Volvo XC70 2006

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/testing/ncap/

http://www.iihs.org/

Rick

 

I am very close to buy this car and in the process of making decision.
Couple questions:
- are there any crash-test results available ?
- how does the AWD system really work in XC70, especially comapring to cars
like Audi or Subaru ?
Finally, although it may sounds foolish, what do you guys think about XC70
2006 ?


Thank you,
Marek.

 

Yes, it got the highest crash test ratings.
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/testing/ncap/Index2.cfm

It is the Haldex system and is electronic, not viscous. Not sure about
the others.

I have a '01 XC70 and love it. It has undergone some minor improvements
since then.

 

Swedish insurance company Folksam grades the V70 30 % better then the
average car (in Sweden) in actual crashes.

 

AWD is greatly improved over the original versions in earliest XCs. Uneven
tyre tread wear no longer upsets it.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).

 

Well, I have an '03 XC70 and to be very truthful with you, it is my
first and LAST AWD vehicle. Too finicky with tire sizes. That viscous
drive is a $3000,00 item to replace. I would spend your money (A little
joke there) on a heavily upgraded regular FWD. Parenthetically, I HATE
Nivomats. Stay away from certain options, like the Auto Rain
detector...NIGHTmare!!! The ground clearance is nice, but my idea of
offroading is pulling off of The Strip and into Spago.

 

That is a fresh approach that might indeed chnage my direction.
Our FWD candidate is Acura TL. Amazing car and saves some $ comparing to
Volvo.
Thank a lot.


"........................................................"

 

Are you right informed? Isnt your Volvo equipped with the Haldex system
instead of the older visco drive system?

/aw

 

Sure, if I'm informed correctly, I have the Haldex unit. BUT, my owners
manual still state to replace tires in pairs and to rotate tires in the
REALLY old fashioned front to back method. That is stated in BOLD type
in the manual.
As of about 20 years ago, the current knowlege of radial ply tires is
that they do not need to be rotated front-to-back. They may be "X"
rotated. The old thinking about front to back, and rotating in the same
direction came to bear when Pirelli was still using cotton ply's during
the late 1940's.
The Haldex unit "MIGHT" be a little less vulnerable to differing tire
sizes and pressures, but I still wouldn't buy another AWD Volvo...under
ANY circumstances...unless some Arabs were holding a knife to my neck...

 

"........................................................"

I think this is stated in any volvo owners manual regardless of model and
year or transmission type.

What is the idea of "X" rotate tires?
Some tires have threads that is meant for only one direction.

About the AWD system (AOC) on the XC70 2003 it is stated in VADIS that
"The system is not sensitive to differences between tyres (when driving with
a spare wheel for example)"

Regards

Per Hauge

 

True, there is no need to rotate the tyres if you have a Volvo with a
Haldex system.

I would still recommend to either rotate or to put the most worn tyres
at the front. That is not because of any driveline wear problem though,
it is simply the that the car handling will be the safest this way.

/Staffan

 

An AWD car is still FWD most of the time. Especially with Haldex, it is
completely FWD until the Haldex system senses some slippage. As most
everyone knows, FWD cars wear out the front times much faster than the
rear and AWD is no exception. The safest combination is for all 4 tires
to have the same tread. The only way to achieve this is to rotate often.

 

AWD just means "full time 4WD" generally with no hi-lo range transfer
case. It doesn't imply what are the primary driving wheels, although new
Volvos are in fact primarily front-wheel-driven (R-models may be
different).

Subaru AWD models are 50/50 front/rear torque split all the time. AWD
Chryslers and Dodges are rear-wheel-driven until the rear end slips.
Depends on the system design and engine orientation more than anything
else.

-Andrew

 

Marek, the AWD works great when you need it. I have been in the NC and
PA mountains during snow storms and hazardous driving conditions and my
2001 XC drives great. I don't know about the 2006 but I do know I will
never buy another Volvo. I have owned two Volvos over the past 13
years. I purchased them new and it seems that every time you take them
in for service it is $800-$1000. I just took my XC in last month for a
small oil leak and to repair that issues and two or three other
problems the shop found cost me $900. The car is paid for and I don't
want to but I may end up selling it and buying a Honda Pilot. I love
my XC and have 109K miles on it but I will end up putting 3K a year
into it to keep it running well. Honda's just don't require that level
of up-keep. Get the Consumer Reports new car report on the XC before
you purchase. Good luck!!

 

WRONG. Subarus are 80& FWD and 20% RWD until slippage occurs. Then the
RWD percentage goes up. Some may vary, but my Subaru Legacy was 80/20.
Torque steer was a major problem. May my Subaru Legacy rest in peace,
or many rusty pieces.

AWD is not 4WD. 4WD is doesn't use viscous or Haldex coupling. AWD
transfers power to the axle with the most traction when slippage occurs
but not before.

Off roaders don't like AWD because it is basically 2WD, it just shifts
which axle is getting the power. 4WD is full time and rotates both
axles at the same velocity.

 

I stand corrected.

Subaru uses 3 different AWD systems.

Continuous AWD: Subaru manual transmissions use Continuous AWD, normally
50/50 front-to-back power split and use a mechanical viscous center
differential to to vary the power split when there is a loss of traction.

Active AWD: Subaru's automatic transmission use Active AWD, mostly front
wheel drive and uses traction sensing computer input to electronically
vary the front to rear power split via a hydraulic multi-plate transfer
clutch. This is what my Legacy had except it was viscous.

VTD AWD (variable torque distribution). New in 2001, VTD transfers
powers front to back electronically. The power split is 45/55 front/rear
and the rear wheel bias is designed for a more luxury car feel as
opposed to the front bias of the Active AWD system. Usually 45/55 front
to back split but that varies according to wheel slippage.

Apparently before they came up with the VTD system, they realized that
torque steer is not very pleasant.

 

My 03 XC just went out of warranty, and guess what? On my trip into the
dealer, they found that my rear suspension had a degree too much
negative camber. Surprise! You know...it's astonishing how volvo builds
a car with no suspension adjustment. When they took me into the svc.
dept and showed the results of the "laser" check, I almost exploded
right there on the spot. The alignment guy said nonchalantly that
"something might be bent". SHIT!!! You can't even adjust the camber
from the top of the strut-towers like on older Volvos. I've had Volvos
since 1967 (A 123 G.T.) but this is definitely my last one! Two of the
agents in my office have optioned-out Crown Victorias that are both a
few years old, each with over 250K, and except for normal maintenance,
nothing has gone wrong. Last Summer, my A.C. went out twice. My C.V.
joints on the left side are beginning to make a creaking noise, my front
camber is not adjustable, my sunroof has had to have adjustments twice
and I never use the damned thing, my glovebox door is rattling and I
hardly ever use it, it's as inconvenient as hell to change the cabin
filter...Oh, by the way, concerning the cabin filter, I had to rent a
car for five days when this XC was in for service and I got a Dodge
Something (Stratus? I can't remember), and I read the manual and all you
have to do to change the cabin filter is to depress the tab on the glove
compartment door to make the door drop down all the way, lift a flap and
remove the old filter...NOT a $75.00 job at the dealer like with a
Volvo, and if you do it yourself, you don't have to get on your knees on
the ground to change it. Every day I have to pull up on the driver's
window button because the glass keeps working it's way down. I might
even be overstating it when I say that I probably put my window down
twice a month. Yesterday, my alarm went ass-over-teacups as the lights
wouldn't stop flashing. My engine mount stabilizer bracket is toast. The
cheap plastic cover that covers the bolt on the windshield wiper arm
snapped off and flew by the car while I was on the freeway last week.
The body-colored door trim on the right front just fell off. I'm going
in for the clips today...that is if you can install them from the
OUTside of the door. Probably not. Now I'm getting this message that the
Location bulb is burned out, and it isn't.

BUT LOOK AT THE BRIGHT SIDE....

Eat your hearts out, all of you Lexus and Infinity drivers...
MY radiator has prem-air!!!

 

They uses shims to do the adjustment and have for a while. Hence
adjustment is seldom necessary. Most other better makes do this also.

I love my '01 V70 XC, not problems.

 

Some lenses have two bulbs. I have the message that a locations lamp is
burned out and it is because one of the two lamps in the left tail lamp
is burned out. You have to look twice to notice it. If all bulbs are
burning, then you have a filament mismatch. If you read the manual, you
are supposed to change bulbs in pairs to prevent this.

 

Yeah, I was talking about the continuous and VDC/VTD systems. Unless it
was a hybrid or my left foot got chopped off, I'd never own an automatic
car, so the 80/20 system is of no consequence to me (I forgot it even
existed). I think Subaru is actually getting rid of the 80/20 system with
automatics and moving everything towards VDC/VTD.

-Andrew