to run
    the fan on slow.

    I am thinking- either i have a broken wire, or the ECU is faulty.

    I have not yet investigated continuity along the wire due to the need to cut
    the ECU cover off in order to remove it to gain access to the multiplug at
    the base of the ecu box.

    Perhaps the best next stage would be to have a Scanner plugged in to OBD and
    request the ecu runs the fan- this will check the ecu and the wiring at the
    same time???

    Hope I am not missing anything??

    Many thanks
    Tim..
     
    Tim.., Jun 29, 2005
    #3
  4. Tim..

    Tim.. Guest

    Well to cut a long story short, the problem was two fold.

    Firstly the low-speed fan resistor was open circuit- this became apparent
    when I bypassed the relay and tried the fan direct from the battery.
    Nothing.

    However the ECU was still not switching the low speed side of the relay,
    working fan or not, so I thought I had an ECU fault. ATP tested it and
    pronounced it fine. Hmmmm I thought..

    Anyhow it turns out that the ECU doesnt / can't switch the relay without a
    load on the circuit it is switching- somehow the relay feeds a signal back
    to the ecu, and with the resistor o/s it wasnt getting this signal...

    For anyone with the same problem a 1 ohm 200w resistor is the baby you want
    to replace the factory one, which is part and parcel of the fan- Volvo want
    to sell you a complete fan and motor and resistor. This gives the fan about
    7v and can be zip tied to the fan cowl in place of the broken one.

    Tim..
     
    Tim.., Jul 11, 2005
    #4
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