Wiring harness: Continued...

  • Thread starter Thread starter clay
  • Start date Start date
C

clay

The wire that runs from the computer to lug #1 on the coil and over to
the knock generator (Chrysler ignition box) is coaxial or shielded.
Must be a signal wire of some sort.
The insulation and shielding is busted in one spot so I can see the
inner insulation. Easy enough to patch.
The wire is toasted and stiff in a couple spots. It's probably still
good since the motor was running... Replacing it is a better option.
What's the trick to replacing this wire?
Splice it just like an antenna wire?
Replace it with electrical wire?
 
clay said:
The wire that runs from the computer to lug #1 on the coil and over to
the knock generator (Chrysler ignition box) is coaxial or shielded.
Must be a signal wire of some sort.
The insulation and shielding is busted in one spot so I can see the
inner insulation. Easy enough to patch.
The wire is toasted and stiff in a couple spots. It's probably still
good since the motor was running... Replacing it is a better option.
What's the trick to replacing this wire?
Splice it just like an antenna wire?
Replace it with electrical wire?


You definitely want to keep it shielded wire. I don't know offhand what
type of shielded wire it is, there's impedance to deal with when working
with high frequency stuff. You might try a piece of shielded audio
cable, or scrounge some wire from the ICU to ignition amplifier on a
LH-2.4 equipped Volvo, IIRC those started in '88. Knock sensor wire may
work as well, I really don't know how critical it is, but I suspect the
shielding is just for noise suppression so audio cable is probably a
good bet.
 
James said:
You definitely want to keep it shielded wire. I don't know offhand what
type of shielded wire it is, there's impedance to deal with when working
with high frequency stuff. You might try a piece of shielded audio
cable, or scrounge some wire from the ICU to ignition amplifier on a
LH-2.4 equipped Volvo, IIRC those started in '88. Knock sensor wire may
work as well, I really don't know how critical it is, but I suspect the
shielding is just for noise suppression so audio cable is probably a
good bet.

I'm going to run it as is for now. Easy enough to replace if it becomes
necessary.
I found some huge shrink tubing that will clear the big connector.
Doesn't shrink up tight so it ends up looking much like the original
harness wrap. Lovely shade of green too.

The connector on the firewall has seven wires/pins in it. The connector
on the harness only had five wires... as far as I can tell. It was a
crumbled mess and half the pins fell out.
I identified the five wires in the harness that went to the plug and
there were no extra, unaccounted for wires in the harness.
Does this sound right that only five of the seven pins are used on that
connector?
 
I'm going to run it as is for now. Easy enough to replace if it becomes
necessary.
I found some huge shrink tubing that will clear the big connector.
Doesn't shrink up tight so it ends up looking much like the original
harness wrap. Lovely shade of green too.

The connector on the firewall has seven wires/pins in it. The connector
on the harness only had five wires... as far as I can tell. It was a
crumbled mess and half the pins fell out.
I identified the five wires in the harness that went to the plug and
there were no extra, unaccounted for wires in the harness.
Does this sound right that only five of the seven pins are used on that
connector?


What I did was slip on the heatshrink and scrunch it up so I didn't have
to worry about getting it over the connectors. Yeah it's common for
connectors to have unused pins, if you have a Haynes or Bentley manual
the schematic ought to be in there.
 
James said:
What I did was slip on the heatshrink and scrunch it up so I didn't have
to worry about getting it over the connectors. Yeah it's common for
connectors to have unused pins, if you have a Haynes or Bentley manual
the schematic ought to be in there.

I'll study the Haynes manual a bit more. The schematics are pretty
generic in it. It may show me what the other three pins do...

Sometimes I wonder if manual writers ever look at the actual vehicle.
 
I'll study the Haynes manual a bit more. The schematics are pretty
generic in it. It may show me what the other three pins do...

Sometimes I wonder if manual writers ever look at the actual vehicle.
What year is this & what are you looking for I can make a copy of the
page right from the wire diagram book this might be of help to you ?
Glenn K
Volvo Certified Technician 2009
ASE Certified Technician 2009
 
Glenn said:
What year is this & what are you looking for I can make a copy of the
page right from the wire diagram book this might be of help to you ?
Glenn K
Volvo Certified Technician 2009
ASE Certified Technician 2009

'83 245 B23F Automatic.

Do you still have my fax number?

Thanks!
Clay
 
'83 245 B23F Automatic.

Do you still have my fax number?

Thanks!
Clay

tell me if you find a plastic part for an '83, but you can rebuild
connectors any which way from Sunday. there is an interesting place to
find info ~~ Volvo. specifically the parts dept. @ your local dealer.
the last time i went (i needed to find out how to wire a part to do a
performance upgrade ~ not standard) after a discussion of luthiers for
a 5 string bass, i walked out w/ 30+ pages of wiring diagrams &
schematics.
 
Richard said:
tell me if you find a plastic part for an '83, but you can rebuild
connectors any which way from Sunday. there is an interesting place to
find info ~~ Volvo. specifically the parts dept. @ your local dealer.
the last time i went (i needed to find out how to wire a part to do a
performance upgrade ~ not standard) after a discussion of luthiers for
a 5 string bass, i walked out w/ 30+ pages of wiring diagrams &
schematics.

I found a simple solution to replacing the firewall connector on a
'rebuilding the harness' web page.
Trailer wiring plug.
I'm only using five wires so a five wire plug fits the bill.
It's all back together. Installation starts tonight.
 
Back
Top